MG L-Mini II review

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tomacco said:
I knew the l mini 2 wasn't going to knock my cocks off (as far as output), but I feel that something is wrong with the one I got.

Does anyone else have the same problem?
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jahxman said:
No, I have a Q5 and an R2 and both are just as bright as my comparable lights on High.
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Same here.

These two are my best all-around lights. I keep the Q5 with turbo head at home and the R2 with regular head is my EDC.

I recall reading that the R2 version would have longer runtime. Is that confirmed?
 
I'd like to comment on the issue of thread quality. My L-Mini I saw a year of hard use and I changed the battery almost daily. That means the the tail cap was on and off at least 300 times. That's 600 incidents of thread travel. The threads are still in great shape. No problems whatsoever. I sure hope the L-Mini stays the same. Aside from new improved emitters and/or drivers (when they become available), there's not a thing I would change on this light.
 
smegs said:
I'd like to comment on the issue of thread quality. My L-Mini I saw a year of hard use and I changed the battery almost daily. That means the the tail cap was on and off at least 300 times. That's 600 incidents of thread travel. The threads are still in great shape. No problems whatsoever. I sure hope the L-Mini stays the same. Aside from new improved emitters and/or drivers (when they become available), there's not a thing I would change on this light.
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Good to hear. While better (square shoulder) threads would be nice to have, it sounds like the existing threads are adequate. Great light!
 
Hi Guys,

I've just come back from my holiday in the States and was wondering if i should buy an L Mini R2 to match my Q5 version?

Jessica
 
DHart said:
You won't gain significant utility adding the R2 to the Q5... if I were you I'd add the Q3 warm version... the warm tint is wonderful!
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The R2 seems, to my naked eye, a tad brighter then the Q5, but if there is a difference, its very subtle.

Also consider that the new Q3 warm version has a new design that doesn't let you use the turbo head. Pill seems to be inside the head now.
 
Has there been any lux readings comparing the R2 and the Q3?

I believe I read the Q3 is rated 200 lumens and the R2 is 250 but I would like to see lux readings on high.

I gotta have one of these 18650 powered EDC lights just not sure which one yet.
 
jhc37013 said:
Has there been any lux readings comparing the R2 and the Q3?

I believe I read the Q3 is rated 200 lumens and the R2 is 250 but I would like to see lux readings on high.

I gotta have one of these 18650 powered EDC lights just not sure which one yet.
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Only place I have seen numbers is http://light-reviews.com/l-mini_2/. That is the Q5 version. Expect the Q3 to be slightly dimmer.

I didn't get this light for the lumens, though. What really hooked me was the form factor, runtime on low, convenience of 18650 batts. EDC written all over it... 😀

I keep an R2 version in my backpack or briefcase 24/7, and at home I leave the Q5 version with the turbo head. With the turbo head installed, the form factor is even better imo (not so EDC friendly, though).

Have also a Q3 version on its way. New version was just an excuse to get another of these awesome lights. I don't really have a preference for warm tint.
 
I went ahead and ordered the R2 if I like the UI and beam pattern I will order a Q3.

The two things I like about the light is the 18650 battery and the fact you don't have to twist the head to get to high (turbo). If I had one thing to complain about with my PD30 is I grow tired of twisting head to turbo. Thats the only complaint though.
 
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HI

I'm looking for beamshots of the Q3 version :twothumbs
I want to see the difference beetweet the Q3 version
and the R2 version... I hope the Q3 version has
a nice tint 😉
 
PLI said:
HI I'm looking for beamshots of the Q3 version. I want to see the difference beetweet the Q3 version and the R2 version... I hope the Q3 version has a nice tint 😉
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I think I may have posted this earlier in the thread, but if not, here it is. And if so, here it is again:😉

BeamshotsGroup.jpg
 
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Got an R2 today it came very quickly and nothing fancy just a light in a holster and a baggy with o-rings and lanyard all in padded envelope.

No imperfections everything seems great quality can't wait until dark.
 
I have only had about 5 mins. outside time with it so far will get some more later. First impression is a really good one. The tailcap design is the best I've seen yet, love the recess for the boot and the whole for the lanyard is really awsome, why knowone else has done that is beyond me.

Output is great not sure its 250 lumens but its somewhere around there maybe 230-240. Compared to my PD30 not as much throw but really close. As for flood/spill the Mini has a larger spill area and I think it may in fact even be slightly brighter than the PD30.Tint is nice very neutral maybe a bit on the cool side. Its truly a nice EDC light.

The only complaint I have is the reflector, mine has a few lumps and one scratch. Also it doesnt seem to be well polished, I don't think any of this affect's performance though. This is a near perfect EDC light.

I'm not a big fan of the holsters that have a flip up top I like the quick draw holsters that Fenix use to use, anyway the P3D holster fit's the Mini perfect
 
Has anyone tested the voltage protection of L-mini 2 on unprotected 18650?

My 5C-Q3 version shuts off when my TF 2500mAh drops to 3.00v (open voltage). However, in my spear clone with L-mini 2 driver, another cell (they are of the same pair) was at 2.62v 😳 when the light cut off. I understand that some batteries have protection circuits kick in around 2.4-2.5V so 2.62 isn't dangerously low, but I expected the circuits to shut down at 2.8v :shrug:. Note that both batteries then recharged and have been functioning as normal since then.
 
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dudu84 said:
Has anyone tested the voltage protection of L-mini 2 on unprotected 18650?

My 5C-Q3 version shuts off when my TF 2500mAh drops to 3.00v (open voltage). However, in my spear clone with L-mini 2 driver, another cell (they are of the same pair) was at 2.62v 😳 when the light cut off. I understand that some batteries have protection circuits kick in around 2.4-2.5V so 2.62 isn't dangerously low, but I expected the circuits to shut down at 2.8v :shrug:
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I believe I read somewhere in this link at the marketplace about that, not sure which page though.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=194446
 
Are these readings without load? I think that the general consensus is that 3.6V without load is a "depleted" cell. 3 V without load means that the cell is overdischarged.

If you are not using unprotected cells in both, than it is likely that the protection circuit in one or both of the cells themselves is tripping.
 
Mjolnir said:
Are these readings without load? I think that the general consensus is that 3.6V without load is a "depleted" cell. 3 V without load means that the cell is overdischarged.

If you are not using unprotected cells in both, than it is likely that the protection circuit in one or both of the cells themselves is tripping.
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Yep they are without load voltage as I have no equipment to measure under-load v.
Both batteries are unprotected and normally I don't do deep discharges like this but this was for break-in charges :]

EDIT:I just tested my Spear clone that has LM2 driver with some CR123 primaries; I used 1 cell with 1 dummy.

Results:
WF cr123@ 2.71v without load: Light has rapid blink, but doesn't shutdown automatically, can not change mode (batteries from DX, only suitable for low current)
WF cr123@ 2.97v without load: Light works on Lo, can not go to Mid or Hi modes.
Panasonic cr123@ 3.1v without load: Light works on Lo and Mid, can not go to Hi

As I can't measure the under-load voltage, I don't know if these results were of any use.
 
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