MG L-Mini II review

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I haven't had any issues with cross threading. However, the threads don't engage with the tailcap until after the tailcap passes over the upper O-ring, which is different from the other lights I have. For some reason, this actually makes it harder to cross thread the tailcap, so it is even less of a problem.
 
Mjolnir said:
I haven't had any issues with cross threading. However, the threads don't engage with the tailcap until after the tailcap passes over the upper O-ring, which is different from the other lights I have. For some reason, this actually makes it harder to cross thread the tailcap, so it is even less of a problem.
Click to expand...

As I use my L-Mini II nightly, I open the tube every other day to top off the 18650... over time, that's a lot of thread activity. I haven't had any problems with cross threading either... and I don't expect to have any as I'm careful to avoid that. But it can happen to those who may be hasty or less than careful in threading tailcaps and heads. Large, square-cut threads make cross threading less likely to happen, that's all... I'm happy to have the light with fine threads or large square-cut ones, just prefer square.
 
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Some longer distance beam shots.

Using AW's Black Protected 18650 freshly charged.


L-Mini Turbo Head @ 40" or 12.19 meters

LMPL1003Small.jpg


L-Mini Turbo Head @ 146' or 44.5 meters

LMPL1001Small.jpg


L-Mini Turbo Head @ 210' or 64 meters

LMPL1002Small.jpg
 
My beamshots of the turbo head:

Regular head on left, turbo head on right.

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I think the red in those shots distracts from the actual beam pattern, so it is sort of hard to get a sense of the difference. Is there any way you could post the pictures without the red over the overexposed area?
 
I decided to color the overexposed zones of my beamshots in red because I'm sick of seeing to many nonense saturated beamshots and false comments to them.
When the color of one pixel of a picture reach the pure white, it remains white even if the light increases ever and ever, and no comparison is possible any longer, but many people seems to misunderstand this.
The red coloring is the only mean I found to force everybody to try to understand this problem, and I like better somebody who dislike this red color than somebody who makes a false judgment on a flashlight power only because of nonsense saturated beamshots.
Off course, I could have chosen a camera setting that does not saturate the pictures, but the spill would have never been visible wich such dark setting.
 
DHart,
I just spoke with the manufacturer regarding the square threads. Here is the what he said. To make the square threads, the L-mini II body tube has to be made thicker, that means L-mini II is going to be more chubby. This is not ideal since the whole purpose of L-mini is the super compact size.
An alternative way to keep the same size body but with square threads is by moving the pill into the light's head. This is doable, but you would lose the option of using the turbo head. :mecry:

Black Rose,
Thanks again for your support! 😀
 
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Bryan... thanks for looking into that! As it is, the fine threads really aren't a big deal. If that's the worst thing someone can find about the light, then it's definitely a great light! I can certainly live happily with the L-Mini II as it is. It's a great light.
 
I don't expect my light to arrive until Friday so I can't see it myself, but how do the threads compare to those on the Gerber Infinity Ultra?

The GIU has very thin threads.
 
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Almost dead on. The top of the mini looks to have some tapper like a pipe.
 
Black Rose,
L-mini II's threads are actually similar to all the ITP lights in thickness, but I never heard a single customer complaint about the threads of ITP.

L-mini II's actual Vi is up to 6V, so it is actually okay to use 2 x CR123A primaries, but due to the high voltage, it will creates excess heat. Thus, it is strongly not recommended to use them, unless you only going run in medium and low mode. Officially L-mini II only supports 18650/17670, so if you burn your driver due to using CR123A, don't blame me for it.
nana.gif
I certainly won't honor the warranty on that. FYI, I tested mine with 2 brand new Rayovac CR123A primaries, each measured 3.24V.
 
Lermite said:
I decided to color the overexposed zones of my beamshots in red because I'm sick of seeing to many nonense saturated beamshots and false comments to them.
When the color of one pixel of a picture reach the pure white, it remains white even if the light increases ever and ever, and no comparison is possible any longer, but many people seems to misunderstand this.
The red coloring is the only mean I found to force everybody to try to understand this problem, and I like better somebody who dislike this red color than somebody who makes a false judgment on a flashlight power only because of nonsense saturated beamshots.
Off course, I could have chosen a camera setting that does not saturate the pictures, but the spill would have never been visible wich such dark setting.
Click to expand...
I realize what overexposure is, and how it can be misleading. However, I was talking about the pictures purely from a beam pattern standpoint. To me, the red center in one of the pictures makes it difficult to compare their beam patterns (like the size of the hotspots). I don't really care about the apparent brightness, since it is nearly impossible to make the picture portray the true brightness of the light to the human eye. I am just interested in how much smaller the hotspot is with the turbo head.
 
Yeah... to me the red dot really distracts much more than just a white-out center would. I would recommend omitting the red spot.

That said, one can still see that the turbo head gives a more intense and slightly smaller central beam as well as a narrower, more sharp-edged (though still very bright) spill beam. The beam shots do show that the turbo head is going to definitely give a higher level of illumination to smaller distant areas, i.e. "throw".
 
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I didn't test it at a big depth but i left it working for a few minutes like this and no water went in:

L-Mini_II_plouf_IMG9885.jpg
 
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