MG PLI MC-E *review + beamshots*

[lightbug]

Stealth,
If the light flickers, it is most likely caused by the retaining ring or the steel ring under the switch. Please clean the threads, and tighten the retaining ring and the problem should go away. If the problem still there, than replace the steel ring with the thicker one that comes in accessory bag. Email me if this doesn't solve your problem. ([email protected]).

 

[Stealth]

Stealth,
If the light flickers, it is most likely caused by the retaining ring or the steel ring under the switch. Please clean the threads, and tighten the retaining ring and the problem should go away. If the problem still there, than replace the steel ring with the thicker one that comes in accessory bag. Email me if this doesn't solve your problem. ([email protected]).

I cleaned the threads off with my shirt, but couldnt figure out how to get the ring out or tighten it. Looks like the thread cleaning fixed it, for now. But for future reference how does one remove the ring?

Thanks for your help, Lightbug



TooManyGizmos,
I know I should have articulated my beam observations better, sorry. I meant to say although its flood is intense, there is still a bright and present center, I referred to that as a hotspot .. I'm not sure my terminology was right. The bright center is very large and seems to blend into the flood pretty good, very wide.

There is a slight dark cross in the center as you were talking about. But that (to me) is only noticable when the light is 1 foot or closer to its target, also it basically takes a smooth wall surface to see. For all practical purposes I dont even see it in normal use. I was worried before I got it about the MCE 'black hole', but for me.. it is a non issue for sure, and I think you'd have to be pretty -err- picky to let it bother you. Heck, If I get close enough to a wall with my XPE EagleTac it too will have a dark center. I'd take a PLI Warm over a no 'black hole' PLI.
😉




On a lighter note, I just blasted the closet in time to watch a spider (I had not seen before) drop its ladybug prey. Woops.

 

[KiwiMark]

There is a slight dark cross in the center as you were talking about. But that (to me) is only noticable when the light is 1 foot or closer to its target, also it basically takes a smooth wall surface to see. For all practical purposes I dont even see it in normal use. I was worried before I got it about the MCE 'black hole', but for me.. it is a non issue for sure

This is also my experience with the MG - the darker cross is only visible on a flat white surface when close up, otherwise isn't visible. Totally not an issue at all!

 

[TooManyGizmos]

Thank you for articulating ......... Stealth .

It helps

 

[TooManyGizmos]

Thank you KiwiMark ...... also .

 

[Stealth]

No problem. 😀

I forgot to thank jhc37013 for helping too.

 

[lightbug]

Stealth,
I'm glad to hear the flicker problem is gone. To remove the retaining ring, you can use a pair of tweezers or a plier like the one below.

 

[recDNA]

But now they are not - we have to break them free.

Have to get out the strap wrenches

Oh I see...I had no idea they no longer adjusted. Mine was the last black run and it does adjust. I don't know if I'd mess with breaking it free if it isn't adjustable. Good luck!

 

[Stealth]

t/y again lightbug. I'll try that sometime.
Just curious, have the lubed threads been known to cause a flicker? Seems strange just cleaning them off solved my problem, like it did.



recDNA,
Yeah the new ones (camo) head wont twist, 'the spot' dosent bother me the least so I wont mess with it. From what I read twisting the bezel also decreases your brightness in the center, I think its just about ideal how it is. I don't see a reason to pursue them strap wrenches yet.
😉


Another fun fact: Comes with a spare glow-in-the-dark button! Neat!

Also, this light has the habit of lighting up entire trees from top to bottom, and then also whatever you are looking at.. of course.

Question time: Who exactly makes the MG PLI, its not shiningbeam themselves is it?

 

[recDNA]

t/y again lightbug. I'll try that sometime.
Just curious, have the lubed threads been known to cause a flicker? Seems strange just cleaning them off solved my problem, like it did.



recDNA,
Yeah the new ones (camo) head wont twist, 'the spot' dosent bother me the least so I wont mess with it. From what I read twisting the bezel also decreases your brightness in the center, I think its just about ideal how it is. I don't see a reason to pursue them strap wrenches yet.
😉


Another fun fact: Comes with a spare glow-in-the-dark button! Neat!

Also, this light has the habit of lighting up entire trees from top to bottom, and then also whatever you are looking at.. of course.

Question time: Who exactly makes the MG PLI, its not shiningbeam themselves is it?

Ya, mine has the gitd boot and oring too. I assume Mg makes it. The flashlight company-not the car.

 

[jhc37013]

No problem. 😀

I forgot to thank jhc37013 for helping too.

No problem and like lightbug shows above you can use needle nose pliers or even tweezers to loosen and tighten the retaining ring. The first time I ever needed to tighten one down I was caught without either pliers or tweezers so I took a dinner fork and bent the two middle prongs all the way down flush with the handle and used the other two prongs to reach the two holes in the ring. Sounds stupid but it worked until I got some skinny needle nose pliers.

 

[Yucca Patrol]

How easy is it to completely dissassemble this flashlight. I simply cannot stand the green/black camo but really like the light itself. If it is easy to completely dissassemble, I might be willing to strip the paint/anodizing myself and have a silver colored version.

But having a color option other than camo would be really nice and would certainly boost sales from people like me who just don't want camo.

 

[DArklite]

I got mine last week from Bryan - at first the head didn't want to budge, but after trying to loosen then tightening the head and repeating, it finally broke free in my hands. Using a fine-point Sharpie, I made reference dots on the body and head for re-alignment afterwards. The threads of the body and head are about halfway coated with the camo; I'll have to remove it with the Dremel. The body ends were also oxidized. I fine-filed the body ends; a quick cleanup later with Qtips and alcohol on all mating surfaces removed the remains.
The reflector and lens are held in by a retaining ring with generous-sized detents; same for the tail switch although the retaining has smaller detents. A quick ring re-tightening and O-ring/thread re-lube with MagicLube (teflon) and it was good to go - for now.
That camo has GOT to go though; it can't be good for the heat-sinking and it looks and feels suspiciously like enamel paint and not anodization.
I'll disassemble and wire-wheel it down and hit the tighter areas with the Dremel's wire wheel.

 

[joe1512]

Any word on when more MG PLI's will be in stock? Looks like they are sold out as of today when I checked.

 

[Egsise]

Any word on when more MG PLI's will be in stock? Looks like they are sold out as of today when I checked.

I heard that this was the last batch for now, updated version is coming.

I did some runtime tests with my MG PLI MC-E warm white, tested with 2200mAh 18650 to 50% brightness.
I'll add the graph later.

High, 300 OTF ~50 min
Med, 110 OTF ~3 hours
Low, 40 OTF ~8 hours

Lumen readings are guessimates based on lightbox readings compared to Fenix TK11 R2, Fenix TK20 and Quark AA neutral white with 14500.

There was no difference in brightness between 18650 and 2xCR123.
With 18650 the light gets hot on high even though I used a fan.

 

[sol-leks]

another update?
Any word as to what the new changes will be?

 

[Egsise]

Lumen readings are guessimates based on lightbox readings compared to Fenix TK11 R2, Fenix TK20 and Quark AA neutral white with 14500.

There was no difference in brightness between 18650 and 2xCR123.
With 18650 the light gets hot on high even though I used a fan.

Fenix LD10 Eneloop.........47 Quark AAw 14500......Fenix TK20...................MG PLI warm white

 

[moses]

Is the warm white supposed to put out the same lumens as the regular cooler white?

Thanks

 

[recDNA]

Fenix LD10 Eneloop.........47 Quark AAw 14500......Fenix TK20...................MG PLI warm white

Are these available again? Last time I checked they were all gone.

 

[liketotallyrandom]

Is the warm white supposed to put out the same lumens as the regular cooler white?

Thanks

The 7C's are J bin, and the WC's are K bin. So WC's are a little brighter.