That's the best explanation of heat management I've heard. Thanks Vinh!I am not sure on this. Light would need to be timed to be sure. However adding copper is for sure a positive. Copper draw heat of the LED faster so it doesn't cook itself. The faster the LED cook itself the faster the LED become inefficient and the lumen drop right from the source even with high current still pushing through it; now just creating heat but not lumen. Resistance of heat flow create heat build up. Heat build up create resistance as electrons are now not flowing in a forward path. They spend their time just bouncing around creating frictions thus generate more heat. This is why small wires burn up as the resistance is too high. Electrons bouncing around waiting to squeeze through generate too much heat and it melts the wire. Adding a larger wire and or one made up of a less resitive material such as gold plated wires and the current flow freely. Current reading would be accurate and the expected amount of work for that current flow is again efficient. LED tint shifts as excessive heat builds up. The body of the light is made to hold the heat. The higher capacity and faster rate of heat the body accept is the better for the LED and its electronics. Letting the LED cook itself inefficiently due to bad heat transfer to the body to extend comfortable handling time and step down would be the most terrible solution to design. Some budget lights runs super cool and you wonder why. Take a look at the LED base barely and it touches the body around its edge. So much current is wasted cooking the LED while not generating efficient output. The light is a delight to handle though as there is barely any heat.
In the case of the MH20 I think the heat is monitored on the circuit not on the driver as I don't see a surface mount thermal sensor. TK61vn V4 had a circuit thermal sensor. If this is true then faster rate of heat transfer from the LED to the host has no effect with stepdown.
Circuit thermal sensor protects the driver foremost.
Host mounted thermal sensor protects the LED foremost.
I'm probably not interested in one, but just curious about the scratches. Is this light glued or assembled some specific way that makes it harder to open? Couldn't some type of rubber protector be used in a vice or pliers...or however it is done?