Micro - 2800mA - 5V~28V (Driver upgradeable to 3000mA)

JoelSim

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Hi folks,

Well I think I am done with the KD SSC P7 drivers I've been playing with too many weird results (maybe it's me, maybe it's them...I don't know).

So......

Has anyone used these?

http://pcb-components.de/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=garden_flypage.tpl&product_id=95&category_id=6&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=64&vmcchk=1&Itemid=64


They say they can upgrade it to output 3000mA which sounds good to me as I am only running a single XML. Bit more costly than the KD option, but kinda wonder if that translates to reliable too!?!?

Any other suggestions are of course welcome.

Using a 11.1v 5000maH lipo, in case that makes much difference to any possible suggestions.

Cheers, Joel.


 
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arek98

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I don't have an experience with this particular driver but it looks like a good one.

You may look at taskled drivers. They are very reliable and George provides outstanding service. He will ship internationaly for reasonable fee. Look at H6CC or H6Flex. They both can go above 6A. H6Flex has microprocessor on it and extra features (voltage monitoring, temperature cut-off, and different output levels, it works with prolonged piezo switches for diving application, or you can get reed switch or HALLSW board to operate it with magnet). H6CC is simple driver, it may be dimmed (within range set by on-board trimmer) with external pot. You could also use couple of reed switches and resisitors to implement few set levels.
Looks like George is releasing new wersion of b3Flex (it was b2Flex before) that can go up to 3A, so if it is available it will be good for XM-L as well. As Flex driver it has the same features as H6Flex.
 

betti154

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I have 1 ampere @9A for 4 months ...work great other two in build-in phase . I have realized that buying drivers is cheaper than build my own :ohgeez:

Great to hear, thanks. I've got a pair of these coming as I could get 9A vs 6.6A with h6flex.
 

JoelSim

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@ arek98:

Yeah thanks for that. I had been checking out TaskLED. Decided the h6Flex is overkill and the other day I saw that the b3Flex was on it's way but still wasn't available. Just tried to look again now but it seems their site is down just at this moment.


I have 1 ampere @9A for 4 months ...work great other two in build-in phase . I have realized that buying drivers is cheaper than build my own :ohgeez:

Good to hear Lucca. Since I found the link to their page via your 'Sticky' at the top of this forum I thought you may have had some experience with them :)

I emailed them yesterday and asked about the 3000mA upgrade and the response was that they only send them upgraded to 3000mA for orders over 10 pieces. This is a bit excessive for my needs. Not too mention that if I ordered 10 I would get taxed an extra 25% on their arrival into Norway, just due to the total price :thumbsdow

Although it does say this in the user manual for the driver:

"Increase the output current to 3A (Micro 2800 version):
In order to increase the current e.g. for the Cree XM‐L to 3 amps, solder a second resistor (1 ohm) in
parallel to the existing.
The resistor should be either “1206” SMD size or if necessary, “0805” or “1210”. You get the needed
resistor on request free of charge to your order from us."

Now that doesn't sound like the worst option. Although I have no idea as to how I should "solder a second resistor (1 ohm) in parallel to the existing."

The user manual is actually very good though, with clear diagrams and good info. It's just that I don't fully understand how to do the said modification. If anyone has some tips they would be greatly appreciated. With the right directions I am confident I can get the job done.

User manual:

http://pcb-components.de/anleitungen/MicroV1_E.pdf

Cheers,
Joel.
 

lucca brassi

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You can get them single from www.eBay.de. Look on ''Konstantstromquelle'' price is 1€ higher . I have only 9A versions


Now that doesn't sound like the worst option. Although I have no idea as to how I should "solder a second resistor (1 ohm) in parallel to the existing."

It is very simple . This is so called ''shunt resistor '' where uC measures drop of tension through led (buish colour). It is always wired in series with led.

So you have to buy (oh i see now you get it free ) some SMD resistor with size ''“0805” or “1210”. which is size equal to existed resistor.( You can also solder normal resistor (''through hole ''with wires on both sides )but it would not look nice :sssh:

Simple way is to put on resistor on PCB (page 5 on manual )very small drop of some cyanoacryl glue ( if you fast in soldering you don't need to do that) and than put your resistor paralell on it (same orientation ), wait some seconds and then fast solder with thin 0,5-0,8mm soldering wire both sides.

Now you get resistance from 1 Ohm on both in paralell with 0,5 Ohm ( and double power through them )
 
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JoelSim

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Thanks for your response Lucca. Good info once again. Much appreciated.


My next question is regarding the 'parallel' bit....
Would this mean solering beside but touching or piggy-backing it on top of the existing one or something completley different?

Joel.
 

JoelSim

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''piggy-backing'' would be right term :)

Hehe...don't know if it's the right term but it's what I could come up with, lol.

So...one on top of the other in simple terms!?!?

I might just go ahead and order one then and get this ball rolling once more.

Thanks again. :thumbsup:
 

JoelSim

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Although I have just received another e-mail from Tobias @ pcb Components and he has said that if I am not confident doing it that he would do it for me.

Very nice of him.

Joel.
 
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