MillerMod Arc AAA 2-Level Head

Codeman

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 26, 2004
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2,690
MillerMod Arc AAA 2-Level Heads (Lux III TXOH and Cree Q4 WH)

NOTE: Due to a mistake I made on my PP order, the photos posted earlier actually depicted the 30mA/1.0W head. Now that I have the 30mA/1.5W head, I've updated this post with new pictures. Thanks for the fix, MillerMod!

Considering the build, size, output, and price, the Arc AAA Premium is a great light. Ever since I got a couple of them last year, it's been one of my favorite lights around the house. But I've got a streak of Tim Allen "More Power" disease, so I couldn't resist the 1.5W with the parabolic, polished reflector. Throw in 2 levels, and the well-spent money left my wallet before I knew what hit me.

Almost from the moment I opened the package, I knew I'd have to do a review of this marvelous mod.

This MillerMod is a 30mA low, 1.5W high TXOH, built on an original Arc head with a polished, parabolic reflector.

These are very rough images that I took in my office under normal lighting. Not exactly ideal conditions, but what the heck. Exposure was locked on the ArcP/MM/High, at the spot, so they are a bit underexposed. Overall, they are much brighter in real life in a dark environment, but the relative brightness between the pictures is reasonably accurate, as is the color.

I've put the Arc Premium's stock head on one of the older Arc black AAA bodies (on right):
200610035200933arcpmmarcstocksidebysidewebtk0.jpg

The old-style Arc head that MillerMod used as a host is a near perfect color match for the new Arc AAA body. The body is slightly grayer, or less green, but you really have to look closely, in person, to see it. It isn't visible in this photo. This has nothing to do with MillerMod's work, though, so let's move on to the real pictures.

The stock Arc has a brand new Duracell Ultra cell in it, while the MM has a Duracell 1000mAh cell in it.

Arc AAA Premium Stock Head
200610035200929p13arcstockwebol6.jpg

For a single level task light, I really like the output of the premium stock head.

For a 2-level task light, though, I wanted a bit less output on low.

Arc AAA MillerMod 30mA/1.5W TXOH on Low
200610035200929p12arcpmmlowwebvg2.jpg

There is a useful corona on the low setting, but it's just barely visible due to the exposure being locked on the high setting photo below. With fully-adapted night vision, the low setting is plenty of light to see things out to a distance of 20-30 feet.

Arc AAA MillerMod 30mA/1.5W TXOH on High (exposure locked on this shot)
200610035200929p11arcpmmhighwebiu8.jpg

Yeah, baby - Arc AAA on steriods!

Arc AAA MillerMod 30mA/1.5W TXOH on Low next to Arc AAA Premium Stock Head
200610035200929p15arcpmmlowarcstockwebph0.jpg

Just like I prefer for a 2-level light, the MM on low is a bit dimmer than the stock Arc, but it is pure white light.

Arc AAA MillerMod 30mA/1.5W TXOH on High next to Arc AAA Premium Stock Head
200610035200929p14arcpmmhigharcstockwebcp0.jpg

This photo is a bit deceptive, thanks to my camera's limited dynamic range and the daytime shooting at a short distance. When seen by the human eye in real use, the drastic difference is much more visible.

MillerMod Polished Parabolic Reflector vs Arc Premium Stock Reflector
2006082452000792arcpstockmmreflectorswebbj3.jpg


I included this last image to show just how perfectly centered the LED is in relation to the reflector. MillerMod did a spectacular job of achieving focus! The stock preimium head, even when view directly overhead, doesn't show any yellow in the reflector, though the LED is well-centered. Since the spot relies on the light coming directly out of the LED, I don't think the relationship between the LED and the reflector is as important for the stock head. The parabolic, polished reflector cut into an original Arc head, though, really helps to achive a nice spot from the Lux III.

I'll be adding more beamshots (white wall, real use, comparisons, etc), runtime graphs, lux readings, subjective thoughts, etc. Until I get the rest completed, please keep on thing in mind - the MM is much brighter in real life than these pictures show. The runtime graphs, once completed, should show this more objectively. I'll also be posting comparison shots with some other lights to help everyone get a better feel for the MM 1.5W's output.

For now, I'll just say that out of all of the lights I've bought over the past couple of years, MillerMod's work ranks at the very top in quality. A great light like the Arc AAA Premium can only be improved by equally great work. MillerMod has accomplished that.

Update #1

Last night, I ran the MM on high for a full run. We'll have to wait for the runtime graph for an objective evaluation, but I will say that with the Duracell 1000mAh NiMH AAA, there was a lot of light for 20 minutes, after which I switched to the low setting and it continued to run for quite a while. I was able to hold the body for the full run, but it did reach 120-125°F. The head reached 145°F and the surface of the reflector got all the way up to 190°F. Obviously, MillerMod's heat sinking works well! Over time, a lot of long runs will eventually take a toll on the Luxeon, but that's to be expected of a hotrod AAA. Most of my use will likely be on the low setting, but having the 1.5W setting available with good runtime, makes it a perfect EDC light.

Update #2 - 25/1.25 Cree Q4 WH

Now that I have my new MillerMod, it's time to add a few new shots.

First up is a side by side of the business end of my 2 MM's, a 30/1.5 LuxIII TXOH on the left, and the 25/1.5 Q4 WH on the right. (I used a Sundrop-3S as the sole illumination source for this shot):

127536305c.jpg


I love how the LuxIII's older style Arc head has that huge parabolic surface. But it's really no match when it comes to output.

Here are the 3 lights I'm using - a stock Arc-P (CS UB2), the LuxIII, and the Cree:

44b97e02bf.jpg


Although the photo doesn't show it, the die is perfectly focused in both of the MM's.

In the following shots, no efforts was made to achieve correct white balance, nor was exposure locked across the photos. Exposure was set to illustrate various aspects of the beam.

This next shot shows the beams (low on the MM's) at an exposure level that allows the variations in each beam to be seem. At this close distance, though, I hasten to add that the Cree's beam is not fully formed, so it appears to be slightly larger than the LuxIII. At normal distances, it is slightly smaller and has better definition. I couldn't get the darn camera to focus.

a16c681ad0.jpg


The next shot does a good job of showing the relative brightness of the 3 lights:

ea2f33e6d3.jpg


This shot does a great job of showing just how well the low level of my MM's replicates the output of the Arc-P, without the angry blue tint.

1113596424.jpg


Finally, here's the Cree, in all it's glory:

67ee6f1155.jpg


Except for the first shot of update #2, all were taken in daylight conditions in my office on a sunny day - probably the worst conditions to take such shots in. I had to stop the camera down 3 or 4 f-stops to tame the Cree's output, which explains why that last shot appears to be taken in darkness.

To really do justice to MillerMod's Cree, some outdoor shots under more controlled conditions need to be made. Suffice it to say that the tint is a very nice, warm white tint, and the light has no problem fully illuminating objects at 40-60 feet.

In the meantime, here are some calc'd lumen values for these lights

Arc-P (CS/UB2) - 5 lumens
Arc/MMLuxIII (TXOH), 30mA low - 6 lumens
Arc/MMLuxIII (TXOH), 1.5W high - 34 lumens
Arc/MMCree (Q4 WH), 25mA low - 7 lumens
Arc/MMCree (Q4 WH), 1.5W high - 84 lumens

For details on how these values where determined, please see

Quickbeam's Lightbox
Lumens from lightbox readings???
Light Meter Benchmark Testing – CPF style

When I need a small light that also can provide a serious blast when needed, the MM Cree is my new go to light. Great job, MillerMod! :twothumbs

Update #3 - Valiant Concepts Arc AA Body

I bought one of these great bodies when JSBurly first had them. They're a great way to add runtime to an Arc AAA light. So, naturally, I wanted to mate it up with my MM's.

After pulling the spring out of the AA Body's endcap, I put a stack of 3mm diameter rare earth magnets totalling a height of 13mm on the negative end of a Duracell 2650 NiMH AA battery. The tailcap sealed just fine, but there was a slight gap with the o-ring peaking through. That works...but...since the foam donut's inner cutout isn't big enough for a AA positive nib to fit inside the center cutout, the head has to be really torqued to get the high level. That has the ugly side effect of over-compressing the inner portion of the foam donut, which then lead to faulty operation. At first, it worked fine. Then, as the compression set it, I lost the high level. When I put it back on the stock body, it would go low/off/high instead of low/high. I can't really explain why this happened. I just know that it's a function of the foam donut being over compressed by the AA's larger diameter positive nib.

I took a dental pick and gently pulled the foam back up. Everything works fine now with the stock tube, so I'm leaving well enough alone. I'd love to use this body with my MM's, but I'm not going to risk damage to MillerMod's work by overcompressing it. I suspect that, if the center cutout could be safely enlarged to accomodate a AA's + nib, using magnets in the tailcap would be a viable solution. I just don't know if enlarging it is safe to do.
 
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I think the head looks bigger because the newer ARC-P have a beveled head - the older ARCs were straight...


Great review Codey!!!
 
skalomax said:
Looks awesome!! and very Bright. Are your Runtimes on High More than 1 hr? Why does the head look bigger?
Runtimes are probably going to be close to 20 minutes on high, but I'm using Duracell's 1000 mAh AAA cells, so it might go longer.

Geologist said:
I think the head looks bigger because the newer ARC-P have a beveled head - the older ARCs were straight...

Great review Codey!!!
That's part of it, but the parabolic cut also goes closer to the outside edge than the stock reflector. Add in the great polishing, and it really does look bigger. Plus, the older head allowed a deeper reflector, which is why MillerMod only offers the parabolic on an old-style head. The overall dimensions are the same.

I did just notice that the top of the Luxeon is deeper in the MM than the LED in the Stock reflector. I think that's due completely to the Luxeon having a lower dome than the stock LED. The stock LED appears to be taller as far as the dome over the emitter, but the emitter seems to be lower in relation to the bottom edge of the reflector.

Also, the reflector, based on awr's post in the sale thread, has a double coating of nickel that MillerMod applied himself. That ought to hold up pretty well. I was concerned about damaging the great finish of the reflective surface, until I saw Andrew's post.

Thanks, Geo, but I'm just getting started on the review! Be sure to check back this weekend.

greenLED said:
:kewlpics: I'm hooked. :crazy:

I thought you might, once you saw it! I tend to notice all the good attributes of a new light first, so I was a bit cautious yesterday about saying much over on EDCF. I've been using/playing with it since it arrived, though. There wasn't a need to be cautious. These are the real deal!

There is really only one thing that isn't nearly perfect, but I suspect it's a trade-off for getting the parabolic cut. In order for the head to be turned far enough that a bump to the front of the light won't cause it to flash, you have to turn the head to the point where the forward-facing edge of the o-ring is slightly exposed. It doesn't hurt the waterproof-ness at all. The contact point of the outer surface of the o-ring is still in contact fully with the body - it's just an esoteric thing.

So, how do you know how far to turn it so that it won't "bump flash"? I tend to hold the Arc with the head between my thumb and first finger. So, I simply pull back on the head slightly while turning it off. As soon as it goes off, it's turned far enough to be "bump flash" proof.

Oh, not only is my Tim Allen "More Power" affliction satisified by the output on high, but the Arc's head gets a little warm on longer runs! I haven't done a run longer than about 5 minutes yet, so I'll have to check what happens during a full run, but at 5 minutes it's barely luke-warm. An Arc AAA being warmed up by the LED is new ground for me!

Hey jch79, no need to drool. I'm sure MillerMod would be glad to build ya one of your own!
 
I concur with Codeman and Virgo 100%. Eric has taken probably the greatest smallest EDC to yet a higher level of excellence. The high stage 1.5watt is BRIGHT. I am never without it and could not be happier. Thank you Eric.

Scott
 
2 questions, please:

1. If I chose the option for 3/4 watt on high and 25mA on low (in order to increase runtimes), would that in itself affect which Lux that I should choose (T-bin Lux III or R-bin Lux I)?

2. What's the difference between the T-bin Lux III and the R-bin Lux I? Would the choice of one or the other affect runtime or type of battery that could be used?

Thanks
 
Spordin said:
2 questions, please:

1. If I chose the option for 3/4 watt on high and 25mA on low (in order to increase runtimes), would that in itself affect which Lux that I should choose (T-bin Lux III or R-bin Lux I)?

2. What's the difference between the T-bin Lux III and the R-bin Lux I? Would the choice of one or the other affect runtime or type of battery that could be used?

Thanks

Millermods answers those questions in posts 72 and 75 of the below thread.

3/4W, 1W, or 1.5 watt ARC AAA using alkaline(3/4W only), NIMH or Prim. Lith AAA cells

Brian
 
eric's mod of the arc is awsome, i have the .75w version i cant say enough good things about it .if your thinking about it stop and just do it , youll be very glad you did
 
Hmmmmm....... I have an ARC P that just may have to go under the MillerMods knife !!!

Think it's possible for Eric to step up the low range a little higher.... more like the Stocker and still get a couple hour (low) runtime on a Lithium?
 
Thanks for the input, very helpful. Making a great light even better sounds good to me. And two heads are better than one 🙂 I like the runtime achieved on low.
 
Anyone have any idea how this light would compare to a Proton?

I know it's not apples to apples, but they do both look like nice little edc lights... Any suggestions / comparisons?
 
xaman, I don't have a Proton to compare it to, but I can say that, unless the Proton has a Luxeon LED or several Nichia-level LED's, it won't come close to a MillerMod 1.5W.

Sorry for the delay in the rest of the review. My head developed a de-coupled something-or-other. It started flickering a lot on low despite my attempts to alleviate all the usual culprits - dirty contacts, dirty threads, short cells. Eric has since made a change to eliminate this problem and is in the process of fixing mine.
 
Thanks for the link, coyote. Most of that info was in the old sales thread, but it was scattered across multiple posts. That's probably why MM started a new thread.
 
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