MiniMagLed 3AA SSC P4'ed vs. L2D CE (now dead, need help)

zeeexsixare

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So my DX'ed SSC P4 came in the mail today (after 15 calendar days, ugh) and I immediately set upon removing the emitter from the star. First, I used suggestions on desoldering the legs first, then bending the star to pop off the emitter. I got enough angle to use a tool to push off the emitter.

Next, I tested the module to get some preliminary results. They looked good.

Then I attached extended copper "legs" to the original leads and aimed them all down like the original Lux3.



Finally, I set it all back in with some thermal grease, and I got some beamshots.



Compare to my shot several weeks ago of the L2D vs. Lux3 MagLED:


I went to fully set the black plastic centering unit of the pill, and when I went to turn it on, nothing happened. Power is on, everything is working, but the emitter is completely dead.

Is the back of the emitter electrically isolated? If not, then maybe that's where I messed up.
 

Nitroz

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The p4 is not isolated. :awman:

Either some AA or finger nail polish will fix the problem for the next p4. I would say that one might be toast!
 

nanotech17

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You should put a copper slug to isolate the emitter from the pill.
All my modded lights ( 2 Lumapower LM301 & LOD SE ) are using the copper spacer from the sandwich shop ( 0.30") why don't you take out the emitter and test it directly using a single wired battery and see how it goes.
 

EngrPaul

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Do you own an ohmmeter to check for a short?

You might actually find that the terminal that connects the regulator top terminal to the can has become open. It's a weak point in the flashlight, and it usually causes flickering. It is made weaker by the activity of being disassembled and reassembled.

The (+) terminals of the Seoul should NOT be common with the can. The (-) terminal of the emitter SHOULD be.
 

zeeexsixare

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nanotech17 said:
You should put a copper slug to isolate the emitter from the pill.
All my modded lights ( 2 Lumapower LM301 & LOD SE ) are using the copper spacer from the sandwich shop ( 0.30") why don't you take out the emitter and test it directly using a single wired battery and see how it goes.

Just did. Even breadboarded it and checked the voltage *at the legs*. Dead. Oh well, $8. Another 1/2 month... I'll have the next one ready to go. Thanks all.
 

zeeexsixare

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EngrPaul said:
Do you own an ohmmeter to check for a short?

You might actually find that the terminal that connects the regulator top terminal to the can has become open. It's a weak point in the flashlight, and it usually causes flickering. It is made weaker by the activity of being disassembled and reassembled.

The (+) terminals of the Seoul should NOT be common with the can. The (-) terminal of the emitter SHOULD be.

Which parts should I be bridging to look for a short? I've breadboarded the emitter, checking the voltage at the legs, and it's getting power but is doing absolutely nothing. The driver circuit is working fine.

When I put the meter on the diode/continuity section and check negative and the base, it reads a steady 712 but doesn't buzz. No idea what that means. It reads infinity for the base and positive. Resistance is infinity between the two legs and between the base and each leg.

How can I isolate the emitter next time? I used thermal grease for this one... Do I need to use AA instead? I actually already have some copper slugs on the way from the Shoppe. Do those have an electrically isolated base like this star did, or something?
 

EngrPaul

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Let me explain one scenerio. It may be your problem, it may not. But it's common with this type of upgrade.

The battery pushes up on the plastic assembly, which actuates the (+) terminal on the regulator board with a force.

In the unmodified setup, this force is shared between the two emitter terminals and the (-) terminal of the regulator board. The two blades from the emitter slide reasonably well up and down in the terminal board contacts, so the (-) terminal gets a reasonable amount of force.

Now with the modified setup, you are bound to present a new set of force requirements at the emitter tails. The thickness of the wire and of the solder makes it difficult for the regulator board to move up freely to actuate the (-) terminal against the can. The emitter tails are "stealing" too much of the force. In this case, the battery gets connected to the can, but not to the regulator board. Nothing happens.
 

EngrPaul

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Have you breadboard tested the emitter connected to the driver board directly?
 

sPEARs

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i guess your SSC (+) leg electrically open , u may try to connect the LED slug to battery (+) and negative leg to battery (-) , coz 2 of my fellows has the same situations as you.

as i remember , luxeon has patented that they ground the LED slug
 
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zeeexsixare

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EngrPaul said:
Have you breadboard tested the emitter connected to the driver board directly?
Thanks for the force analysis... I hadn't thought about it that way.

What I did to test was to insert short sections of 24g wire into where the flat leads would normally have gone into the pill, while the batteries were in and the circuit was active. Then, I inserted the wires into the breadboard, and then the emitter into the breadboard. I measured the voltage across the *emitter's* leads and they were a very steady 3.7V.

I also lightly dropped the SSC into the receptacles where the leads go (no pressure) and when it should at least momentarily light up, it did not.

The original Lux3 still works fine when reinstalled.

I also just bread-board tested the driver board outside of the pill. Still no go. Thanks for your help.
 

nanotech17

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zeeexsixare said:
Thanks for the force analysis... I hadn't thought about it that way.

What I did to test was to insert short sections of 24g wire into where the flat leads would normally have gone into the pill, while the batteries were in and the circuit was active. Then, I inserted the wires into the breadboard, and then the emitter into the breadboard. I measured the voltage across the *emitter's* leads and they were a very steady 3.7V.

I also lightly dropped the SSC into the receptacles where the leads go (no pressure) and when it should at least momentarily light up, it did not.

The original Lux3 still works fine when reinstalled.

I also just bread-board tested the driver board outside of the pill. Still no go. Thanks for your help.

maybe just maybe this might help
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?postid=1871383#poststop
 
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