They were doing that from day 1. Had two for about two weeks. Parked them both because it's inherent in the E1. The shop offered to swap for new, but the likelyhood that the replacements will do the same thing....
I'm hoping Sigelei will do a firmware update to fix it.
They'd randomly think the battery was low and not fire. Pull trigger again and voltage had lowered to a much lower output.
Cool stuff, that kanger gear is what I recommended to many “just starting” vapers. Off the cigs, wanted a set up that was not complicated , but worked and full of flavour(and of course good value). In fact a couple of vapers still use that set up years on today!
You can spend a fortune (I know!) trying to get that perfect Vape , but the kanger does everything very good. Will go as far as saying, a better Vape today than many latest and greatest tanks. No need for crazy W, just Vape away and full of flavour. The factory coils are not bad either, rba side I preferred. Just have to master the right amount of wick to stop those dastardly leaks. Once done, great Vape day on day out.
He gave me a bunch of nickel coil packs, a deck(?) and some Japanese cotton with a sub tank kit. Today he explained the how to basics.
Apparently he invented some method of drip wicking where you get like 40 puffs instead of 2 or 3. He shared the idea back when and now others are claiming the credit and even named it. He said he just wanted to hit his dripper while driving and whomever can have the credit.
The tank breathes a little free for me. I preferred the subtank hole setup but understand why they changed it. But what I can't figure out is how to keep it from leaking. It leaks less when kept horizontal. But either way I sure do like it and figure on some custom coil/wick at some point with it.
They (as with many others) can become troublesome once the coil wick gets saturated. The RBA can reduce the leaks somewhat by using more cotton in the build. I can build, go to vape and its like a tap has opened. Kind of wears thin if its bought juice(not cheap!). Still wears thin with DIY juice to, not to mention oil drips on your T shirt. Now using a higher ohm coil(only small on the kanger so amount of wick to feed through the coil is limited). Just with that set up, i cut longer, so once twisted the end, feed through then work back forth untwisting the cotton twist used to feed through. Normally you cut about level with the base or a little past. I tend to cut a little longer. On this (been a few years so going off memory here). You can soak wick which makes it easier to position, aim both wick ends up vertical, fit cap over, then tuck in/down to cover the juice holes. The only way it can leak is through the juice holes(or O ring). So packing out there(not too much as this can stop the juice, too little floods and spits). It is a little trial error, once done it is easier of course to remember next time. Coils them selves, once(juice dependent as darker juice gunks up coils/wicks faster than lighter coloured juice) should last a year! or more. Trim wick to remove, carefully pull out, if its tight it can bend/move coil and end up shorting. So always worth double checking with a small screw driver through, the coil is nicely positioned. Heat up coil till it glows, now one method is glow, release power button and under a running cold water tap. It comes up like new, flip side, can shorten life with the shock. So now i just glow, release power and blow it a few times. Comes up like new, ready for the fresh new wick and repeat. Depending on juice, it might be 3 weeks till next wick change.................or 3 days if a darker juice like a vanilla custard(very nice but gunks up fast).
This is where when RBA are used instead of ready made coils, reading up and actually seeing the base(youtube is super useful) is important. How much room, the design, be it trapping the coil under crappy screw heads, or nice little grub screws. Different designs, different amount of room all can make the build a pleasure or pita! Nothing worse than fighting and faffing for 10 mins to perfect due to being awkward, for it to flash up short or 9.99...............That can grow old fast. The zeus at the moment takes just a couple of minutes to swap out the wicks. For coil/s changing, add a couple more mins with trimming the legs and positioning.
You refer to 'dark' juice. Does that mean a liquid that has aged a while and therefore the nicotine has darkened is also an affect?
I knew 'sugary' fluid will gunk up a wick, simply due to microscopic particle content.
My concern with building an atomizer in that Kangor setup is the brief lag time between pushing the fire button and actual beginning of sizzling. My thinking is at some point I'll use the Aspire buildable version of the Nautilis tank (forget the model name right now) and use it on my Rover X device. I'd prefer trying a different wick system (than factory) with that one anyway. More 80/20, 70/30 friendly.
I'm learning about lego coils for an eleaf melo. It seems that some tank setups can lego coil packs from other brands. My wife has a Cascade pen that came with a 0.18 that gets hot quickly.
I installed a 0.3 and she likes that much better in the baby cascade tank. The melo has an 0.3 as well so airflow and temperature are very similar. If her coil pops I have the melo filled and ready for her to swap out the baby cascade.
Reviews showed she should get several tanks of liquid used before the eleaf coil pops. That gives me time to learn those other options so I can hook her up with easy R&R at failure times when I'm not around.