Modder needed for a P7 mod..help!

[Sprinkles]

I'm looking for someone who can do a P7 mod for me. I have an UltraFire A20 that I would LOVE a P7 in. As I understand it, the A20's are good for heat control, and I would figure that's good for this type of mod. (ShiningBeam 3-mode driver likely)

If someone would be willing to make this happen for me, please let me know!! Thanks!!!!!! (yes, I'll pay)

Sprinkles
(aka Greg)

 

[Lumencraft (Matt)]

Hi Sprinkles,

What are you wanting for modes in this light? Single mode, low med high? What cells do you use to power it. What do you want max output to be?

 

[Mettee]

That light might do better with a smaller led like the SST-50, the only reason I say this is that the reflector in that light is already "smallish". To get the P7 in it you would have to cut more reflector away, and you would get a so so beam. Plus the SST-50 alone will make a better beam over the P7 due to it being a smaller emitting surface, and single die.

 

[Sprinkles]

I'd be ok with an SST50. I'm not set on a P7. I was attempting to keep cost down and still get good output.

I'm a little flexible with the light's modes. Ideally, I'd have a L/M/H set up. That's what I wanted anyway. If that wouldn't be terribly easy (finding l/m/h driver for SST), then I would be ok with just two modes. One mode wouldn't cut it since it wouldn't be nearly as versatile.

I'd like to drive it off AW RCR's if possible. I wouldn't need this light on for long periods, so I'm not really worried about run times. Just "cool" factor and brightness in a small package.

Just post more questions/comments etc.

Thanks!!
Greg

 

[Mettee]

you should be able to do it fairly cheap with an SST50 and a shining beam driver. But if you go with a shining beam you wont be able to run two RCR123s, but you would be able to run one 17650 which has better current draw capabilities anyway and a little more mah.

The SB board takes care of the modes so you should be fine in that aspect as well. And the SB board will work well with the SST50 as many other builders have used it with success.

 

[Sprinkles]

Actually, the light is a single 123 light. It won't take 2 123's/18650 etc. That's why I mentioned the "don't care about run times" and "an IMR might be better."

 

[Mettee]

I didnt see that...IMR for sure :twothumbs its the only thing that will work safely

 

[Lumencraft (Matt)]

I agree with the SST thing the IMR cells and the SB driver. I have built a few similar lights using the Ultrafire A10B (the 18650 version of this light) and it works quite well. A P7 is possible, and it actually puts out a fairly smooth beam, but the reflector does have to be bored out.

Right now I would say the SST 50 with a 3 mode 2.8A driver and an IMR will be the easiest way to go. It would only be about 10$ more than a P7 anyway.

Once you decide on what you want I would be willing to mod the light for you. Shoot me a PM if you are interested and I can give you a price break down.

 

[old4570]

Been there done it ... :thumbsup:

I used the Shinning beam 3 mode driver :

You will need to put a dab of solder on the + pad as the RCR123A's will otherwise hit the components on the driver , Im currently contemplating doing another SSC P7 A20 [ I have 2 ATM ] .

The first A20 [ P7 mod ] was stolen , but I really did like it , did it do about 1.8A measured at the tail . [ J-bin emitter to keep current down ]

Im seriously considering using the original driver if I do it again [ 1.6A with a XP-G R3 ] . Im not that impressed with the A20 with a XP-G in it , the P7 mod seemed better , especially in low and medium .

I have a D***J bin emitter and plenty of drivers [ SB and others ]
Due to the components on the SB driver it may not be the best choice , though I love the 3 modes .

But I would give the original driver a go , and I am trying to talk myself into another A20 P7 mod , I love the A20 , my fav RCR123A light , and I have 2 ATM , Original + XP-G R3 ..

KD sells a P7 5 mode driver which should be considered a viable option .


http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=236739 Original thread , sorry pictures are gone .

 

[Mettee]

 

[Sprinkles]

VESTURE: PM sent!

I'm leaning to retaining the original idea of a P7 in there. I'd like to explore that option first as dealing with IMR's is a bit of a turn off at the moment....we'll see.

Thanks all - I'll keep you posted!

 

[Mettee]

I think you should try the mod yourself... you can totally do it.

And I will help you do it for free if you cant get it yourself.

drew

 

[old4570]

VESTURE: PM sent!

I'm leaning to retaining the original idea of a P7 in there. I'd like to explore that option first as dealing with IMR's is a bit of a turn off at the moment....we'll see.

Thanks all - I'll keep you posted!

IMR is just a higher discharge capable battery ..

The mod itself is simple enough , you need a round file to open up the reflector just a little , and a soldering iron , and some non conductive thermal epoxy .

Once you have opened up the hole in the reflector just enough so the lens of the P7 fits without binding , you can then trim the tabs so it fits in the pill .

Glue the emitter down making sure its central , solder the driver to the LED and now test to make sure it works ..

I use a 2xAA battery holder with gator clips ..

Then solder the driver in place [ before anything fit it to the pill ]

Once soldered test again ...

Then assemble into body , and test again ...

Put in a battery and give a quick test ...

If all's well , you will have a SSC P7 A20 ..

To keep current down , D***J bin emitter or C***J bin ...
If you use a D***I bin the current may be too high for the RCR123A ..
My Trustfire RCR123A red and black were good for about 2A [ Tested with MC-E ] but thats pushing it ..

 

[M@elstrom]

What kinda' run time could you expect from such a pocket hotrod (P7-A20)? 20 minutes @ 100% :thinking:

 

[Lumencraft (Matt)]

What kinda' run time could you expect from such a pocket hotrod (P7-A20)? 20 minutes @ 100% :thinking:

On one IMR cell @ 2-2.5ish amps runtime is more like 12-15 min.

 

[Sprinkles]

10-15min is what I guessed too. Not pretty, but BRIGHT....hence the necessity of having other modes to offer more run time/usability.

 

[old4570]

Depends on set up ..

If you go for max current set up , D***i bin SSC P7 emitter on direct drive [ ?? two drivers to chose from ATM that are easy to get , Im trying to source more 4.2v drivers ATM ] with a IMR , you may see quite a bit of current .

Just depends on the luck of the draw , but Batt capacity ?? 500mA / 450mA at say 2A current draw , 15min , but your most likely looking at diminishing returns almost as soon as you turn it on , so it may actually run longer but it will dim as you go .

The other issue is going to be heat , over 2A its going to get warm really fast , and expect bacon sizzling temps within a few minutes in such a small host .

If you aim for 1.8A or 2A it wont be so bad , you may be able to run high for maybe up to 3 minutes before you need to toss the light .

My MTE sucks upward of 3A out of a single 18650 , and at the 5 minute mark is very hot , getting close to my tolerance level [ fresh batt ] and its a decent sized host with a fair bit of mass .

 

[Lumencraft (Matt)]

Hi all. For those of you who are following the thread Srinkles has decided to go with the R5.

Sprinkles here are the pics I told you I would send.

If the head of the A20 is the same as the A10 ( I am guessing it is) you just need to unscrew the pill from inside the head with a nail or something.

Once you have the pill out of the head desolder the wires from the emitter and pop the old emitter off with a screw driver or something. Most of them are not glued down all that well, but if yours sticks hard get the pill hot hot for a few seconds and the glue will break down.

Next remove the factory driver. Some of them are soldered from the outside and if that is the case just remove the old solder and pop out the driver. I have had several that were soldered to the brass ring and then pressed into the pill. If this is the case you have 2 choices. Heat the pill with a torch to melt the solder on the inside, or take a small nail or something and stick through the hole where the led wire comes out and beat the driver out.

Be sure to clean any leftover glue etc off the pill.

Now for the XPG to get the very best focus this is what I do. Center the emitter and glue it down with AA or AS, let it dry well. Next we need a new wire path. If you just use the old wire holes the reflector sits on top of the wire and the focus is not as good. This will also look nicer when you are done.

(if this next part seems too difficult you can use the factory holes, but focus is not as good IMO)

Anyway the 10mm PCB has two small holes in it, get a bit slightly smaller than the holes and drill through the pill. Next solder the wires on (even with small wire it is still a good idea to use flux). Then carefully pull the wires through the holes so they come out the bottom. It should look like this.



Now remove the factory leads from the driver and solder you LED+ and - to the board. I recommend soldering the led + wire to both the + pad and the back of the diode next to it other wise it can easily tear off.



Once this is done I give the driver a GENTLE twist to wind the remaining wire up inside the pill, then solder the negative contact to the brass ring. A good hot iron and some flux will help here.




You may need to add to the spring on the bottom. The A10B comes with a spring on the factory driver, but the A20 may not. I used part of the spring from a maglite tower to add length to mine.

Once this is done its time to adjust the focus. You will need something to protect the wires on top of the led from the metal reflector anyway, so plastic discs are good or paper hole reinforcers work well too. For me I wanted an ultra smooth beam with equal brightness from one side to the other, not a tight hot spot, so about 4 or 5 rings for me. Just stick them to the bottom of the reflector.



Here is how the reflector sits on it now.


Here is the money shot..

2aa minimag led VS EDC XPG R5


Hope this helps, let me know if you have questions..

 

[OCD]

Vesture...can you give me the list of items (and where you got them) you used to mod the A10B for the SST-50? I'm ready to try my first mod and this seems pretty strait forward.

 

[Lumencraft (Matt)]

Vesture...can you give me the list of items (and where you got them) you used to mod the A10B for the SST-50? I'm ready to try my first mod and this seems pretty strait forward.

Of course. The Light body came from DX. The driver came from shiningbeam. You will want to replace the leads that came on this driver with some much thicker ones. The led was from Anventexpress.com. I just get the the emitter by itself because the stars avnet sells are way to big. When you order you may as well get a few leds because the shipping from avnet is a bit high. Also I am not sure how familiar with use of these LEDs you are, but I will tell you be VERY careful with the dome. They are the Achilles heel of this emitter. The last thing you will need is a small PCB or a shim made of copper or aluminum. I used a 16mm round cree PCB. You could remove the led from the one that comes in the light, or Kaidomain sells them. The SST-50 will solder to the Cree star just fine.

Good luck with your build, if you have questions you know where to find us .