Wurkkos

Moddoolar Triple Wasp Cooling Head and Glow System

ElectronGuru

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All other TL production is on hold while we finish the new BOSS

I expect Wasp production to restart around the end of the year, with ETAs starting 2 months later.
 

tab665

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KITROBASKIN

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With all the (justifiable) talk about the BOSS it seems like a good time to bring up the V5 Wasp head again.

Recently picked up another one of the last Oveready delrin diamondback tailcaps. Rapid shipping as usual (before mother nature could get a cold hand on it) and put it on a slim 50 body with a zero res shorty switch: So small, so bright, such fine craftsmanship. And turns-out, a fellow can hold it in-hand, using thumb and index finger to easily rotate just the Wasp head in order to change modes. We're talking slick.

For whatever reason, the dynamic (and no doubt busy) folks at Oveready shipped me a delrin tailcap that had an apparently mis-installed Surefire twisty switch. Did they know how interesting and amusing it was going to be for me to figure out how to remove it? I remembered the Oveready page that describes how to remove Surefire switches; took a gander, fiddled a bit, then used fingers to pull out the switch boot. (The twisty switch was not firmly seated)

As luck would have it, had the correct punch to gently knock the Surefire rivet/pin doohicky clean out. Used a jar opener to twist the tailcap enough to loosen the plastic threaded retaining ring (had it been glued in place?) then installed the ZRS to cook up some fun-loving lumens. Thanks again Oveready for an enjoyable evening project!
 

samuraishot

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EG or Moddoo,

I have a wasp + shorty cell tube + 18350 extender + tail w/ zrs. Just wanted to confirm that if I add an 18650 extender and replace the zrs with a mcclicky, then I would need 2x18500s to run it, correct?
 

Croquette

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It may work but only if your shorty is the brass one otherise you will have no contact.

Ps: I misunderstood. You add the 18650 to the 18350 so you must have the brass one.
 

samuraishot

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Hi Croquette, thanks! I'll post a photo of the set-up so that those who'd like to chime in have a better idea of what I'm talking about. My goal is to get longer runtimes, but keep the torch short too.
 

mikesantor

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OR, after a few guys I train with saw the X300s you did for me, they want Wasp heads for their scout bodies. Is there any luck of these coming back now that the BOSS is chugging along? I dont want them hanging on for something that isnt going to happen. Thanks.
 

ElectronGuru

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OR, after a few guys I train with saw the X300s you did for me, they want Wasp heads for their scout bodies. Is there any luck of these coming back now that the BOSS is chugging along? I dont want them hanging on for something that isnt going to happen. Thanks.
Moddoolar production is on hold while we crank up BOSS supplies, but...

1) they will be available eventually and will have E thread options

2) well before that, we'll have E thread BOSS heads that will also work

3) well before that, we'll have more P60 based options


All them v5's with the same performance/options you have on the x300
 

mikesantor

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Moddoolar production is on hold while we crank up BOSS supplies, but...

1) they will be available eventually and will have E thread options

2) well before that, we'll have E thread BOSS heads that will also work

3) well before that, we'll have more P60 based options


All them v5's with the same performance/options you have on the x300

Lol, I was telling my Cousin (non flashlight guy) about all the options he has with the V5 heads and his head was about to explode. Now I get to tell him there are even more options coming down the road.

Thanks, bud. Ill let him know all the info and in the mean time Im going to keep beating on these X300s. So far they have been taking .308 like a champ.
 

yevets

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Are V5 Triple Wasp Cooling heads still in plan? Unless I missed an update, I was expecting them earlier this year. I have a body and triad tailcap that I have been waiting to buy a V5 Wasp head for.

Thanks
 

ElectronGuru

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Are V5 Triple Wasp Cooling heads still in plan? Unless I missed an update, I was expecting them earlier this year. I have a body and triad tailcap that I have been waiting to buy a V5 Wasp head for.
Sorry for the confusion. Plan A was to launch the BOSS last year, make a batch or two, then come right back to other products. But Plan A didn't anticipate the gargantuan demand for BOSS.

Plan B is spending the year scaling BOSS production to catch up with initial demand, then return to Wasp and other products later in the year. I'm working to have Moddoolar restocked by mid winter.
 

peter yetman

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Just bumping this thread - again.
Could someone tell me about the crenellated bezel, please?
The only one I have is on my HDS, it's nice and gentle and really only there to let you know the light is on, when you place it face down.
That's what I'd like, is the Wasp one more aggresive or will it not rip my pockets?
I don't want to scre my beagle.
P
 

Croquette

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Torchlab head creneletad bezel are a bit more aggressive than hds. It will not rip your pocket the first time you put your wasp head in but it will on short to medium term.
 

KITROBASKIN

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Just bumping this thread - again.
Could someone tell me about the crenellated bezel, please?
The only one I have is on my HDS, it's nice and gentle and really only there to let you know the light is on, when you place it face down.
That's what I'd like, is the Wasp one more aggresive or will it not rip my pockets?
I don't want to scre my beagle.
P

Beagles sleep peacefully around this WASP

http://flashlightguide.com/2016/08/review-moddoolar-triple-v5-wasp/

One of the sublime qualities of a WASP head is that it is smooth but the fluted/hollowed areas provide good purchase. In times of cold, it is nice to have one's digits on the warm head while about. In fact, someone outfitted with the 50mm body and a Triad tailcap with zero res shorty 'switch' can hold the Triad with the ring finger and pinky pressing against palm, and use the thumb and index finger to rotate the head for activation and shutdown. The body and head juncture needs to stay still, keep it tight. (Changing modes with that method is more challenging, not something I would do)
 
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