drpepper1024
Newly Enlightened
does anyone know of any mods that can be done on the 635nm laser from Atlasnova? Could you do the pot mod on it for instance, like you can on a leadlight?
Mods for 635nm laser
- Thread starter drpepper1024
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ACMarina
Flashlight Enthusiast
The red one? You can hold those lenses on them to change the shape of the beam, but I don't think there are "pot" mods that can be done on the red ones. It's not the same kind of setup, really. .
The_LED_Museum
*Retired*
As far as I'm aware, you cannot modify directly-injected diode lasers like red, blue, or violet.
You can increase the laser diode drive current a little, but go too far and you'll let all the magic smoke out of it - and you'll end up with either a very expensive LED or a DED - Dark Emitting Diode.
You can increase the laser diode drive current a little, but go too far and you'll let all the magic smoke out of it - and you'll end up with either a very expensive LED or a DED - Dark Emitting Diode.
superman75321
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2004
- Messages
- 28
Actually, just tonight i hacked apart one of the broken red ones from atlasnova and there is a pot. but i dont know if its possible to get to it because its not under the button without destroying the housing. I got frustrated and finnaly took a saw to it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif but becasuse it went through the washing machine i have no way of testing it.
The_LED_Museum
*Retired*
Well, at least he didn't drown it in the toliet. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Shiftlock
Enlightened
Yes, the power of this laser can be turned up by rotating the pot counterclockwise. Compared to a DPSS laser like the Leadlight, it's much more important that you not turn it too far, because if you do, *poof*. Don't do it without monitoring the current draw. Turn it up until it's drawing about 45mA. That should be good for around 15mW of red output power. If you want to push it, go to 50mA current draw, but it will blow at 55mA. No, you can't get "Leadlight power" out of these things, but you can make them into the brightest red pointer that you have ever seen, and for the price, you can't go wrong.
wolfblue
Newly Enlightened
5mw pointers have 7mw diodes tops. Even if it had a 10mw, I doubt you could get 15mw. If you could, it would drop off immediately and be under 1mw in 5 seconds. And be dead soon after. A 15mw 635 diode will run 70 USD or more. A 7mw diode would have to be cold like ice to put out 15mw. And the color would shift into orange. Your better off to use a cheaper 650nm and cool it alot. You might get it below 640 and double the rated output.
But I still want to try this pointer mod. I will be trying to get a 532 high spec from Atlasnova to compare with my other leadlight soon. I will get a 635 pointer at the same time.
But I still want to try this pointer mod. I will be trying to get a 532 high spec from Atlasnova to compare with my other leadlight soon. I will get a 635 pointer at the same time.
Raccoon
Enlightened
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2004
- Messages
- 631
You can disassemble the 635nm AtlasNova pointer relatively easy compared to a leadlight greenie. (Reminder, remove batteries before disassembling to prevent accidental lasing or shorts.)
The head of the light has a screw-off cap. Presumably, someone could screw attachments to the end of this pointer. Goto the hardware store and buy a nut that threads onto this screw. Use a pair of vice grip pliers and pull on the nut. This way you're not damaging the threads by vicing the threads directly.
The button should fall inside as you remove the diode and driver assembly. Note how the driver board aligns inside the pen casing, you will have to insert it exactly straight when you reassemble it. Simply put the button back into the hole before you reassemble.
ShiftLock: could you please describe in layman's detail how to monitor the current draw? Is this from the battery terminal or from the diode? Inline or parallel? (Never used my multimeter for current readings.)
The head of the light has a screw-off cap. Presumably, someone could screw attachments to the end of this pointer. Goto the hardware store and buy a nut that threads onto this screw. Use a pair of vice grip pliers and pull on the nut. This way you're not damaging the threads by vicing the threads directly.
The button should fall inside as you remove the diode and driver assembly. Note how the driver board aligns inside the pen casing, you will have to insert it exactly straight when you reassemble it. Simply put the button back into the hole before you reassemble.
ShiftLock: could you please describe in layman's detail how to monitor the current draw? Is this from the battery terminal or from the diode? Inline or parallel? (Never used my multimeter for current readings.)
drpepper1024
Newly Enlightened
I'd Like to know how to monitor current draw too. And does the same apply if your monitoring the current of the green leadlights?
