yes the two are internet showoffs and, for example, do questionable edge retention tests. never mind them. it is interesting to learn though what the construction of this "imported 5EUR-knife" is. basically the Mora has the blade of a folding knife which is glued to a plastic handle, for lack of better engrish.
the other month i had the Mora Basic in my hands and sharpened it. It was really easy to slap a micro-ish secondary bevel on it, i got it super sharp in no time. then i decided to delete the bevel because that's the recommended way (Kyle vid1, Kyle vid2) to maintain such a blade. took quite a while (on my goto stone the Spyderco UF) to apex the grind; i found it a thankless effortful task, given how fast any knife edge can get dull in relation/in comparison. Take 1 sheet of paper towel (kitchen roll), scrunch it up, and (try to) cut through the paper ball as if it were a tomato. After this simple cut test the Mora edge is blunt again!, check the apex reflection with your headlamp Olight H1 Nova to verify :huh:
very soft steel in my books. makes it easy to strop, i give you that :ironic:
There is something wrong if your edge won't cut paper towel without dulling. Maybe you have a burr that is rolling that needs to be removed.
Those vids show the problem with the so called "Scandi" grind (it's just a cheap way for the manufacturer to put an edge on a blade which is why it's used a lot for machetes) - while you can use the bevel as a sharpening guide, you end up having to remove a lot metal. Another problem with scandi grinds is the edges tend to be too weak, particularly for the soft steels that the use or for any hard use. I used the "scandi" edges but I found that a 40 degree edge bevel off of a sharpmaker was much more practical and easier to maintain.