Most simple (to build) P7 Helmet light

JHJHJH

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Sep 10, 2008
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This is easy! DX reflector as an housing, kaidomain 2.8 A 3 mode driver, two small heatsinks, some heat conducting glue and quick epoxy. Helmet mount is made of aluminium plate and 3M Dual Lock velcro. Thats all you need. Can be driven with AA eneloops. 10 minutes / eneloop at full power.

Some pictures about the light with white wall beamshot comparisons to Lupine Wilma.

http://picasaweb.google.com/jhappone/Lamppu?authkey=-ioD907rYwk#slideshow

Beam pattern is a bit narrow for general use, but it is ideal for fast trail riding if you have decent wide beam (+500lm) bar light. No outdoor pictures coming because lamp found another owner before had a chance to take one... Still it is not only good. It's exellent!

Beam pattern can be nicely adjusted, with hammer, to be more suitable for slower driving or running purposes, but it will be another story...

Now I have also found out that no reason to over engineer housings if only the light output is considered. Light and ugly is better on helmet than heavy and shiny. Who can see it anyhow? :)
 
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Baulz

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Feb 26, 2008
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Now I have also found out that no reason to over engineer housings if only the light output is considered. Light and ugly is better on helmet than heavy and shiny. Who can see it anyhow? :)

I have been strruggling to find a way to build a P7 lights using the same reflector, and really like what you have done.

My goal was a nice looking light, but going to go with your easy functional design. Thanks for sharing!:)
 

JHJHJH

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Thank you for your compliments. This is certainly nice place to share and gather information.

I have made one bar light with too much of over engineering so that road has been seen... Looking those images of my friends lamp... Mine can be even worse if you know what I mean.

http://kuvablogi.com/nayta/914811/

Worse is better... Or at least more ugly is more better at this stage. It is time to push the envelope to other direction. Light and functional it will be.

I had (and still have and won't lose those very easily) two welded Eneloop battery packs having 5 cells in series. One is 5 cell and another is 10 cell pack. Safe, easy to use and reliable. Enough for 150 minutes at full power and 300 at medium power.

New owner will try first to use 6 and 8 battery holders with Eneloops. Any ideas where to find good battery holders suitable for this task? Kaidomain? Welded packs are not that more expensive, but without good charger expenses are quickly rising to such that welding is not first option. Good battery holders would make system even more versatile than ready made packs.

Litium polymer batteries that I have were not for this baby.. :)

Really have to comment that lamps with temperature regulation and parts costing a few dollars I don see any reason to make too much of extra cooling for lamps. I have an idea to test the amount of needed cooling in practice. That will be the way how DIY lamps will be kicking *** of any commercial setups, whose designers have to have more safety margin and not so spesific use oriented desing. Using at night while moving and below 10 celsius temperature it is very small amount of cooling which is needed. Very small indeed.

If lamp cannot be used to warm frozen hands it has been overcooled. (Finnish proverb) (not really..)
 
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Jarl

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Jan 11, 2007
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I absolutely LOVE it.


Perfection is achieved not when nothing can be added, but when nothing can be taken away.


Respect!!! :thumbsup:
 

JHJHJH

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I absolutely LOVE it.


Perfection is achieved not when nothing can be added, but when nothing can be taken away.


Respect!!! :thumbsup:

It's nice and should be left untouched. But that's not an reason not to build another lamp.

Another design is on test bech allready. Half the weight and hammer modified wider beam pattern for general use.

This time I am going to use linear regulation with two levels (2.8 + 1.4 A) and third level is resistor driven low mode (about 0.2 A). Off function is not available this time at all. Connection is foolproof in a way that if regulators are both going to brake down resistor driven level stays on all the time. This way I can at the same time also make a litle boost to Kaidomains SSC P7 8x7135 2.8A driver which seem to have a bit lover current than advertised.

Linear regulatior is used because the lamp will be sometimes headmounted without helmet and dont feel comfortable to use PWM regulators this time.

And I can guarantee its going to be ugly in many ways. This time I also have used as elegant electronic desing principles as is my hammering technique while modifying beam pattern. What I was lacking in skill I was replacing with brute force.
 

Zero_Enigma

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Nov 22, 2006
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Toronto, Canada
Now I have also found out that no reason to over engineer housings if only the light output is considered. Light and ugly is better on helmet than heavy and shiny. Who can see it anyhow? :)

I agree at night the light really is the main focus while riding. I have a really fugly main headlight (4xSSC P4 U-bin) in ghetto full guts exposed rubberband mounted to the reflector but at night people think 'ZOMG under powered motorbike bright!>?'.

Only when they get closer they see it's a DIY ghetto'ed light and often I don't get any flack or rude comments because the crazy brightness from the distance already gained some respects from the drivers. Now if riding during the day well then yah looks matter for me during the day because people will notice that first and it really hits on the morale when it's uber fugly on the bike. :faint::eek::(
 

JHJHJH

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Sep 10, 2008
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I agree at night the light really is the main focus while riding. I have a really fugly main headlight (4xSSC P4 U-bin) in ghetto full guts exposed rubberband mounted to the reflector but at night people think 'ZOMG under powered motorbike bright!>?'.

Only when they get closer they see it's a DIY ghetto'ed light and often I don't get any flack or rude comments because the crazy brightness from the distance already gained some respects from the drivers. Now if riding during the day well then yah looks matter for me during the day because people will notice that first and it really hits on the morale when it's uber fugly on the bike. :faint::eek::(

My wild guess is that those victims of yours are just totally blinded and they dont't have any consept of your rubber bands or reflectors. Luckily it takes some time to recover and understand what was it and that pehaps saves us from hearing a few bitter comments. To be able to see rubbish details of 800 lumen lamp setup in dark from passing by bike you should have at least cat eyes + 3000 lumen spot monster at hand :)..

Using of helmet light during daylight means that no bling bling will save you from being considered being quite an willage idiot. Done that in some rare ocasions but could not care less... "I am mayby an idiot but not an fool."
 
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JHJHJH

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Sep 10, 2008
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A new Hammerlite (Hammer modified reflector and lighter setup) version is presented and a few beamshots are added.

http://picasaweb.google.com/jhappone/Lamppu?authkey=-ioD907rYwk#slideshow

The new Hammerlite uses three mode driving cirquit, which is not of the most elegant desing, but it works:

On high: 8x7135 2.8A Board + 13 ohm resistor (switch backwards)
On med: 4x7135 1.4A Board + 13 ohm resistor (switch forwards)
On low direct drive with 13 ohm resistor (switch in the middle)

Control switch is three mode and there is no OFF... Why should one have it? Evidently this lamp is ment for serious business.
 
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