muyshondt aeon mk1 problem

[bobb]

こんにちは。最近入手したMuyshondt Aeonに不具合があります。ローがたまにしか出ず、締め付けると急にハイが出ます。コンタクトスプリングを伸ばすと、一度は正常に動作しましたが、しばらくすると再び同じ問題が発生し始めました。同様の問題が発生した方、または解決策を知っている方はいらっしゃいますか？

 

[desert.snake]

Unfortunately, only practice will help - twist and bend it with small movements until it works as it should. As far as I remember, there is a spring that is compressed and successively closes concentric contacts. It needs to be shaped so that the outer ring touches before the center. Long, delicate and painstaking work. The spring is spiral, when it is completely flattened, all the turns are in 1 plane

Here is a photo of how it should look new

Introducing: The AEON!!! A New Light from Endeavour!!

fleegs: The light gets as warm as the CR2 Ion does, all of my lights dissipate about a watt's worth of power. Not to pick on you specifically, Rob, but for the life of me I've never been able to figure out why it is some people capitalize every letter in the names of my lights (save for the...

www.candlepowerforums.com

 

[bobb]

ありがとうございます。延長したのは間違いでした。バネが外れてしまいました。悲しいです。

 

[bobb]

After all, what is the mechanism that switches between low and high?

残念ながら、練習だけが助けになったりします。うまく機能するまで、小さなでねじったり曲げたりしてください。私の記憶では、圧縮されて同心円状の接点を連続的に閉じるスプリングがあります。が中心に接触する前に接触するように形を整える必要があります。 長くて繊細で骨の折れる作業です。 スプリングはらせん状態で、完全に平らになると、すべての回転が１つの平面になります。

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他の状態の写真はこちら

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/introducing-the-aeon-a-new-light-from-endeavour.195

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[desert.snake]

After all, what is the mechanism that switches between low and high?

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The turns of the spring itself, as they are compressed, close the circular contacts on the board sequentially from the edge to the center. Circles - section of spring coils

ありがとうございます。延長したのは間違いでした。バネが外れてしまいました。悲しいです。

Don't be sad, you can straighten the spring and solder it back

 

[bobb]

I see. So, the reason why it is difficult to get a low signal in the first place may be that the low and high areas are caked with solder dirt. I thought the gold plating was peeling off, but it's probably solder stains. If you remove the current solder dirt and reinstall the spring, it may work properly. Looks difficult.

 

[desert.snake]

It is necessary to give the spring the correct shape so that as it is compressed the coils touch the pads in the correct sequence and interval. I once read about a fountain pen nib tuner. He worked on each nib for 12 hours. I think there is something similar here

 

[bobb]

There is a further problem. The light will dim when the head part is closed. The head parts are loose and can be disassembled. Loosening it makes it brighter, tightening it makes it darker. This is a problem because the light cannot be operated unless it is tightened.

 

[desert.snake]

Lubricate the O-ring with silicone (red), add thread locking compound on the back of the thread under the bezel (blue) and tighten. It is better to use a medium strength blue fixative so that you don't have to use a industrial heat gun to disassemble it. Im use Loctite 242 or 243, need a little bit of it, a few drops in a circle

 

[bobb]

I bought a soldering iron. This is my first time welding, but I think I'll give it a try. I tested it by fixing the spring with tape, and the distinction between low and high seems to work. I also have to buy Loctite.

 

[desert.snake]

A bad solder can later lead to the spring will fall off. The best solder for most things is tin Sn 59-63, the rest is lead Pb. Like Sn60Pb40, Sn63Pb37, Sn62Pb36Ag2. Flux is also important, I use phosphoric acid, great for everything except very small microelectronics

 

[bobb]

What is the best adhesive to glue the removed retainer to the base?

 

[desert.snake]

The easiest way is to use 3M double-sided tape, cut out a suitable circle, if it doesn't hold - Henkel Moment rubber glue

 

[bobb]

Thank you for all your advice. Thanks to you, the repair was successful. The high is somehow slow, but there is no luxury at this time.The low is stable and the high is also produced. thank you!

 

[desert.snake]

Congratulations! I'm just waiting for one in the mail and I've had 2 or 3 before with some issues otherwise I wouldn't be able to help

Oh, one more thing for the aluminum version. When you use it often, it starts not to turn on sometimes. The inspection showed me last time that a black powder was forming between the bottom of the flashlight and the bottom of the battery. Most likely it is due to micro-sparks. If you wipe off this powder, the flashlight turns on reliably again. There is a solution - cut a circle out of thin brass or stainless steel foil (0.1-0.2 mm or so), like the bottom of a shortcrust pastry meat pie. Or silver, if possible. And press it into the bottom of the lantern. This should take care of the microsparking

 

[bobb]

いろいろアドバイスありがとうございました。おかげさまで修理は無事に終わりました。ハイはなんとなく遅いですが、このご時世に贅沢は出来ません。ありがとうございました！

Congratulations! I'm just waiting for one in the mail and I've had 2 or 3 before with some issues otherwise I wouldn't be able to help

Oh, one more thing for the aluminum version. When you use it often, it starts not to turn on sometimes. The inspection showed me last time that a black powder was forming between the bottom of the flashlight and the bottom of the battery. Most likely it is due to micro-sparks. If you wipe off this powder, the flashlight turns on reliably again. There is a solution - cut a circle out of thin brass or stainless steel foil (0.1-0.2 mm or so), like the bottom of a shortcrust pastry meat pie. Or silver, if possible. And press it into the bottom of the lantern. This should take care of the microsparking
View attachment 68150

thank you. My benefactor. And thank you for this masterpiece light.

 

[desert.snake]

You're welcome There are sooo many people here who will help if they know something, I have been helped many times with advice and action. A wonderful forum!