Muyshondt Flieger Review

[Ozythemandias]

Anyone know if Muyshondt has a phone line?
In my testing of the prototype Flieger I ve got about the same throw as my HDS 250 however a much bigger hotspot. I m running Duracell primary 123 and nitecore rcr123/ 16340 at over 3200 mah (?).
They've advised that they haven't tested 16340's and won't answer as to whether this will be harmful for the light.
I don't have access to the muyshondt cells as I can't get them over here from the US.
Other only option is aw 18650 protected button top OR 2 x 18350 protected aw.
Any helpful advice would be appreciated

What are you asking?

The website says 2xcr123, 2x18350 and 1x 18650 will all be compatible. 16340 and 18350 operate at the same voltages so if its good for 2x18350 you should be fine.

Don't mix primary and rechargeable.


"at over 3200 mah (?)" What is this number?

 

[usdiver]

Thanks Oz,
The rcr123 or "16340" is what o was told they didn't test but maybe they misunderstood what I was saying. The mAh is the capacity I believe.

My primary cells and the rcr123's seem to give the light about the same output as my hds 250 which suggests that what I have isn't enough to give it full power... we ll see

 

[Ozythemandias]

Thanks Oz,
The rcr123 or "16340" is what o was told they didn't test but maybe they misunderstood what I was saying. The mAh is the capacity I believe.

My primary cells and the rcr123's seem to give the light about the same output as my hds 250 which suggests that what I have isn't enough to give it full power... we ll see

Try the 18650 cell to see if that affects output.

If you have 16340 cells labeled 3200 mAh then they are probably fake and should not be used.

 

[usdiver]

I may have made a mistake on that 3200 cause those 16340 I bought from flashaholics U.K. Or torch direct, they are legit.. I think I meant to put that with the 18650. Having trouble finding a 18650 button top with high capacity over here that I know is legit. Won't buy on eBay or amazon

 

[usdiver]

Anybody in the states able to take a delivery of muyshondt batteries and send em to me over the water? I ll happily give you sweetener for the service. This looks like the only way I m going to find out the answer to my question.

 

[usdiver]

Strike that battery request... problem sorted.

 

[thenikjones]

I don't really want to change this into a review of the Beagle, but there are aspects of each that I prefer. An ideal light would likely be the love child of these two. Having a clip on the Beagle is great, although I am not a fan of machined clips. The output of the Flieger is much more impressive. I prefer the battery access on the Beagle, but the size of the Flieger is better (it is larger, but feels better in the hand). Having the mule LEDs is nice on the Beagle, but not as useful as I first thought. I think the Flieger does a good enough job here at the lower levels.

I am really be looking forward to the Flieger Mk II if it ever comes to pass.

eala

Now the nights are darker, I see a real benefit to the Beagle design. There is not hot spot! The mule ring lights the area close by, the throw LED doesn't add to a hot spot. Not around my garden anyway

In 2 weeks I do a 24 hour run, looking forward to using the Beagle during my dark laps. Usually use a SPY 007 - certainly brighter but interested to see if the higher CRI and lack of hot spot make the Beagle a more useful light.

If only the Beagle had a rotary switch...

 

[desert.snake]

Well, finally I got the chance to have a Flieger, this is a prototype, one of 24, if I'm not mistaken, differs from the serial version by the presence of the last mode memory and the waterproof rings here are black, not brown-red. I think can post some observations here, I hope this will be useful to someone.

The hue and shape of the beam are good, reminds me of my HDS with XPL 4000K - very nice and useful beam for general use. The emitter is perfectly centered and also in height inside the reflector.

Size and controls are the same as my main light Jaxman E2L. First of all I checked the currents if using a freshly charged 18650 battery::

lm = A = lm/W

1 = 0.01 = 27
25 = 0.06 = 113
100 = 0.2 = 135
500 = 1.36 = 99
720 = 2.94 = 66

Jaxman:
800 = 3 = 72
120 = 0.38 = 85
24 = 0.06 = 108

Apparently, they have the same drivers, but with different mode settings.

At level 1, PWM is perfectly visible with the naked eye, at level 2 it is not so noticeable, at 3,4,5 levels I do not see it.

Level 4 and 5 almost do not differ in brightness, in nature I do not see an advantage in lighting range, taking into account power consumption, level 5 is superfluous in my opinion.

The lack of a clip or lanyard is rather inconvenient - he falls out of his pocket, rolls on all surfaces and tries to escape.

The absence of a spring in the head contact does not allow working normally with unprotected elements (they are too short to have contact), same problem as Prometheus Aplha, this could damage the battery if dropped by the glass.

The walls of the case are very thick here and at the same time the glass has rather weak protection, it is very similar to the Maglite Mag-Tac in this respect.

Surface machining is excellent and close to McGizmo, but a little behind.

In general, a rather interesting product.

 

[desert.snake]

Interestingly, now I got my hands on the bronze version. This is no longer a prototype, there is no memory of modes, when it is turned off on some of them after ~ 4 seconds, it is reset to 1 level the next time it is turned on, at -20 Celsius this time increases to ~ 6 seconds. Now PWM is not visible to the eye at all levels. Another unusual point - on a slightly discharged 18650 battery (3.8 V) after it has worked at levels 4-5, the next switch to 1 mode shows clearly less than 1 lumen and a gradual increase in brightness to 1 lumen. The beam shape is very similar as in Malkoff 16650, but in Malkoff, the transition from the hot spot to the spill is slightly smoother, here they are, the photo is discolored. Unprotected batteries can be made to work by adding a little solder. Quite heavy, I do not have scales, but together with the batteries it turned out to achieve a balance with such an arrangement, ~1.81-1.85 times.

 

[desert.snake]

And in continuation of the topic. I here decided to try the effects of ammonia 10% on aluminum bronze (regular ammonia from a pharmacy to bring to life). Effect turned out to be 3:
- Parts completely immersed in ammonia are covered with a dark brown layer, durable and similar to burnt wood. The parts that were on the border of air and ammonia have a clear border and are slightly greenish. The patina is strong enough, but eventually wears off.
- The ammonia somehow loosened the threads on the bezel. That is, before I could not move it with my hands, after this procedure the bezel moved easily and I was able to unscrew it. I have a feeling that there should be 2 o-rings instead of one (there is a groove for the ring). Now I am more calm about the possibility of overheating and thermal degradation of the LED, since now everything is easy to change.
- After screwing the bezel all the way in, I found that the bezel was not fully screwed in from the factory, as now mine was ~30 degrees more screwed in than it was originally. This is noticeable due to the way the non-oxidized part came out into the light. That is, if I decided to stand with him in the shower for more time than I usually stay there, then the water could well seep under the glass due to insufficient pressure.

 

[offset_crown]

Hey all, occasional reader - first time poster.

So I've been a LONG time fan of Muyshondt, back since the early twist Aeons. I finally got the funds squared away and I pulled the trigger on a Flieger that arrived today, and hopefully a Aeon next week.

Ok, so, my Flieger arrived today, and the website says it's supposed to include a plastic spacer to accept CR123's. My light didn't include this spacer, but it seems to be able to run CR123's without it. Will that damage the light? What exactly does it accomplish? (I'm only using CR's as the native cell isn't available at The moment.)

I emailed Muyshondt, and they said that it should have arrived with one. I responded asking for one, or if they can send me on in some capacity and they haven't responded. Fingers crossed I don't have to send the darn thing back…

 

[thenikjones]

^^^ the spacer should be to stop the CR123 rattling in the body - they are slimmer than an 18650. Don't think not having the sleeve will cause you an issue.

My Beagle was supposed to come with a sleeve and it didn't. Disappointing to hear other people Have experienced the same.

 

[offset_crown]

Forgot to circle back..

Turns out I'm the newbie idiot in the room lol. I heard back from Muyshondt and the sleeve actually came installed, it's black and it was just such a tight fit and so thin, I didn't think it was already installed. First time for everything.

I'll still chalk it up to a lack of instructions. I love my Flieger and Aeon, but I admit their CS is painful and feels lacking.. It always kind of feels like M is on the verge of going out of business *shoulder shrug*