Don't know if this has been found, the throw monster D-mini and the recent new 2-stage light FREE.LIGHT SPARTANIAN , their tail caps are compatible, my D-mini works very well with Spartanian's 2-stage tail cap.
My 2-stage D-mini
- Thread starter Chao
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FlashKat
Flashlight Enthusiast
You can order the VINET tailcaps separately from www.dealextreme.com after you email Kyle or Melissa and request the order. The new VINET tailcaps are not stiff like they use to be...they have the perfect feel now. They use to be super stiff.
EngrPaul said:
I don't like how the VINET tail switch compares in quality. Although it gives the Lumapower dual output capability, I would much rather have a Lumapower quality tailcap with dual modes.
The VINET has an aluminum ring turned down against a ring that has solder bumps on it. In the BLIMP, this is a known source of flickering. When you loosen the tailcap, the aluminum ring often loosens too. Not really a problem if you don't mind carrying a pair of needle-nose pliers with you to tighten it each battery change
The VINET has an aluminum ring turned down against a ring that has solder bumps on it. In the BLIMP, this is a known source of flickering. When you loosen the tailcap, the aluminum ring often loosens too. Not really a problem if you don't mind carrying a pair of needle-nose pliers with you to tighten it each battery change
To clarify my concern about the VINET quality, see the following pictures.
The aluminum ring is pressed on by the back of the tailcap when you tighten after a battery change. This unloads the threads and allows the aluminum ring to move. When you loosen the tailcap, the high friction of aluminum on aluminum loosens the ring.
Disassembled, you can see that the contact interface with the switchboard is tin/lead solder, pressed on by the aluminum ring. This is a poor choice for contact materials, especially when there isn't reliable source of spring force (if you tighten down the aluminum ring really hard, the soft tin/lead just displaces).
Here's one more problem that explains how hard it can be to activate the switch. The little piece of plastic does not come close to fitting the rubber boot. It can move all around. When it's not centered, a press of the tailcap does not directly actuate the middle of the switch. Instead, the vector of force is at a significant angle. Add this to an already stiff switch, and you have an annoying switch action.
The aluminum ring is pressed on by the back of the tailcap when you tighten after a battery change. This unloads the threads and allows the aluminum ring to move. When you loosen the tailcap, the high friction of aluminum on aluminum loosens the ring.
Disassembled, you can see that the contact interface with the switchboard is tin/lead solder, pressed on by the aluminum ring. This is a poor choice for contact materials, especially when there isn't reliable source of spring force (if you tighten down the aluminum ring really hard, the soft tin/lead just displaces).
Here's one more problem that explains how hard it can be to activate the switch. The little piece of plastic does not come close to fitting the rubber boot. It can move all around. When it's not centered, a press of the tailcap does not directly actuate the middle of the switch. Instead, the vector of force is at a significant angle. Add this to an already stiff switch, and you have an annoying switch action.
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