BigHonu
Flashlight Enthusiast
LS20
On Paper
On paper, the LS20 just doesn't have the 'IT' factor.
Nothing really stands out to make people sit up and say 'WOW'.
The dual light source format has been done before with varying stages of success.
It boasts three 3mm wide-angle Nichias and a relatively unknown Osram product that is a so-so performer when compared to the higher flux Cree/Seoul/Luxeon offerings.
This is all housed in a package that is on the larger and heavier end of current CR123a offerings, and can only take primaries as a power source.
Runtime on low and high is pretty respectable, but there are other multi-level lights that can run longer and offer a wider dynamic range.
The cool tint of the LEDs used seem to be contradictory to the path most LED users are following (warmer colors) these days.
Despite its titanium construction, and eye-pleasing design, it is not a particularly stellar combination of traits, especially when one takes into account the price of the light and the improving mass production market.
HOWEVER, that is just a look at the light 'on paper', and if you were to armchair-judge it strictly on it's stats (as I did initially), then you would be missing out on a truly ground-breaking light. In use, there is a synergy of size, components, and design that elevates this light's performance well beyond the sum of its parts.
From the outside:
What immediately jumped out at me is the size of the light. FINALLY we have a 1" OD dual-light-source head!! The smaller form factor will undoubtedly ensure more pocket time compared to the LS27, A2, and Kroma which are all larger.
Length (3.5 inches) is a little longer than the Ti-PD, but still is comfortable to hold in numerous grips.
The weight of the light is substantial (3.5oz) and heavier than most other 1x123 lights I have, but essentially a non-factor for me. The only time I notice it is when I try to lip-hold the light for an extended period.
The change in the tail section opening is very subtle when compared against the original PD, but the change makes a big difference in use. With the Ti-PD, I always felt I needed to use the tip of my thumb to activate the piston. The new design allows me to use more of the pad section making holding on to the light with wet hands much easier.
Finish came with some minor scuffs here and there which I immediately added to by throwing the light into my pocket with my keys and Ti-money clip. Machining is excellent with no burrs or rough spots.
I'm indifferent on the aesthetics of the teardrop flutes, but it does serve its purpose well from a functional standpoint.
The dual o-ring retention system for the lens is elegant, though extra care is needed to keep the outer o-ring in good condition as it is the most exposed. I have seen some of Don's pics with the light underwater, so I am confident in its ability to keep the moisture out as long as I do my part with the proper maintenance.
The tiny cutouts in the bezel portion allow just enough light to escape and let you know that your light is still on if it is set bezel down.
The clip is one of the best clips out there bar none. Like the one on a Sebenza, or one of Tom Mayo's clips on his custom knives, it is not only a great carry option, but a functional part of the way the tool is used. It is effective as an anti-roll feature, and is shaped and tapered in such a way as to not interfere with the one's grip on the light. I'd even go so far to say that actually enhances the grip in some instances. With that said, this clip came set too tight for my liking but was easily adjusted.
The tritium vial in the bottom of the piston is one of my all time favorite 'bling' additions that is also a highly functional find-me feature.
In action
While I am a fan of the multi-click interfaces of the LionCub and the GDuP, the dual level switch that came out with the SF A2, L1, and subsequently in the PD design is my all time favorite UI. It is simple, effective, efficient, and nothing I don't need. The best thing is that I don't need to concentrate on using the light, I can just use the light.
Momentary action on the LS20 is MUCH easier than the original Ti-PD. My Ti-PD took a long time to break in and the LS20 feels sweet right out of the box. Easy to hold momentary on in high-mode for sustained periods.
Threads are very smooth. Absolutely no grit, and no need to break in the twisty action as was needed with its older brother. I can easily turn the head with thumb and fore-finger for one-handed activation.
While the LS20 is not slippery, I'd prefer a beadblast finish for additional grip, even if I prefer the looks of the machined titanium.
Beam characteristics on Low
On low the 3mm Nichia DS provides a wide cone of light. Not nearly as wide as the flood of a Mule, but not any where near the concentrated spot of the typical reflector based light either. The beam angle and resulting cone produces an OUTSTANDING close range light. Absent are the tunnel vision effect and the 'follow the bouncing ball' effect typical of using a focused beam at short distances. At arms length, the pattern easily fills up both pages of a children's book with an even flood.
The narrower angle also keeps glare down when you are on the business end of the light. With a light like the Mule in candle mode, I would have to stand well off axis to avoid the glare from the LED. With the LS20, I can be closer and not be bothered as much.
Due to the convergence of the three light sources, there are some MINOR beam artifacts that show up on smooth surfaces. Unless you are looking for them they are not noticeable in actual use.
Two out of the three LEDs have a cool tint, while the third is noticeably warmer. The overall effect on a white wall (if that matters to you) is a pinkish-purplish beam.
While color rendition is not stellar, it is SURPRISINGLY good as long as the volume of light is sufficient. The only colors that look unusual are light tans, light grays, and whites as they end up taking on the purple/pink hue in the beam.
Greens, reds, blues come across with only minor shifts.
Dark violets are also fairly true, though lighter purples and pinks get an artificial boost and will stand out more than normal.
Yellows get washed out slightly and take on a ghostly hue. Neon type colors are affected the most and end up standing out more than they would normally do. Not a bad thing IMO as most safety related gear utilizes neons.
My depth perception is not affected by this particular tint. I'd feel comfortable walking any type of terrain I'd typically come across with this level of light. With good quality dark, there is adequate lighting for good visual feedback from 3 – 5 feet outside on darker surfaces, up to 8 feet on light surfaces, and 10 – 12 feet indoors. The beam extends well beyond these distances, but definition is quickly lost.
Beam characteristics on High
My initial hesitation in purchasing this light all came down to the relatively unknown Golden Dragon by Osram. It looked a little weak with regards to flux, AND was not my preference in terms of tint. I'm not a high-CRI nut (not yet anyway) but cool tints just are not my thing. I convinced myself that this was not the right LED for me and, despite being very interested in the overall design of the LS20, let the first wave pass.
I was content to read how happy people were with their lights, and determined to wait until there was a higher flux and better tint option.
Then Don started the thread about the importance of color rendition. The discussion there was thought provoking and ironically, reinforced a view I have had (though sometimes ignored) for a long time:
Seeing what is in the beam is more important than seeing what the beam looks like.
I took another look at the LS20 and decided to take a chance. The pocket friendly dual-light-source design was too good to pass up, and if I could just somehow get past the tint and flux of the Dragon and 'see what is in the beam', I'd be a step closer to flashlight Nirvana.
My conclusion is that the Osram Golden Dragon, paired with the LS20's main reflector is a pleasant surprise. No one with a Cree or SSC chip will be blown away by its performance, but that is not to say that the LED can't pump out the photons.
The small footprint of the die along with great reflector design produces a small, tight, long throwing spot with a decent amount of spill. I think Kiessling said it best when he said it was similar to a LuxIII with McR20.
Output is hard to gauge as the Dragon is on in conjunction with the 3mms, but I'd guess that it would best any LuxIII offering with a similar current bias. If I had to put a figure to it, I'd conservatively guess 50 nicely focused lumens out the front.
As noted by others, the tint is on the cool side, but complements the Nichias very well to produce a uniformly tinted corona. To my eyes, the beam is white but tinged with a hint of purple.
The resultant beam on high is more than enough output for object identification of distances up to 60 feet in most environments with good quality dark. The beam really seems to scatter quickly after that with quick loss of definition. Also, if there is any type of light pollution (i.e. street lamps), the effective distance is about halved.
Like the Nichias, color rendition is SURPRISINGLY good for close to medium ranges despite the beam tint. Deep reds will take on a violet hue, and dark blues tend to look darker than they would normally look.
My depth perception is not affected which really surprised me. My only explanation is that I am not particularly sensitive to the pinkish/purplish tint.
The LS20 is all about effective and reliable lighting. I would say that it is the Leatherman Multi-Tool of the flashlight world. It may not be spectacular, or top-notch in one measurable, but the way in which the LS20 delivers its light is undeniably practical and very satisfying to behold. It is tough, easily pocketable, can cover almost any situation with surprising effectiveness, and do so with one of the best UI's out there.
On Paper
On paper, the LS20 just doesn't have the 'IT' factor.
Nothing really stands out to make people sit up and say 'WOW'.
The dual light source format has been done before with varying stages of success.
It boasts three 3mm wide-angle Nichias and a relatively unknown Osram product that is a so-so performer when compared to the higher flux Cree/Seoul/Luxeon offerings.
This is all housed in a package that is on the larger and heavier end of current CR123a offerings, and can only take primaries as a power source.
Runtime on low and high is pretty respectable, but there are other multi-level lights that can run longer and offer a wider dynamic range.
The cool tint of the LEDs used seem to be contradictory to the path most LED users are following (warmer colors) these days.
Despite its titanium construction, and eye-pleasing design, it is not a particularly stellar combination of traits, especially when one takes into account the price of the light and the improving mass production market.
HOWEVER, that is just a look at the light 'on paper', and if you were to armchair-judge it strictly on it's stats (as I did initially), then you would be missing out on a truly ground-breaking light. In use, there is a synergy of size, components, and design that elevates this light's performance well beyond the sum of its parts.
From the outside:
What immediately jumped out at me is the size of the light. FINALLY we have a 1" OD dual-light-source head!! The smaller form factor will undoubtedly ensure more pocket time compared to the LS27, A2, and Kroma which are all larger.
Length (3.5 inches) is a little longer than the Ti-PD, but still is comfortable to hold in numerous grips.
The weight of the light is substantial (3.5oz) and heavier than most other 1x123 lights I have, but essentially a non-factor for me. The only time I notice it is when I try to lip-hold the light for an extended period.
The change in the tail section opening is very subtle when compared against the original PD, but the change makes a big difference in use. With the Ti-PD, I always felt I needed to use the tip of my thumb to activate the piston. The new design allows me to use more of the pad section making holding on to the light with wet hands much easier.
Finish came with some minor scuffs here and there which I immediately added to by throwing the light into my pocket with my keys and Ti-money clip. Machining is excellent with no burrs or rough spots.
I'm indifferent on the aesthetics of the teardrop flutes, but it does serve its purpose well from a functional standpoint.
The dual o-ring retention system for the lens is elegant, though extra care is needed to keep the outer o-ring in good condition as it is the most exposed. I have seen some of Don's pics with the light underwater, so I am confident in its ability to keep the moisture out as long as I do my part with the proper maintenance.
The tiny cutouts in the bezel portion allow just enough light to escape and let you know that your light is still on if it is set bezel down.
The clip is one of the best clips out there bar none. Like the one on a Sebenza, or one of Tom Mayo's clips on his custom knives, it is not only a great carry option, but a functional part of the way the tool is used. It is effective as an anti-roll feature, and is shaped and tapered in such a way as to not interfere with the one's grip on the light. I'd even go so far to say that actually enhances the grip in some instances. With that said, this clip came set too tight for my liking but was easily adjusted.
The tritium vial in the bottom of the piston is one of my all time favorite 'bling' additions that is also a highly functional find-me feature.
In action
While I am a fan of the multi-click interfaces of the LionCub and the GDuP, the dual level switch that came out with the SF A2, L1, and subsequently in the PD design is my all time favorite UI. It is simple, effective, efficient, and nothing I don't need. The best thing is that I don't need to concentrate on using the light, I can just use the light.
Momentary action on the LS20 is MUCH easier than the original Ti-PD. My Ti-PD took a long time to break in and the LS20 feels sweet right out of the box. Easy to hold momentary on in high-mode for sustained periods.
Threads are very smooth. Absolutely no grit, and no need to break in the twisty action as was needed with its older brother. I can easily turn the head with thumb and fore-finger for one-handed activation.
While the LS20 is not slippery, I'd prefer a beadblast finish for additional grip, even if I prefer the looks of the machined titanium.
Beam characteristics on Low
On low the 3mm Nichia DS provides a wide cone of light. Not nearly as wide as the flood of a Mule, but not any where near the concentrated spot of the typical reflector based light either. The beam angle and resulting cone produces an OUTSTANDING close range light. Absent are the tunnel vision effect and the 'follow the bouncing ball' effect typical of using a focused beam at short distances. At arms length, the pattern easily fills up both pages of a children's book with an even flood.
The narrower angle also keeps glare down when you are on the business end of the light. With a light like the Mule in candle mode, I would have to stand well off axis to avoid the glare from the LED. With the LS20, I can be closer and not be bothered as much.
Due to the convergence of the three light sources, there are some MINOR beam artifacts that show up on smooth surfaces. Unless you are looking for them they are not noticeable in actual use.
Two out of the three LEDs have a cool tint, while the third is noticeably warmer. The overall effect on a white wall (if that matters to you) is a pinkish-purplish beam.
While color rendition is not stellar, it is SURPRISINGLY good as long as the volume of light is sufficient. The only colors that look unusual are light tans, light grays, and whites as they end up taking on the purple/pink hue in the beam.
Greens, reds, blues come across with only minor shifts.
Dark violets are also fairly true, though lighter purples and pinks get an artificial boost and will stand out more than normal.
Yellows get washed out slightly and take on a ghostly hue. Neon type colors are affected the most and end up standing out more than they would normally do. Not a bad thing IMO as most safety related gear utilizes neons.
My depth perception is not affected by this particular tint. I'd feel comfortable walking any type of terrain I'd typically come across with this level of light. With good quality dark, there is adequate lighting for good visual feedback from 3 – 5 feet outside on darker surfaces, up to 8 feet on light surfaces, and 10 – 12 feet indoors. The beam extends well beyond these distances, but definition is quickly lost.
Beam characteristics on High
My initial hesitation in purchasing this light all came down to the relatively unknown Golden Dragon by Osram. It looked a little weak with regards to flux, AND was not my preference in terms of tint. I'm not a high-CRI nut (not yet anyway) but cool tints just are not my thing. I convinced myself that this was not the right LED for me and, despite being very interested in the overall design of the LS20, let the first wave pass.
I was content to read how happy people were with their lights, and determined to wait until there was a higher flux and better tint option.
Then Don started the thread about the importance of color rendition. The discussion there was thought provoking and ironically, reinforced a view I have had (though sometimes ignored) for a long time:
Seeing what is in the beam is more important than seeing what the beam looks like.
I took another look at the LS20 and decided to take a chance. The pocket friendly dual-light-source design was too good to pass up, and if I could just somehow get past the tint and flux of the Dragon and 'see what is in the beam', I'd be a step closer to flashlight Nirvana.
My conclusion is that the Osram Golden Dragon, paired with the LS20's main reflector is a pleasant surprise. No one with a Cree or SSC chip will be blown away by its performance, but that is not to say that the LED can't pump out the photons.
The small footprint of the die along with great reflector design produces a small, tight, long throwing spot with a decent amount of spill. I think Kiessling said it best when he said it was similar to a LuxIII with McR20.
Output is hard to gauge as the Dragon is on in conjunction with the 3mms, but I'd guess that it would best any LuxIII offering with a similar current bias. If I had to put a figure to it, I'd conservatively guess 50 nicely focused lumens out the front.
As noted by others, the tint is on the cool side, but complements the Nichias very well to produce a uniformly tinted corona. To my eyes, the beam is white but tinged with a hint of purple.
The resultant beam on high is more than enough output for object identification of distances up to 60 feet in most environments with good quality dark. The beam really seems to scatter quickly after that with quick loss of definition. Also, if there is any type of light pollution (i.e. street lamps), the effective distance is about halved.
Like the Nichias, color rendition is SURPRISINGLY good for close to medium ranges despite the beam tint. Deep reds will take on a violet hue, and dark blues tend to look darker than they would normally look.
My depth perception is not affected which really surprised me. My only explanation is that I am not particularly sensitive to the pinkish/purplish tint.
The LS20 is all about effective and reliable lighting. I would say that it is the Leatherman Multi-Tool of the flashlight world. It may not be spectacular, or top-notch in one measurable, but the way in which the LS20 delivers its light is undeniably practical and very satisfying to behold. It is tough, easily pocketable, can cover almost any situation with surprising effectiveness, and do so with one of the best UI's out there.
Ok, I`ll read it. 
