My first mag led mod - tri SSC P4

[ryball]

First I would like to thank everyone here. There is no way I could have done this without you all and this great resource/website.

This thread helped me out immensely: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=85713

Here is my parts list:

Mag 2C host
3x SSC P4 stars
3x IMS 20mm reflectors
shark driver
PTS2 tri-sink
Deans micro plugs
UCL glass
24awg wire
2x AW's protected 18650's
Arctic Alumina

I will be switching to modamag's clicky tail cap as soon as I get a cut-down mag c body and a couple of AW's C li-ions. It looks like I'll be needing around a 127mm tube. I have been hitting up TAP plastics and am still playing with ways to get a positive contact to get rid of the stock switch.

Here's some pics:

I drilled a hole in the ecan end of the PTS2. I'll use this as my negative path as soon as I switch to a tail cap.

Here is my crappy soldering job.

Here is my messy potting job on the shark driver. I used some Dean's micro plugs to connect the shark to the modified stock switch.

Here is the finished product. I ended up having to remove the retaining ring that holds the stock switch in. Even though I had the micro plugs installed, it made it a lot easier to get the whole assembly back into the body without the ring.

I was scared out of my mind the first time I flipped the switch. Whew!!! Works great!!! This thing is super bright!

Here are some of my earlier threads on this project:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=160050
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=160987

I'll post more when I get rid of the stock switch, get a cut-down mag body, and move to the tail clicky.

 

[snipinglight]

Ryboy those solder joints between LEDS doesn't look good. Maybe u should do it again with sufficient flux. Looks like a cold solder joint, but I could be wrong.

 

[ryball]

:help:Cold solder joint? Please explain. I suck at the soldering. :sick2:

 

[lexina]

I think a cold solder joint is one where the solder is actually just sitting on top of the surface and not really bonded to it. Usually this happens if not enough heat is applied to the surface - flux would help too.

 

[snipinglight]

Lexina is right! The solder must flow onto the PCB and form a 'seemless' joint and not like the one you have which is ball like structure. Apply sufficient heat to the PCB with molten solder and use flux.

 

[ryball]

I need a new soldering iron. :sigh: :thanks:

 

[snipinglight]

The Japanese brand goot is sufficient, using fine tip but not too fine unless you are doing very fine soldering like SMT components. Good Luck. Remember to protect the LEDs with some kind of tape in case the flux starts to splutter over the heat of the soldering tip. Good Luck

I need a new soldering iron. :sigh: :thanks:

 

[lexina]

I need a new soldering iron. :sigh: :thanks:

I think you did very well for your first led mod! Most people wouldn't attempt a tri-led with driver board for their first mod! :goodjob: I also think that modamag's suggestion to use a bi-pin connector was brilliant - without it, it would have been a nightmare to screw/unscrew the bezel. And yes, you don't need the retainer ring.

 

[Ikonomi]

Hey, don't sweat the soldering. If it looks like a cold joint just go back and use a desoldering braid to wick away the old stuff, and solder again.

Here, let me tell you a secret... I have been using the wrong solder for almost four years now! I got a big spool when I was first learning and didn't know any better, and never thought to check until two days ago. It was a big, thick gauge, lead-free solder. You can imagine that soldering was an absolute nightmare, and as such I avoided it as much as possible. I got cold, lumpy joints all the time, and that stupid solder ate up my tips.

So I went to Fry's and bought some rosin flux core 63/37 (63% tin, 37% lead) solder, and wow, soldering is so easy now! I am still stuck with a Weller 25W iron, but it works great for what I use it for (LEDs, PCBs, switches, plugs). It's almost impossible to make a cold joint.

...

Um... Tangent there. Sorry. What I meant to say was: Great job!! It looks terrific, especially for your first mod. Did you modify the reflectors at all to fit the Seouls?

I think the Mag 2C form factor is just great. At some point you might even consider stepping up to AW's C size LiIons if you need longer runtime. It should be a considerable boost. But awesome job!

 

[ryball]

Thanks, guys.

Yeah I saw that people have been removing the .03 or whatever from the reflectors, but I just put them in, it looks fine, so I'm leaving it for now.

I am going to move to AW's Li-ion C's and a cut down body hopefully in the next month or so. I'll update with pics when I get it done.