My new Novatac EDC 85-T has a problem

[dcbeane]

:thinking:...or I think it does. When I got it I opened the packaging and clicked the switch to see if it had a battery in it and nothing happend. I went to get a battery and opened it and there was a battery in it. I closed it again with the same battery it came with and it flashed 1 time and then came on high on the 1st click like it is supposed to. I have had some problem navigating to the low and mid power settings but with a few clicks I find them. The stobe is always where it is supposed to be ...one click for high and then hold the button down on the 2nd click.
As long as I use the light in an hour or 2 everything it fine. If it sits in my pocket for a few hours it sometimes will not turn on unless I unscrew it again. The situation seems to have improved somewhat in that the nonworking events are fewer but I ordered this light for a specific purpose. I am planning a trip out of state where I can not carry my S&W640 and I would like to atleast have the element of surprise in my pocket and.... Wait!!.... let me unscrew might light before I blind you! it just not going to cut it.:shakehead
I wanted to put a 120-P flush switch on it but I can't unscrew the switch on this light by hand. I refuse to scratch it up.
I bought this from Light Hound. I'm reluctant to try and return it because I don't have time for a round trip before I need the light.

Am I doing something wrong with this light??? Am I in some mode that I am not supposed to be in? I did the battery detect function eventhogh the battery is not rechargeable but that did not change anything.

I have other lights like a Surefire E1B and some older Inovas but nothing quite as pocket friendly as a Novatac without a clip...and the flush switch like I planned on. I'm glad I did not order the switch. I wanted to wait and see if I could open it first after reading on the forum where some seemed to be "welded on".
Thanks for any and all replies. I used to come to this forum often but have not been a regular reader for a year or more.

 

[datiLED]

Try replacing the battery, and doing a battery detect. (Look in the owner's manual. I can't remember the steps from memory.) I had some crazy problems with my NovaTac 120-E, and that solved them instantly.

 

[dcbeane]

One more thing I discovered today. When it won't come on I can tap it on something that then when I click the switch it comes on.
I just fell over on my desk and when I picked it up it would not come on until I tapped it again.

Trying several times to replicate this yeilded nothing. Now it works on the first click every time.

strange....

 

[weklund]

I purchased a 85T from Lighthound as well and it had a few issues. I suggest you call NovaTac and ask to speak with Jason. He will help you troubleshoot your issues over the phone. If it comes to sending it in to NovaTac for repair the turn around is very swift. Great people to deal with. Hope things work out quickly for your trip.
Regards
Will.

Attn: Jason

NovaTac, Inc.
300 Carlsbad Village Drive
Suite 108A-100
Carlsbad, CA 92008
Ph: 760-431-7370
Fax: 760-431-7375

 

[weklund]

+1 I have cured startup issues with a freshly charged RCR123 or fresh standard CR123A. Initial emitter flash when the head makes contact with the battery is normal.

Try replacing the battery, and doing a battery detect. (Look in the owner's manual. I can't remember the steps from memory.) I had some crazy problems with my NovaTac 120-E, and that solved them instantly.

 

[No really]

I am a fan of J frames, and Novatacs, own a few of each, fond of all. Power supply is the immediate suspect, swap batteries with a detect/reset, as Datileds suggests. You have done all any user can do, if the light still hangs, You're looking at a return.

LightHound is a great operation

You may have to make do "short-armed":sigh: with your SF.


"...I wanted to put a 120-P flush switch on it but I can't unscrew the switch on this light by hand. I refuse to scratch it up..."

If you're not gloved up, the flush switch is the way to go

Strap wrench, or rubber bands/inner-tube cuttings in the jaws of a pair of Channel Locks will work.

I've had a chance to look at the Shenzhen Novatacs, and their finish is even more fragile, be careful

 

[dcbeane]

Thanks everybody!:thumbsup:

 

[fyrstormer]

Mind if I ask why you got an 85 instead of a 120? Is there some functional difference between the two besides the brightness?

 

[dcbeane]

I'm new to Novatec lights and the 85-T is on sale for $59.99 at Light Hound.:naughty:
The 85-T is HA III and made in the USA. The newer cheaper "storm" lights are HA II and made in China .... and they are $89.
The EDC 120-P is $129. for the black one and $169.:sick2: for the gray one.
There is an EDC 120 for for $93.74
I wanted the strobe. I had never even touched a Novatac light before.
I'll probably eventually get another one and this one will get lost in my wife's purse. I know this is blasphemy around here but I think 85 lumens is enough light for pocket carry. Longer run time is more important to me.
I know that comes with more efficient newer LEDs... along with more lumens.... fine.

I changed out the battery. What was in it was a Duracell that is marked 2/3A "for pack assembly and memory use only" Inked on the side is " 07/04 " Is that the date??

 

[dcbeane]

I think the old battery was the problem.
What had me confused there was the light worked fine on high. It seems the battery works well on high but something happens when there is no power drain. When I disconnected the battery and reconnected it the light worked again. Finding levels is also much easier now.

 

[BigBluefish]

Why the 85? Have you seen the price?

I think the NovaTac 85 T is the way to go, with those still at Lighthound.

I don't see much point in spending more money for a NovaTac 120. The differnece between 85 and 120 is really very slight in practical terms. If you want more output, I think you'd be better off getting a Ra for the extra money you'd spend on any of the NovaTac 120s Whith the Ras, you can get lights with burst output of 140 or 170 lumens, and highs with 1+ hours or runtime of 120 or more lumens.