My next AA/14500 Anduril light has been announced

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jon_slider said:
And since KR1AA uses an Optic, Im hopeful there will be front aux lights, similar to DA1K:
Click to expand...
So the new light uses a TIR lens instead of a reflector?
That's a negative in my book, alas.
I guess it helps to keep down the length, especially given that the rear clicky adds length. But I would prefer a reflector out front with no rear clicky, rather than a clicky with a TIR.
Luckily, there are lights for every taste out there, so this one doesn't have to suit me.
 
jacobd said:
I've never been a fan of the KR1s tail switch (I'm a big fan of the D3AAs switch)
Click to expand...
ah, good point, I agree the D3AA recessed switch is excellent.. as good at avoiding accidental activation in pocket as a Zebra.. I dont need to lock out with either of those..

I just prefer tailswitches, I like the TS10 switch very much.. it does not turn on in my pocket, so also no need to lockout.. fortunately, because physical lockout does not work on the TS10, because the dual battery tube keeps the switch powered, and pressing the switch w the head loosened, causes factory reset, erasing any changed options settings and reverting to default.

for example I set front Aux to dim Red, works well on my nightstand.. Im hoping to have the same option w KR1AA (so I can avoid any need to put a trit in the tailbutton)

KR1 is also a dual body tube, and though Ive not tried one, I expect the same behavior as the TS10.. if the switch gets pushed w the head loosened I expect factory reset (unconfirmed)..
defloyd77 said:
hopefully Hank improves upon the TS10's tailswitch, which turns on way too easily unintentionally.
Click to expand...
I have not had that issue.. but I do believe it could be true in your carry style.. Im pretty careful

the tailswitch I found too sensitive was on the FWAA and FW3AA.. solved by adding an O ring under the button, to increase resistance.. But Ive never felt a need to do that to my TS10.. I even measured the pound pressure to actuate those tailbuttons.. and the TS10 is as resistant as a FWAA with the addition of an O ring.

I prefer not to use the 4 click electronic lockout on Anduril lights.. I dont want to have to do that every time I use and store a light.. I just click on, click off.. easy peasy.

lampeDépêche said:
I would prefer a reflector out front with no rear clicky
Click to expand...
stick w a zebra then.. agree, tastes vary, no judgement.. remains to be seen how the Tir beam behaves on the KR1AA... but so far, I have no issues with my single LED Tir experience in TS10SG.. it has good central hotspot and throw.

There is a wide range of beam angles with a single LED Tir.. Surefire uses very narrow angle Tir for some of their throwers and weapon mounted lights..

remains to be seen what Hank has designed for the KR1AA optic beam angle..

Hank just shared this photo.. confirms Aux: me so happy!
Screen Shot 2025-10-03 at 7.39.19 AM.png

beam angle remains to be seen.. but I wont be disappointed if its not a super narrow thrower.. its a small AA/14500 light.. will suit my personal Urban EDC well.. and likely reaches farther in my yard than the very floody D3AA Triple Tir.

Hank also posted the length: "About 79.5mm, the same as D3AA."
(fwiw my D3AA actually measures 78.2mm on my calipers.. official spec length is 79mm.. were talking very small differences)
 
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jacobd said:
That would find a home in all my customs
Click to expand...
I hope it happens for you.. but thefreeman has been ill for quite some time.. not sure he will be producing anything for a while..
Im still waiting for him to build me a Zebra w Aduril and an illuminated button ;-)

Im guessing your customs w mechanical switches, lack Aux lights? (simpler electronics?. I dont know what LuciDrV2 offers.. no experience).. ;-)
 
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jon_slider said:
I hope it happens for you.. but thefreeman has been ill for quite some time.. not sure he will be producing anything for a while..
Im still waiting for him to build me a Zebra w Aduril and an illuminated button ;-)

Im guessing your customs w mechanical switches, lack Aux lights? (simpler electronics?. I dont know what LuciDrV2 offers.. no experience).. ;-)
Click to expand...
LuciDRV is more comprehensive group selector, i believe it predates Convoy's UI, but they're similar. I have a light with the first iteration of LuciDrv, i believe it has 22 mode groups, half with all assortments of LMH, HML, LH, MH, H only, strobes, etc. and the other half with last mode memory but the same groupings.
 
jon_slider said:
ah, good point, I agree the D3AA recessed switch is excellent.. as good at avoiding accidental activation in pocket as a Zebra.. I dont need to lock out with either of those..

I just prefer tailswitches, I like the TS10 switch very much.. it does not turn on in my pocket, so also no need to lockout.. fortunately, because physical lockout does not work on the TS10, because the dual battery tube keeps the switch powered, and pressing the switch w the head loosened, causes factory reset, erasing any changed options settings and reverting to default.

for example I set front Aux to dim Red, works well on my nightstand.. Im hoping to have the same option w KR1AA (so I can avoid any need to put a trit in the tailbutton)

KR1 is also a dual body tube, and though Ive not tried one, I expect the same behavior as the TS10.. if the switch gets pushed w the head loosened I expect factory reset (unconfirmed)..

I have not had that issue.. but I do believe it could be true in your carry style.. Im pretty careful

the tailswitch I found too sensitive was on the FWAA and FW3AA.. solved by adding an O ring under the button, to increase resistance.. But Ive never felt a need to do that to my TS10.. I even measured the pound pressure to actuate those tailbuttons.. and the TS10 is as resistant as a FWAA with the addition of an O ring.

I prefer not to use the 4 click electronic lockout on Anduril lights.. I dont want to have to do that every time I use and store a light.. I just click on, click off.. easy peasy.


stick w a zebra then.. agree, tastes vary, no judgement.. remains to be seen how the Tir beam behaves on the KR1AA... but so far, I have no issues with my single LED Tir experience in TS10SG.. it has good central hotspot and throw.

There is a wide range of beam angles with a single LED Tir.. Surefire uses very narrow angle Tir for some of their throwers and weapon mounted lights..

remains to be seen what Hank has designed for the KR1AA optic beam angle..

Hank just shared this photo.. confirms Aux: me so happy!
View attachment 85044
beam angle remains to be seen.. but I wont be disappointed if its not a super narrow thrower.. its a small AA/14500 light.. will suit my personal Urban EDC well.. and likely reaches farther in my yard than the very floody D3AA Triple Tir.

Hank also posted the length: "About 79.5mm, the same as D3AA."
(fwiw my D3AA actually measures 78.2mm on my calipers.. official spec length is 79mm.. were talking very small differences)
Click to expand...
I prefer more throw, as it's easier to apply a diffuser for flood than to swap the optic for throw.

In any case, MUST have high CRI with specs and application at least as good as the 519A.
 
jon_slider said:
Hank just shared this photo.. confirms Aux: me so happy!
Click to expand...
When I saw the very first photo you posted in this thread, I noticed the crescent of blue light on the front and assumed it was from Aux emitters. Very cool!

Just measured my H53w, my life companion, and I see that it is about 77mm. So that means this new light is...basically the same length. Okay, despite the TIR, I'm thinking about it....
What should we be expecting for price-range?
 
dc38 said:
throw
high CRI
Click to expand...
yes, I believe the KR1AA has those design goals ;-)

lampeDépêche said:
price?
Click to expand...
I have not seen the price, weight, output throw, candela per lumen, nor release date of a KR1AA yet..

all the KR1AA detaila Ive seen so far, are coming from posts in this thread,

the H53 is exceptionally small, with a very narrow body, and the lowest weight of any of my 14500 lights. The D3AA is slightly longer, weighs more, and is thicker:
IMG_2426.jpg

a D3AA costs Half a Zebra ;-)
 
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dc38 said:
I prefer more throw, as it's easier to apply a diffuser for flood than to swap the optic for throw.

In any case, MUST have high CRI with specs and application at least as good as the 519A.
Click to expand...

I don't know what it is, but there's always something off looking with diffusered beams. Personally I'd rather carry 2 flashlights with different beams than a thrower and a diffuser, I mean most of us carry more than 1 light anyway, right?

I'm glad we'll likely have a variety of optics and different sized LEDs. I hope to end up with a high CRI mid range thrower.
 
defloyd77 said:
I don't know what it is, but there's always something off looking with diffusered beams. Personally I'd rather carry 2 flashlights with different beams than a thrower and a diffuser, I mean most of us carry more than 1 light anyway, right?

I'm glad we'll likely have a variety of optics and different sized LEDs. I hope to end up with a high CRI mid range thrower.
Click to expand...
Depends on the diffuser...I like one that diffuses out the artefacting and lightly smooths out the beam. Something between 87% to 93% transmission rate? A little less than scotch tape, basically.
 
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