my Ultrafire C3 Cree Extended

[Highwind]

it doesnt seem "bright" enough. am I being paranoid?

and another thing the batteries "shake" a tad in the tube.



any help?

 

[Dioni]

Wow..
I think its the biggest pic posted! I cant see anything.. sorry

Pay attention on the pic size limit.

 

[Ian2381]

That's better. Now I can clearly see the pic.:thumbsup:
You should make a spacer for your battery to eliminate the shake, based on my experoence DX lights like U C3 differs from one unit to another. maybe you should compare it to other reliable lights.

 

[Mike_TX]

Quick and easy spacer is a short length of plastic soda straw. Press it between the fingers and slide it in the tube beside the batteries. It works kinda like a spring to keep pressure against the battery(ies) and stop the rattle.

.
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[Surnia]

your request of brightness is pretty much useless when you're taking the photo with a Motorola Droid.... since you can't control aperature, ISO, and white balance. if you can get a camera where you can control all three, then you can use that as a comparison (with the same camera settings as them) against the reviews posted by csshih or selfbuilt to see approximately where your brightness is (granted its not going to be accurate).

My favourite battery shim is... a 5.4x10cm square of paper. roll it up, shove in batteries, and perfect shim. currently have it in with my TK-566, and my iTP SA2.

 

[kramer5150]

Rolled up paper inside the tube is always a popular solution.

FWIW, 1AA-NiMH lights are going to top out at ~100-120 Lumens MAX. The energy density of an AA NiMH and the efficiencies of todays emitters are the limiting factors. Its just not possible to get more than that out of that. You can spend a lot of $$$ on a 1AA light upgrade, only to net gain ~25 Lumens OTF.
See the bigchelis thread in my sig line.


So, I am not sure exactly what you were expecting, but obtaining more than ~120L OTF from 1xAA is not physically possible.