Need a 3.7v bulb for your E1E? Look here for an idea.

Crenshaw

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** usage with li-co, normal lithium ion cells may pose a danger. Best to use IMR cells. I will be switching over at some point*

I recently aquired an E-series head, and E1L body. I dont like using Primaries all that much, as i rather stockpile them, and use RCR for daily usage. I used the E2E bulb for awhile, but it wasnt doing the light justice.

i hope this doesnt constitute as a "joint shopping experience" empath.. 😱

but using this LA

So here is the Lamp Assembly itself

DSC05197.jpg



The Reflector can be screwed off. Remove the two orings, one at the base of the Brass (?) bit, and one around the bulb
DSC05198.jpg


You can then pry off the Brass bit, do this carefully. You could also de solder it, but i was Lazy

DSC05199.jpg


Next you need to desolder the Spring, the negative contact, from the lamp part. I used the reflector as a sort of, holder so that i wouldnt damage the bulb. In retrospect, i probably should have done this before removing the brass bit and the reflector

DSC05200.jpg


the easiest way i found to do this was the heat up the solder, and ask someone else to help you pry along the divide between the spring, and the board the bulb is on.

DSC05201.jpg


DSC05202.jpg


Now you need to trim the spring. You still need the spring, but its currenty too long. So cut it to about, slightly more then half its length.

You may also need to bend the end in, so it makes contact with the battery.

DSC05203.jpg


Now you need to use a soldering iron to clean up the board, because if there is an uneven amount of solder left over on either side, it will cause problems centering the bulb. ALternatively, do what i did, and use a file, which would actually give you a more level surface.

you also need to make a spacer. you can see there I used a bit solder. This works fine

DSC05204.jpg
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you can see the washer i tried, didnt work.COuldnt find a bigger one, but idealy i would use a washer. Im in the process of finding one

Since doing that, i have made one change, i am no longer using the solder as a spacer, as it caused problems with the centering. I improvised and cut off a piece from the spring that was de-soldered earlier.

here are some beamshots, I can only do comparative beam shots, so here you will see the MN01 and this bulb, up against my Quark Q35A on Max.

Quark on left, MN01 on right, slightly underexposed.
DSC05206.jpg


Quark on left, this bulb on right, a bit more exposed that the first one
DSC05208.jpg


I still encounter some problems with the bulb's centering, it takes a bit of experimentation, and also bending the bulb slightly this way and that after you have installed it, but hey, for $3.06, im not complaining.

hope this helps someone!

Crenshaw
 
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Or just get this?
e1eo.jpg

Party pooper:crackup:

We often mod existing retrofits because there are no commercial products available to meet the criteria of the user. This would be one of few rare occasions when we see talented cpf modders try in experiments to create a product that has already been made, created, field tested and technically reviewed.

Still, a mod is a mod, you've modded for fun, glad you had fun, but I agree that Outdoors Fanatic's recommendation is a much practical approach😀
 
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I specifically avoided mentioning lumens factory to avoid comparing the lamp assemblies.

But since you mention it, yes buying the lumen's factory bulb is more "complete", but im just saying, heres "one" idea for one if you would like a cheaper alternative.
I have no doubt that the lumens factory bulb might be brighter, and more robust and all. But still. a mods a mod. 😉


Crenshaw
 
I'd be less worried about centering with a length of wire/solder and more worried about an accidental short to +ve. Looks like an appropriately-sized washer would solve both issues.

That DX module isn't bad for a cheap lamp. I've been using one of those and the 15W 2-cell one in a couple of hosts. I don't know their longevity, though- I haven't used either enough to find out whereabouts they burn out.
 
Nice presentation, Crenshaw and good information, the rest of you.

The effort is appreciated. I enjoy looking at stuff like this.
 
Not sure if you already mentioned it, but you should only use IMR16340s with that lamp in a 1xRCR123 size application. Most of the D26 3.7V modules draw over 2 amps. It will kill a lithium cobalt cell in a couple dozen cycles.

Great cheap mod idea though!

-Eric
 
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I'd be less worried about centering with a length of wire/solder and more worried about an accidental short to +ve. Looks like an appropriately-sized washer would solve both issues.
yup, as i said, i stopped using the bit of solder, that was a quick fix for that moment, just to see if it works. Now, im using a bit of spring (thats pretty ahrd to bend, and cut) from the de-soldered spring. Its now a ring of metal, just the right size

thanks icebreak 🙂

mdocod, yes i did wonder if i should be using IMR cells with it. These seem to work alright with my current normal li-ons, but i plan to switch over to IMRs. I did try this with me AW cell, so i thought it might be safe, as AW's will cut off unsafe usage right?

I will add it to the main post. My li-ons are nearing the end of thier life i think, more than a year of usage already, and more then paid for thier cost. Time to replace!

Crenshaw
 
yup, as i said, i stopped using the bit of solder, that was a quick fix for that moment, just to see if it works. Now, im using a bit of spring (thats pretty ahrd to bend, and cut) from the de-soldered spring. Its now a ring of metal, just the right size

thanks icebreak 🙂

mdocod, yes i did wonder if i should be using IMR cells with it. These seem to work alright with my current normal li-ons, but i plan to switch over to IMRs. I did try this with me AW cell, so i thought it might be safe, as AW's will cut off unsafe usage right?

I will add it to the main post. My li-ons are nearing the end of thier life i think, more than a year of usage already, and more then paid for thier cost. Time to replace!

Crenshaw
AW cell, so i thought it might be safe, as AW's will cut off unsafe usage right?

No, it will not. You are running a very unsafe combination, your batteries are already damaged forever. You should only use IMRs with those bulbs.
 
Interesting mod! Thanks for sharing this informations.

What you belive to be the real wattage of this bulb that you using to mod [sku.3174]? 10w? would be more than LF EO-4?
 
Interesting mod! Thanks for sharing this informations.

What you belive to be the real wattage of this bulb that you using to mod [sku.3174]? 10w? would be more than LF EO-4?

i am not sure what the wattage is. According to some of the reviews, its definetly not 10w.

Im not sure how it will compare to the E0-4, dont have one.

However if there is a light that you have that i have, i can take a comparison for you

I have the Quark AA, 123, Fenix RB100, Tk10, mag85, stock 2d, 3c and some more.

Crenshaw
 
i am not sure what the wattage is. According to some of the reviews, its definetly not 10w.

Im not sure how it will compare to the E0-4, dont have one.

However if there is a light that you have that i have, i can take a comparison for you

I have the Quark AA, 123, Fenix RB100, Tk10, mag85, stock 2d, 3c and some more.

Crenshaw

I was reading about it and according to the mdocod incan guide, this bulb [sku.3174] has about 7w against 9w of the LF EO-4. Am I correct?

So this is a cheap and powerful mod to SF E1e. More powerful than LF EO-E1R and slightly less than the LF EO-4 modded. :thumbsup:

Could you compare it with some of yours incans 2D or 3C? 😀
 
You'd have to measure the bulb you have to be sure what sort of power consumption it actually runs at. "3.7V" tactical lamps have been sold from ~1.5-2.5A. The budget "dx/kd" bulbs probably change every so often, so anything in that chart may or may not be accurate for a particular revision of the bulb being sold there..

Not that it's a very big deal, the difference in output between the lowest and highest output is just about enough to notice but not enough to have a huge impact on usefulness.
 
You'd have to measure the bulb you have to be sure what sort of power consumption it actually runs at. "3.7V" tactical lamps have been sold from ~1.5-2.5A. The budget "dx/kd" bulbs probably change every so often, so anything in that chart may or may not be accurate for a particular revision of the bulb being sold there..

Not that it's a very big deal, the difference in output between the lowest and highest output is just about enough to notice but not enough to have a huge impact on usefulness.

Understood mdocod! I really believe that there is a wide variety of bulbs from DX, with various voltages and amps.

After this discussion, I'm thinking of buying a SF E1e and make a mod with this DX's lamp! I love these torches that use only a CR123A cell, especially if incan.
 
This was a noob question because the pyrex lenses are used in 9P too and several times with the P91 LA and +300 lumens. 😛

Then, better, how would the tailcap going with the amperage of this bulb?
 
This was a noob question because the pyrex lenses are used in 9P too and several times with the P91 LA and +300 lumens. 😛

Then, better, how would the tailcap going with the amperage of this bulb?
The SureFire M6 also uses the very same lenses. A typical SureFire clicky can handle 2A+ with no problems, and I don't think this Mod drains more than that. Several members here use a Z48/49 with the WA1111 with no failures, and I am using a Z48 with the IMR-M3T with no issues either (although I do not run this lamp for more than 5 minutes continuously with a clicky installed. You'll have no problems with your lamp, that bulb ins't that powerful. I'm sure the Strion lamp drawns more amps and people have been running the Fivemega E series Strion Mod for years...
 
The SureFire M6 also uses the very same lenses. A typical SureFire clicky can handle 2A+ with no problems, and I don't think this Mod drains more than that. Several members here use a Z48/49 with the WA1111 with no failures, and I am using a Z48 with the IMR-M3T with no issues either (although I do not run this lamp for more than 5 minutes continuously with a clicky installed. You'll have no problems with your lamp, that bulb ins't that powerful. I'm sure the Strion lamp drawns more amps and people have been running the Fivemega E series Strion Mod for years...

Thank you FF! :twothumbs
 
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