Need a brighter LED replacement for Stinger HP

[FightinCB]

I just replaced my Stinger HP bulb with a TerraLUX 3watt LED upgrade... It is not bright enough. I need a brighter LED replacement for work. Can someone lead in the right direction for a brighter drop in? If this is something that needs to be made, can someone hook me up with a link or something? Thanks.

 

[Gunner12]

What are you looking for?

Similar/more throw?

Just swapping in a current gen LED(the Seoul P4 U-bin works best for Luxeon replacements) will at least double the output with the same runtime. The current gen LEDs are at least twice as efficient as the last gen ones.

The best stock LED thrower can easily light things up 150+ meters away. It's the Dereelight DBS, 20000+ lux at one meter(Stinger drop-in is around 3000 lux at one meter) an at least 170 lumen out the front on high.

 

[FightinCB]

So how do I get a SSC P4 U-bin put on a Streamlight Stinger HP platform?

 

[forrest]

I also have the led upgrade for one of my stingers. It works o/k just the fact that it can run forever is great but the amount of light it puts out is disappointing to say the least. My task force blows it away in throw and brightness. As does my mag 4d. It would be nice to be able to upgrade the teeralux if possible!

 

[Gunner12]

This Drop-in right?

Looking at the picture the common way of swapping a Luxeon for a Seoul should work:

1. Open up the light
2. Desolder the Luxeon
3. Remove the Luxeon
4. Clean up the heatsink area where the LED touched(there should be some thermal compound behind the LED)
5. Apply a thin layer of AA to the heatsink.
6. Wait for the epoxy to partially cure and check form continuity.
7. If it's isolated, use the AA to epoxy the Seoul LED onto the surface, making sure the LED and the contacts are at the right place(+ and -).
8. Solder the LED in.
9. Reassemble the light.

You might have to raise the Seoul up a bit to make sure it is at the right focusing point. Around 0.030 inches should be good.

 

[FightinCB]

Gunner12,
I think thats a little over my head! I dont have the tools nor the know how! Does anyone on CPF do custom work like this?

 

[Gunner12]

It shouldn't be too hard a swap so there should be many people who can do the mod for you.

Maybe post a WTM(want to find modder, I just made that up buy they should understand) in this section and see who will be willing to mod it for you.

 

[FightinCB]

cool...thanks, I'll try posting over there. Thanks again.

 

[Gunner12]

No problem, it should work well for you.

You can also contact Milkyspit and see if he can fit 4 Rebel 100s in there, 300+ lumen shouldn't be a problem. Of course, there's the cost.

 

[forrest]

Hey Gunner, looks like an easy swap. But can you direct me to where I can get the proper seoul led and the aa, hopefully it's available from the same supplier, thanx; Forrest

 

[forrest]

Also is the seoul led the same diameter as the luxeon? The led looks like it's just sitting on top of the pillar of the mounting base, I want to attach a pict. but it says I cannot ??

 

[Gunner12]

For a picture, you'll first have a host it on a site then use the "

" button and add the picture's link.

The dimensions are the same as the Luxeon but you'll might have to move the Seoul up around 0.030 inches for the right focus. A flat copper thing should do.

AA is Arctic Alumina, most other Thermal compounds should also work. There are many sites but the two I'd recommend are DX if you want to go cheaper: Thermal Glue, Seoul, or the Sandwich Shoppie : Seoul, Thermal compound.

 

[forrest]

I did the seoul upgrade to my streamlight hp and it really made a difference!! Just thought I would let you`all know, thanx for the tip!!

 

[Daekar]

When are they going to come out with an LED version of the Ultrastinger? It drives me crazy, my Malkoff dropin is just as bright and will last a heck of a lot longer, but the Ultrastinger form factor is great. All they have to do is update the NiCad stick from junky cells to better NiCads... or even better, NiMH and revise their charge cradles so they won't trickle charge them to death. Then they just need a Cree + Optic and they get the same light, much longer runtime, and just as nice a beam pattern. Or if they're feeling lazy they can leave the battery the same and just change to the emitter and optics. Why is that so hard?