Need Better Headlamps

[Hitthespot]

First time in the Automotive section. I was driving through the country last night with a buddy. He said, "Do you have your bright lights on?" I said, "yes I do." The conversation went down hill from there. When I took my bright lights off he said I had the worst headlamps he has ever seen on a car. I told him I thought so too but I figured these eyes were just getting old.

I have a 2006 Subaru Outback. I bought what was suppose to be better than factory halogen bulbs but it did not help. It seems like part of the problem is the reflectors, they scatter the light too much. On top of this they don't seem bright enough or go far enough, even with the brights on.


Any sugggestions?

Thanks Bill

 

[-Virgil-]

The '05+ Subaru Legacy-based cars (including Outback, but not including the Baja pickup-thing if they were still making that in '05) actually have very good, well-focused headlamp optics. They do not "scatter the light too much". They come with long-life bulbs, though, which not only put out less light but also reduce the beam focus. You can easily and inexpensively improve their performance with carefully-chosen bulbs. "Carefully chosen" is the key; every single bulb out there is advertised as being an upgrade, and most of them are, at best, no better than a standard bulb. Most of them are considerably worse than standard. I would probably put the 65w Osram H7 bulbs in, but check with Dan Stern and see what he says.

The headlamps on your car have a sharp cutoff on low beam, making it very important that they be aimed correctly. There is only one correct aim setting; this is not something to play around with and set wherever you think you like it best. And it must be done carefully, precisely, and correctly; see here. This is a hassle, because even a lot of dealers do a halfway job of it at best, but it is worth your time and trouble to find someone who will do it right.

Don't drive around in traffic with your "brights" (high beams) on. It's not only illegal, it's also dangerous, no matter whether you get flashed or not.

 

[Alaric Darconville]

I bought what was suppose to be better than factory halogen bulbs but it did not help.

What bulb did you buy? Scheinwerfermann is absolutely right-- almost every "upgrade" bulb out there is poor for any number of reasons. Bad filament placement, blue-tinted glass, or both at the same time. The blue-tinted bulbs promise "whiter light" (but the light is less white because critical yellow and orange components of the light are removed), and in general they just blow chunks.

Due to the age of the car, there may be problems with the wiring from corrosion, so installing relays could help. Go to Daniel Stern Lighting once again to find out how to measure your voltage drop. If you do have voltage drop, then add a set of relays and sockets to your list of upgrades! Your friend will be suitably impressed.

Also, if your car is equipped with fog lights, don't turn them on to "supplement" the low beams in clear-weather driving. They add nothing meaningful to your driving experience, especially at highway speeds.

 

[Hitthespot]

actually have very good, well-focused headlamp optics. They do not "scatter the light too much". They come with long-life bulbs, though, which not only put out less light but also reduce the beam focus. I would probably put the 65w Osram H7 bulbs in, but check with Dan Stern and see what he says.

Don't drive around in traffic with your "brights" (high beams) on. It's not only illegal, it's also dangerous, no matter whether you get flashed or not.

They sure don't seem well focused. My E2DL is well focused. lol Also I wouldn't call them long life. I have replaced my bulbs on both sides twice already.

I never have my bright lights on in any kind of traffic. I try to be a safe driver, for me and other drivers.

I will check out the Osram H7 bulbs.

Thank You.

What bulb did you buy?
Due to the age of the car, there may be problems with the wiring from corrosion, so installing relays could help. Go to Daniel Stern Lighting once again to find out how to measure your voltage drop. If you do have voltage drop, then add a set of relays and sockets to your list of upgrades! Your friend will be suitably impressed.

Also, if your car is equipped with fog lights, don't turn them on to "supplement" the low beams in clear-weather driving. They add nothing meaningful to your driving experience, especially at highway speeds.

I think they were Sylvania replacements. The cars lights have been sub-par since I purchased it. I don't think the voltage is the problem but........

I didn't know that about fog lights. l always thought they helped a little even on clear nights.

Thank You

Bill

 

[Hamilton Felix]

I know that car is not very old, but are the headlights in good condition - clear lenses, perfect reflectors?

I ask because I recently a acquired a car that really does have lousy headlights (a 2000 Crown Victoria), but they are also in poor condition, the lenses clouded.

When I got the car, someone had talked the owner into some blue coated aftermarket 80/100 watt bulbs. He'd plugged these crappy Chinese bulbs directly into factory wiring that was hardly adequate for standard wattage bulbs when the car was new. I've no idea what the voltage drop was, but it was bad. The result was a horrible little blue glow.

New Philips Xtreme Power bulbs of the correct wattage helped.

Heavier wiring with relays will help more.

New headlamp assemblies will help more (still researching whether late model Grand Marquis lights will fit -- looking like they're narrower, but I'll believe what my tape measure tells me when I park next to a Marquis at a dealership).

In my case, poor headlights beg for auxiliary driving lights. The current plan is to fit a pair of New Old Stock Cibie 5-3/4" curved lens H1 headlights into auxiliary buckets and add them to the high beams (I always wire my driving lights with an ON-OFF-AUTO switch, so "auto" operates with high beams, while "on" lets me aim them by themselves).

Have you carefully aimed those Subaru headlights yet?

Best of luck. I know it's frustrating when your lights won't reach out...

 

[-Virgil-]

They sure don't seem well focused.

How are you judging? What is it you're seeing that makes them seem poorly focused?

I wouldn't call them long life. I have replaced my bulbs on both sides twice already

H7 is a bulb design optimized for performance, not lifespan. "Long life" is a relative term. Also, your '06 probably has daytime running lights that burn the low beams full time, which really cuts into their effective lifespan.

I will check out the Osram H7 bulbs.

You're looking specifically for the 65w ones -- Osram makes a lot of different H7 bulbs. Talk to Stern about other possible upgrades.

 

[Alaric Darconville]

Also, your '06 probably has daytime running lights that burn the low beams full time, which really cuts into their effective lifespan.

And if they burn them at a lower intensity, that contributes to deposits forming on the inside of the envelope due to a less-efficient halogen cycle. That can reduce the efficacy of the headlights (until they've burned a few hours at normal intensity, which usually cleans up the envelope).

Some people (myself included) are somewhat reluctant to install an overwattage bulb -- especially if the wiring has not been upgraded. It seems that Philips has the X-Treme Power in a 9007. Between it and the Osram Nightbreaker +90, which is the better standard-wattage upgrade?

 

[Hitthespot]

You guys are correct in that the car does have daytime running headlamps and there is no factory way of turning them off while driving. I didn't know how but I always new that this was part of my problem, especially with lifespan.

I wonder if it would be better to just leave the lights on full all the time?

You guys are also infinitely more knowledgeble about these headlamps than I am. I really appreciate all your replys and help. This discussion is really educating me. I thought someone would suggest a bulb and presto I'm done. Things are never that simple. lol

Thanks again,

Bill

 

[Hitthespot]

How are you judging? What is it you're seeing that makes them seem poorly focused?


.

The light just seems scattered everywhere. From two to three feet on one side and all the way over three feet off the road. On other cars I've owned the light seems to light up the road only.

I will have to really pay attention tonight after it gets dark, and I will try to take a picture of what I'm seeing. This may help everyone.

Bill

 

[Alaric Darconville]

You guys are correct in that the car does have daytime running headlamps and there is no factory way of turning them off while driving. I didn't know how but I always new that this was part of my problem, especially with lifespan.

I wonder if it would be better to just leave the lights on full all the time?

http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#Subaru has information on the disabling DRLs for many Subaru models; not sure if one is applicable to the '06 Legacy.

Leaving the lights on full time will use more fuel (all those miniature bulbs' wattages add up, not to mention the 110W from the full low beams alone), and, of course, means you'll be replacing bulbs of all kinds more often. Couple that with cold (but otherwise clear) weather driving, and they may interfere with fully charging the battery on short trips.

 

[-Virgil-]

And if they burn them at a lower intensity, that contributes to deposits forming on the inside of the envelope due to a less-efficient halogen cycle.

Not with low-beam DRLs like the ones on Subarus through '07 or '08, because low-beam DRLs are required to produce no less than 75% of their normal nighttime intensity, which means voltage can be reduced no more than about 10% or so (e.g., from 12.8v to 11.8v). That's not enough to cause bulb wall blackening, which is much more of a problem with the much lower voltage operation typical of high beam DRLs. Those are required to produce no more than 7,000 candela, which is roughly 10% of normal nighttime intensity. To achieve that, voltage has to be cut roughly in half (e.g., from 12.8v to 7v). That's a degree of underdrive that causes the larger-diameter bulb envelopes (H4, 9004, 9007, H13) to run too cold; boiled-off filament tungsten condenses on the envelope wall and the halogen cycle doesn't operate to clean 'em up until the bulbs are once again operated at full voltage for a prolonged period. Smaller bulb envelopes (H1) are generally OK because the envelope's closer to the filament and so runs hotter for any given filament temperature. Medium-sized envelopes (H7, 9005, 9006) are...in the middle.

Some people (myself included) are somewhat reluctant to install an overwattage bulb -- especially if the wiring has not been upgraded.

The wisdom and safety of doing so depends on the car and the bulbs in question. 80w or 100w bulbs are flatly unsafe on any vehicle's stock wiring, but the late Subarus have wiring fully adequate for a 10w increase. You can't assume in either direction; you have to ask someone who knows (not just someone who thinks he knows).

It seems that Philips has the Xtreme Power in a 9007.

True, but irrelevant; the vehicle at hand takes H7, not 9007.

Between it and the Osram Nightbreaker which is the better standard-wattage upgrade?

Definitely Philips - no blue glass.

 

[-Virgil-]

The light just seems scattered everywhere. From two to three feet on one side and all the way over three feet off the road.

Er...yes, that means you've got headlamps with a nice, wide beam pattern. That's a good thing, not a bad thing. It means you're not flying blind on curvy roads.

 

[-Virgil-]

You guys are correct in that the car does have daytime running headlamps and there is no factory way of turning them off while driving.

You can easily and non-destructively disable the factory DRLs on your '06. Then you can move the DRL function to the front turn signals -- you wind up with better, more cost-effective DRLs that won't eat up expensive headlight bulbs.

I wonder if it would be better to just leave the lights on full all the time?

No. That's also a bulb killer -- if the headlamps are switched on full time, they will get hammered with a voltage spike every time the engine is started or stopped.

 

[Hitthespot]

http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#Subaru has information on the disabling DRLs for many Subaru models; not sure if one is applicable to the '06 Legacy.

.

Based on this write up all I need to do is unplug the white DRL plug. I'm going to try this modification tomorrow. If it's as simple as it sounds (much simpler than the rewire turn signal mod) I'm going to be a happy camper.

Thank You guys for all the information and suggestions. Especially Alaric and Scheinwerfermann. By the time I'm done I'm sure I will be pleased with my headlamp setup. I never liked the DRL for a number of reasons and in fact always wished I could disable it. With this mod and a better higher wattage bulb I'm hoping I will be happier. I plan on contacting Daniel Stern for advise on my best bulb choices without having to rewire anything.

Thank You all again.

Bill

 

[Alaric Darconville]

Not with low-beam DRLs like the ones on Subarus through '07 or '08, because low-beam DRLs are required to produce no less than 75% of their normal nighttime intensity, which means voltage can be reduced no more than about 10% or so (e.g., from 12.8v to 11.8v). That's not enough to cause bulb wall blackening, which is much more of a problem with the much lower voltage operation typical of high beam DRLs. Those are required to produce no more than 7,000 candela, which is roughly 10% of normal nighttime intensity. To achieve that, voltage has to be cut roughly in half (e.g., from 12.8v to 7v). That's a degree of underdrive that causes the larger-diameter bulb envelopes (H4, 9004, 9007, H13) to run too cold; boiled-off filament tungsten condenses on the envelope wall and the halogen cycle doesn't operate to clean 'em up until the bulbs are once again operated at full voltage for a prolonged period. Smaller bulb envelopes (H1) are generally OK because the envelope's closer to the filament and so runs hotter for any given filament temperature. Medium-sized envelopes (H7, 9005, 9006) are...in the middle.

Interesting how stringent the requirements seem to be, and how the halogen cycle is fairly tolerant of low voltage conditions.

You can't assume in either direction; you have to ask someone who knows (not just someone who thinks he knows).

Is this some kind of dig at me, or am I oversensitive today?

True, but irrelevant; the vehicle at hand takes H7, not 9007.

The linked product was the H7; I accidentally typed 9007. So, it was both true and relevant, but because of my mistake it may have been confusing for others. Oops. (Also, not sure why I typed the number for a dual-filament bulb...)

Definitely Philips - no blue glass.

Odd-- the H7 XTP has no blue band like the 9006 XTP. The Osram has TWO blue bands-- twice the rice!

 

[-Virgil-]

Is this some kind of dig at me, or am I oversensitive today?

That was not even slightly my intent, but I can see how it could be read that way. Sorry about that. I meant it as a sharp stick in the eye to the hundreds and thousands of self-styled "experts" all over the internet car enthusiast forums who regurgitate marketing propaganda as though it were fact. I've never seen you do that (quite the opposite!).

The Osram has TWO blue bands

Obviously at least twice as good.

 

[Hitthespot]

Since you both have been so helpful I sure am glad your friends or at least friendly.

I just came in from dis-connecting the DRL plug from the harness. IT WORKED. I'm as happy as a 16 year old in the red light district.

Now when Mr. Stern contacts me I should be double happy.

Should I replace both the low beam (H7) and the high beam (9005) bulb for maximum improvement, or is the high beam factory bulb pretty good.

Thank You again guys

Bill

 

[Alaric Darconville]

That was not even slightly my intent, but I can see how it could be read that way. Sorry about that. I meant it as a sharp stick in the eye to the hundreds and thousands of self-styled "experts" all over the internet car enthusiast forums who regurgitate marketing propaganda as though it were fact. I've never seen you do that (quite the opposite!).

Guess I'm sensitive today (partly because I was cleaning the house like mad until 11pm last night, then got up at 4:00am to finish the job). And, there are times I get the facts wrong (like my misapprehension of the halogen cycle's operating range) which leads me to give invalid advice from time to time.

And, yes, there are a lot of those "experts" out there that really make it hard for someone to get good, decent info. Many will offer blanket statements without stopping to consider the implications

Obviously at least twice as good.

What gets me about the blue ring/rings is that it's claimed that the light is not in the 'meaningful' part of the light pattern anyway-- it seems they could reduce glare by either making the rings black or at least selective yellow (selective yellow suggested as it may be that it's in a part of the beam required for conspicuity (if there is such a conspicuity requirement for a headlight performing as a headlight), or for certain vision functions not requiring sharp focus and detail, hence blacking it out won't work).

 

[Alaric Darconville]

Since you both have been so helpful I sure am glad your friends or at least friendly.

I try to be helpful-- Scheinwerfermann definitely is helpful, because he backs his helpful attitude with solid knowledge.

I just came in from dis-connecting the DRL plug from the harness. IT WORKED.

On my Corolla, I had to remove the glovebox and pull a wire out of a harness near the airbag. Sounds like you had an easier time of it.

Now when Mr. Stern contacts me I should be double happy.

I email Daniel Stern from time to time-- like Scheinwerfermann, he's helpful and extremely knowledgeable.

Should I replace both the low beam (H7) and the high beam (9005) bulb for maximum improvement, or is the high beam factory bulb pretty good.

A quality 9005 in a well-designed lamp is a decent high beam. From what I gather from Scheinwerfermann's praise of the Subaru lights, you should be in pretty good stead with anything but a "long life" or "Silverstar Ultra" type bulb. Sadly, there is no Philips Extreme Power in a 9005; there is the High Visibility but I don't know anything about it other than that it exists.

Because high beams are infrequently used, and never in traffic, I don't hesitate to recommend installing an HIR1 (9011) bulb in the stead of the 9005. It does take a minor base modification, but everything else (the shank diameter, electrical connections, and filament placement) are the same as on a 9005.

 

[Hitthespot]

I email Daniel Stern from time to time-- like Scheinwerfermann, he's helpful and extremely knowledgeable.



A quality 9005 in a well-designed lamp is a decent high beam. From what I gather from Scheinwerfermann's praise of the Subaru lights, you should be in pretty good stead with anything but a "long life" or "Silverstar Ultra" type bulb. Sadly, there is no Philips Extreme Power in a 9005; there is the High Visibility but I don't know anything about it other than that it exists.

Because high beams are infrequently used, and never in traffic, I don't hesitate to recommend installing an HIR1 (9011) bulb in the stead of the 9005. It does take a minor base modification, but everything else (the shank diameter, electrical connections, and filament placement) are the same as on a 9005.

The 9011 was also recommened by Mr. Stern. I may also make this modification. I never use the high beams except on country roads with no traffic so it doesnt' matter how bright they are. As long as their safe for the car.

Mr. Stern also recommended the 65W H7 for the low beams. I'm waiting on confirmation from him and I will order the bulbs by next Friday from him.


Thanks Again for everyone's help.

Bill