Need help with G2 replacement bulb

photon1c

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Hello!
So I have had a Surefire G2 for something like 5 or 6 years. The bulb finally gave out. I am looking for a replacement but I am not sure I want to shell out $20+ for a p60 bulb from Surefire. The whole flashlight, new in the box, including 2 batteries plus an additional 2 batteries the seller threw in was only $30 at a gunshow.

I noticed this Chinese website called dealextreme has cheap drop-ins (though they all seem to be LED based) but they don't document their products very well, and I have no idea what would fit.

So my questions are;

1) Are there any cheap replacements that are real xenon (incandescent) bulbs ?

2) If I go with an LED replacement, which one (from dealextreme or other) would be the best?

Thanks

ETA: I found a huge post with lots of listings and links for LED (only) drop-in replacements for the P60. I couldn't make heads nor tails of it, but I would really like to replace it with a xenon incandescent. If that's not possible, what's a good cheap LED replacement that is not too blue?
 
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Kestrel

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+1 on the Lumens Factory incandescent lamp assemblies. Although I don't have one, I've read a lot of good things about them here - it sounds like they are THE top-rated incan drop-ins.

Regarding LED drop-ins, these incan folks here kind of get a little touchy talking about LED's in this subforum. ;) If you're interested in those, there are a number of great threads in the LED subforum, just search the forums for "SureFire G2 LED upgrade" or somesuch. Or just cut out all of the pesky reading and pick up a Malkoff M60W 'warm' LED dropin. ;-)

Edit: Oh, and :welcome:
 
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Niconical

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P60 lamps are usually available cheap on theMarketplace (sister forum to this one).

In this thread for example there are 2 currently for sale at $8 each.
 

photon1c

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Ok so I tried to PM that user on cpfmarketplace. I was surprised to find that my login didn't work there, so I registered (same username and PW as here).
I tried to login and it keeps saying

"You have entered an invalid username or password. Please press the back button, enter the correct details and try again. Don't forget that the password is case sensitive. Forgotten your password? Click here!"

When I registered here (candlepowerforums) I could log in and post immediately after following the link in the confirmation email.

What gives?
 

Niconical

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Possibly just an error, try changing the password, or just leave it a while.

In the meantime I will PM the P60 seller and ask him to contact you here on the main forum.
 

mdocod

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Hello Photon1c,

Welcome to CPF!

Normally speaking, as previously said, it's often frowned upon to venture into the discussions of LEDs when said communications reside in the incandecent section of this forum. However, it would be irresponsible to withhold valuable information to a new member of CPF merely because of the location of his or her first post. The flashlight in question is incandecent in it's stock configuration and it is perfectly reasonable to ask for recommendations on both incan and LED options in the same thread given the circumstances.

With that said:
In the last few years, advancements in LED efficiency and output have progressively been encroaching on illumination levels previously only attainable in incandecent configurations. It started with the smaller single cell flashlights and has worked it's way up the chain. there now exists an LED alternative for just about every level of raw output up to hundreds and even thousands of lumens, often with several fold better run-time than an equivalent size incandecent configuration. There are still great advantages to incandecent flashlights, many of those advantages are realized by over-coming cost-of-operation through conversion to rechargeable options. Also, there are valid arguments to be made for the quality of the light, the spill/beam intensity balance, and the occasional need to start a fire. Most people have moved in the direction of LED illumination tools for most applications.

For a 2xCR123 size flashlight, It's hard to argue with an LED. The G2 does introduce one problematic limitation; the plastic body does not properly sink heat away from higher power LED modules. Basically, you have to limit yourself to about 2 watts continuous (that's still a solid 100 torch lumens with a modern emitter), or get a multi-mode module and make a point never to run it in high mode for more than a few minutes at a time. The M60L from malkoffdevices.com would be the standard recomendation here, but it is priced about double what a G2 runs. If you'd rather keep the price point down around that $20 or so range like the P60, check out maybe a 3 mode solarforce or lumensfactory or dereelight module.

DealExtreme and other sites like it can have their ups and downs. Tends to be that the quality control is all over the map. A product that is reviewed as being excellent one day has a part changed on it in the next batch and it's suddenly junk but it takes a few dozen people finding out the hard way before word makes it back to the reviews and reports online. I would say, proceed at your own risk in that department. If time is money, and you have to spend 3 hours of research to pick out the good DX modules from the duds, then you may as well just spent the extra money on one of the "name brands" I mentioned above. You can buy most of those from dealers right here in the states rather than wait for international snail mail. (While those "name brands" are still Chinese manufactured products, they are supported by a network of USA based resellers. Much better CS and QC).


Here's a link to get you started:
http://www.lighthound.com/Solar-For...-In-for-L2-Flashlight-Three-Modes_p_3472.html

Enjoy,
Eric
 

jefflrrp

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Hello Photon1c,

Welcome to CPF!

Normally speaking, as previously said, it's often frowned upon to venture into the discussions of LEDs when said communications reside in the incandecent section of this forum. However, it would be irresponsible to withhold valuable information to a new member of CPF merely because of the location of his or her first post. The flashlight in question is incandecent in it's stock configuration and it is perfectly reasonable to ask for recommendations on both incan and LED options in the same thread given the circumstances.

With that said:
In the last few years, advancements in LED efficiency and output have progressively been encroaching on illumination levels previously only attainable in incandecent configurations. It started with the smaller single cell flashlights and has worked it's way up the chain. there now exists an LED alternative for just about every level of raw output up to hundreds and even thousands of lumens, often with several fold better run-time than an equivalent size incandecent configuration. There are still great advantages to incandecent flashlights, many of those advantages are realized by over-coming cost-of-operation through conversion to rechargeable options. Also, there are valid arguments to be made for the quality of the light, the spill/beam intensity balance, and the occasional need to start a fire. Most people have moved in the direction of LED illumination tools for most applications.

For a 2xCR123 size flashlight, It's hard to argue with an LED. The G2 does introduce one problematic limitation; the plastic body does not properly sink heat away from higher power LED modules. Basically, you have to limit yourself to about 2 watts continuous (that's still a solid 100 torch lumens with a modern emitter), or get a multi-mode module and make a point never to run it in high mode for more than a few minutes at a time. The M60L from malkoffdevices.com would be the standard recomendation here, but it is priced about double what a G2 runs. If you'd rather keep the price point down around that $20 or so range like the P60, check out maybe a 3 mode solarforce or lumensfactory or dereelight module.

DealExtreme and other sites like it can have their ups and downs. Tends to be that the quality control is all over the map. A product that is reviewed as being excellent one day has a part changed on it in the next batch and it's suddenly junk but it takes a few dozen people finding out the hard way before word makes it back to the reviews and reports online. I would say, proceed at your own risk in that department. If time is money, and you have to spend 3 hours of research to pick out the good DX modules from the duds, then you may as well just spent the extra money on one of the "name brands" I mentioned above. You can buy most of those from dealers right here in the states rather than wait for international snail mail. (While those "name brands" are still Chinese manufactured products, they are supported by a network of USA based resellers. Much better CS and QC).


Here's a link to get you started:
http://www.lighthound.com/Solar-For...-In-for-L2-Flashlight-Three-Modes_p_3472.html

Enjoy,
Eric

+1 to everything he said. What an informative post. :thumbsup:
 

kramer5150

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I am not really a fan of DX one way or another. As with anything there are pros and cons, and in my collection there is a place for cheap stuff along side the higher end.

I use these in my SF-M2 and G2. Their SKU:3218 has performed admirably in either of my SF incan hosts.

I will take some outdoor beamshots tonight for your viewing pleasure, so you can compare it to my P60 and P61.

Left to right:
SF P61 - SKU:3218 - SF P60
dscn2476g.jpg


dscn2477.jpg


dscn2478.jpg


**EDIT**
I'll also throw in a beamshot of my SF-A2. bigchelis measured it at 85L OTF, it also has a very white color tint (for an incan) so its a good reference for you in terms of color as well as lumen output. I have switched the soalrforce strike bezel with the standard SF bezel shown below on my G2 host.

dscn2480.jpg
 
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ampdude

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I received a couple of the DX drop-ins from a fellow forum member a couple of weeks ago and they are pretty good, especially for about $3 shipped that DX is asking. One I have is marked 10W and the other is 15W. Surprisingly the 15W one is a little dimmer, I'm assuming it's mislabeled. They both draw about 1.4A off of two IMR16340 cells.

While I don't expect them to be as long lasting as a geniune Surefire bulb, they are a reasonable cheap alternative if you have the higher voltage rechargeable batteries to use with them.
 

kramer5150

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beamshots. Note that I am under-driving the SKYU:3218 to some degree by not using IMR cells. Tailcap current draw is 1.53A with non-IMR cells.

First a couple for reference.
An RC-N3-Q5 (LED) this light measured 145L in bigchelis' sphere
dscn2482s.jpg


A SF-A2. My point and shoot really messes up the red tints in all these lights, and over- exagerates that color band. Yes my A2 is a RED led model, but the center spot is no where near this red in person. So disregard this image from a color standpoint. This light measured 85L in bigchelis' sphere.
dscn2484x.jpg


SF-P60. disregard exaggerated red hue.
dscn2487i.jpg


SF-P61. disregard red hue around the center spot.
dscn2486f.jpg


DX SKU-3218
dscn2483.jpg


RC-N3-Q5 140L
dscn2488.jpg


SF-A2. Ignore red hue, this is 85L
dscn2490.jpg


SF-P60
dscn2492.jpg


SF-P61
dscn2491s.jpg


DX SKU:3218
dscn2489h.jpg
 
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ampdude

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How much current does your SKU-3218 (15W) draw?

Funny that SKU-3162 (10W) is about $.24 more. Unfortunately I can't find a DX SKU that is a direct 6v replacement for the P60 or P61.
 
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kramer5150

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How much current does your SKU-3218 (15W) draw?

Funny that SKU-3162 (10W) is about $.24 more. Unfortunately I can't find a DX SKU that is a direct 6v replacement for the P60 or P61.

1.53A with non-IMR cells (12.85W)... So I think I am under-driving it a fair amount with these cells.
 

bstrickler

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I have a LumensFactory EO-4, which is rated at 190 lumens, but puts out somewhat less than my MN10 (on 2x17670) in my M4/M3 lego, which is rated at 125 lumens. It's got a nice smooth beam, but it seems to be over-rated, but there's a chance I may be underdriving it (I'm using cells from old laptop battery packs, instead of AW's IMR or protected 18650's)

I would personally go with rechargeable/lithium ion lamps, so you can save a good bit of money in the long run, and have them be just as reliable.

If you are in the military/law enforcement, I would use unprotected cells, because you never know when you'll have to run the lamp longer than expected. The LAST thing you want, is for the light to suddenly die, and leave you chasing a perp in the dark! It's better to kill a $5-$10 battery, than potentially lose your life, or get injured.

If you want to know about LED dropins, I would post a question on the LED section of the forum.

~Brian
 

ampdude

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The only reason to go with a 3.7v lamp is in a single cell setup, not with an 18650. If you have a two cell body you might as well use a 7.2v lamp. 3.7v lamps are just not as bright as 6v and 9v lamps and they draw a lot more current as well. In addition the higher voltage lamps are more versatile in that you can run them on primaries as well.
 

mdocod

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Most of the lamps being discussed here are not going to run correctly on a pair of regular photo lithium primary cells.

Photon1c, are you interested in converting to a li-ion rechargeable setup? Initial investment can be upwards of $75 or more but the long term savings if you use the light frequently can more than pay for itself. You'll have to decide based on how heavily you use the light.
 
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