Need help with modding Exolion with new generation LED

[MY]

Hi All.

My EDC for the last couple of years has been an Exolion TI CR2. I have really been satisfied with the light but it is now having Fenix envy. Having been away from the board for the last half year, I am surprised at the new generation of LEDs that are now widely available. I just got a Fenix with Cree and it is amazing how LEDs have evolved. I was hoping that someone has a easy and quick mod for the Exolion to bring it up to date. I was thinking about a LED swap with associated reflector if needed. I love the form factor of the Exolion but wish it had a greater run time. With the new LEDs, as I understand it, the efficency has gone up resulting in greater run time with the same output (or more lumens out the front end with the same run time).

Thanks in advance for the help.

Regards

 

[MY]

Sorry that I posted this in the wrong thread. Can a moderator please move this thread to the Custom and Mod, none BST thread?

Thanks.

 

[daywalker]

You can easily remove the light engine and exchange the LED to an Seoul SSC P4. The only thing is, that it might need a copper spacer underneath the LED to raise it up in the reflector. Therefor you need to sand a little of the reflector. There are a lot of threads with explanations and pictures for that swap.
I put a cyan led in it and it is mind blowing, just can't wait for a SSC in Cyan.

 

[ICUDoc]

MY
The Exolion is still a great light after a couple of years!
The Seoul replacement is very easy.
The boards unscrew out of the Ti head using a pair of ring pliers.
The old Luxeon LED comes off with ease after you use solder wick to remove the solder from the connections- mine was held in place with arctic silver I think- not the adhesive variety. Dont forget to clean up the heatsink compound.
Use the copper shim from the Sandwich Shoppe to raise the Seoul LED up a bit to match the emitter height of the Luxeon. Secure with Arctic Alumina adhesive.
Solder in place the best Seoul P4 you can find. I used Arctic Alumina adhesive because it isolates the base (slug) of the Seoul which is otherwise a problem as it is connected to the LED positive lead.
Now you can shorten the back of the reflector or buy a McR-16S reflector.
I found output went up, runtime a little longer only at a quick test.
Takes about 15 minutes.
Dont overtighten the can as it puts pressure on the lens and can crack it.
Do it somewhere clean.
Don't smoke.
Eat your veges.

 

[MY]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Regards.

 

[Paper Lawyer]

I've got an Exolion in need of upgrade (and some protected RCR2 batteries). The advice above is very helpful but I can't find the copper shim on the sandwich shoppe website.

Also, is the P4 still the most suitable upgrade?

I've tried PMing goldserve but his PMs folder has exceeded its quota so I can't reach him.

Thanks

Craig

 

[X_Marine]

Good pointers, I upgraded mine after having it about a yr with the sandwich and SSC that GS was offering. That made it very easy, just unscrew clean, lightly remove very small amount from reflector bottom, and screw in new sammy.

You may want to post a WTB for the upgrade package as I'm sure someone bought more than 1 and would be willing to sell one.

Also search for post started by gregw, I think that's how his nick is. He is a great guy also and I'm sure would be happy to point you in the right direction.

GL
X/BillyD..

 

[Stereodude]

Also, is the P4 still the most suitable upgrade?

The SSC P4 is generally speaking the best Luxeon I & III replacement. The only major thing to be conscious of is that the metal base on the bottom of the SSC P4 is not electrically isolated like the base of the Luxeon. Depending on the flashlight it may or may not matter. A very thin layer of Arctic Alumina thermal epoxy is a great way to isolate it electrically.

 

[Paper Lawyer]

Thanks guys for the advice. So it looks like I either need to

(a) buy a P4 and solder it on myself, being careful to ensure electrical isolation (still not sure what the spacer referred to above is though - I've had a look at the sandwich shoppe) then mod the reflector

(b) locate a goldserve item then I simply have to mod the reflector (small amount of material removal - at the wide or narrow (i.e. LED) end?

 

[PhotonFanatic]

MY
The Exolion is still a great light after a couple of years!
The Seoul replacement is very easy.
The boards unscrew out of the Ti head using a pair of ring pliers.
The old Luxeon LED comes off with ease after you use solder wick to remove the solder from the connections- mine was held in place with arctic silver I think- not the adhesive variety. Dont forget to clean up the heatsink compound.
Use the copper shim from the Sandwich Shoppe to raise the Seoul LED up a bit to match the emitter height of the Luxeon. Secure with Arctic Alumina adhesive.
Solder in place the best Seoul P4 you can find. I used Arctic Alumina adhesive because it isolates the base (slug) of the Seoul which is otherwise a problem as it is connected to the LED positive lead.
Now you can shorten the back of the reflector or buy a McR-16S reflector.
I found output went up, runtime a little longer only at a quick test.
Takes about 15 minutes.
Dont overtighten the can as it puts pressure on the lens and can crack it.
Do it somewhere clean.
Don't smoke.
Eat your veges.

Doesn't he have to abstain from sex, too?

 

[Stereodude]

Doesn't he have to abstain from sex, too?

That comes automatically with the territory once your wife find out how much you spent on lights. :mecry:

 

[ICUDoc]

Doesn't he have to abstain from sex, too?

Buy a lathe- it's an excellent replacement for that part of your life.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

QUOTE:That comes automatically with the territory once your wife find out how much you spent on lights.


Buy a lathe- it's an excellent replacement for that part of your life.

 

[Paper Lawyer]

MY
Use the copper shim from the Sandwich Shoppe to raise the Seoul LED up a bit to match the emitter height of the Luxeon. Secure with Arctic Alumina adhesive.

Does anyone know where the copper shim can be found on the Sandwich Shoppe inventory?

Thanks

Craig

PS I used a little teflon grease on the Exolion threads but I guess that has hampered the power flow as the light appears a little ****y - I guess I need to source some conductive grease as well.

 

[DM51]

MY, sorry not to have noticed your request in post #2 earlier. Moving this to 'Homemade & Modified' now.

 

[darmawaa]

Hi David,
I've 3 Exolion that I want to change to Q5, can you do the mod for me, or anybody that can do that?
Thanks!

MY
The Exolion is still a great light after a couple of years!
The Seoul replacement is very easy.
The boards unscrew out of the Ti head using a pair of ring pliers.
The old Luxeon LED comes off with ease after you use solder wick to remove the solder from the connections- mine was held in place with arctic silver I think- not the adhesive variety. Dont forget to clean up the heatsink compound.
Use the copper shim from the Sandwich Shoppe to raise the Seoul LED up a bit to match the emitter height of the Luxeon. Secure with Arctic Alumina adhesive.
Solder in place the best Seoul P4 you can find. I used Arctic Alumina adhesive because it isolates the base (slug) of the Seoul which is otherwise a problem as it is connected to the LED positive lead.
Now you can shorten the back of the reflector or buy a McR-16S reflector.
I found output went up, runtime a little longer only at a quick test.
Takes about 15 minutes.
Dont overtighten the can as it puts pressure on the lens and can crack it.
Do it somewhere clean.
Don't smoke.
Eat your veges.

 

[ICUDoc]

Hi darmawaa
Yes I can do that although you may prefer the Seoul semiconductor LEDs- I have some nice bright handpicked ones. The problem is I am in Australia- still happy to do it but you should consider the postage costs +/- insurance.

 

[Paper Lawyer]

David, could you clarify the copper shim reference? I'm tempted to have an attempt at the mod myself, but it will be my first torch modification and so I'm a little paranoid about getting it wrong or buying the wrong components :sweat:

 

[ICUDoc]

The height of the phosphor (light emitting element) on the Seoul LED is a tiny bit lower than the one on the Luxeons. So that means that it will not quite be at the optimal focal point of the reflectors designed for Luxeons. A slim slip (a "shim") of copper acts as a good conductor of heat away from the LED and raises it to the right height. Try this http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?&products_id=945.
Good luck.

 

[Paper Lawyer]

Ah, I understand now the purpose of the shim (I got the wrong end of the stick and thought it had to isolate!). Much appreciated!

 

[ICUDoc]

Note that it needs to be covered with an INSULATING layer (I use Arctic Epoxy) as the SSC slug is not neutral. So the copper itself aint enough.