Need some advice on an emitter for my HDS

[dirobesh]

I have an HDS basic 42 which I've fitted with a Lux III TWOH emitter. I would like to replace it with an SSC P4 but am not sure whether I should go with the USVOI emitter or get a USWOH star (removing the base, as there are no emitters left) from PhotonFanatic.

Could anybody advise me please which would give the longest run time - I'm guessing the USWOH because of the lower voltage but i'm not 100 percent sure.

(Not sure if this is the correct forum to post this so mods please move it if necessary)

 

[aceo07]

The HDS will always put out the same amount of power to the led regardless of what led you use so that the runtimes are the same as before.

 

[dirobesh]

So it doesn't matter what the Vf rating is then?

 

[RickyT]

You want to try and get the most efficient emitter you can. The Vf shouldn't affect the runtime as mentioned being power regulated, but the more efficient one should be brighter.

 

[dirobesh]

Many thanks for the help - i'll go for the USWOH then.

 

[louie]

I much prefer the tint of the USVO-, finding one very close to my B42GT OEM tint. Photonfanatic told me he'll get more USVOH emitters in soon, anyway!

 

[Long John]

dirobesh, I would be careful with the ermitter choice.

The vf of the Led is important.

I don't own a HDS, so I doesn't know the driving current at the Led (there are anyway some fluctuations depending on the individual Led) at the different brightness levels.
But at the highest setting, a H-vf SSC can be risky compared to a I-vf. In particular due to the higher variations of the SSC's compared to the Luxeons in view of dependency of current/voltage and heatsink.

Today I swapped a LuxeonIII UX1J to a SSC USVOI at a light with a Wiz2-driver.
I measured at the Led (Lux): 3,28 Volts against to the SSC: 3,40 Volts, same batt. and circumstances.

To go the safe way, take the I-vf.

Best regards

____
Tom

 

[cratz2]

But the HDS is a constant current driver, no? It should be very roughly the same brightness whether the Vf is H or I, but the H should give slightly longer runtimes than I.

I have a USW0H in my HDS Basic 42 and am supremely happy with the result... though I'd prefer it to be in a 1xAA housing rather than the 1x123. It is pushing 100 lumens plus or minus a few. But the biggest improvement is that after the mod, the standard secondary setting became almost as bright as the primary was before the mod... About 8 lumens vs 10 lumens... But now it should run for about 30 hours rather than 8. And the lowest setting became quite usable... I'm guessing 2 lumens vs .2 lumens. In a totally dark room, I can easily use the beam from 30 feet away. Before, it was pretty much invisible at that distance.

I have had two USV0I LEDs and they were both considerably green. I don't dislike green and a light modded with a USV0I is my go to light for something small for use outdoors. All of the USW0Hs have been very, very white. I'd imagine that unless you were specifically wanting a very warm/greenish LED, I'd suggest you go with the USV0H.

 

[louie]

I think tints are still pretty variable. I bought 2 USVOH and 2 USWOH in order to pick. 1 USVOH matched my HDS guaranteed tint pretty closely, the other was somewhat turquoise and much closer to the other 2 USWOHs. The one I use looks pink compared to the others! In many cases, people have their own idea of what white they like.

 

[ginaz]

lottery still applies to seoul as well. i tried a USV0H and a USW0I (in my B42) and found the USW0 to be a slight bit brighter. i do like the golden tint of the V0 though...

 

[dirobesh]

Thank you everyone for your replies - i've ordered 2 USWOHs and am looking forward to giving my HDS a new lease of life.

 

[Christoph]

I found that the higher vf (I)did not give me stable output on the lowest setting it flickered and the (H) did not. ymmv total output at least doubled on my b42.

 

[Ty_Bower]

But the HDS is a constant current driver, no?

No, the HDS is a constant power driver. Henry was always very particular about the distinction.

 

[Long John]

I found that the higher vf (I)did not give me stable output on the lowest setting it flickered and the (H) did not. ymmv total output at least doubled on my b42.

I'm not sure but I had in mind, the driver should be PWM. So perhaps with the installation of your I-vf was something wrong because at the lowest setting.....I have no explanation for this.

Anyway, to swap a LuxI against to a SSC with H-vf I wouldn't have any provisos, but with the LuxIII's and unknown driving level....the I-vf is the safer way.

But as may best please everyone

Best regards

____
Tom

 

[Aepoc]

As far as tint is concerned, the VO and the WO can be very close. It really is a lottery with SSC. They are the newest company and are still refining their methods of binning. If you are worried about efficiency, I would buy a whole bunch of the USWOH and hook each one up to a power source to find the best tint-output combo. Then drop that one in your light.

 

[voodoogreg]

OK OT, but kinda the same question. How difficult is this mod? Just removing the old emitter and soldering in the P4? or is the any work needed done to the reflector driver etc?
my basic 60 is my only EDC right now (lost my K-1/VG FB-1 1 cell light) other then my daughter's newer coast V2. (which on new nimh batts, is brighter, and throws more then my HDS believe it or not!. Looks like std NX05 optic too, terrible runtime though) And with my medical bills I can't afford even a cheaper cree/SSC new light much less a new gen novatac/HDS.
also for the "60" would you recommend the same
emitter? Any advice or links would be appreciated! VDG

 

[ginaz]

VDG,

you may need to sand or otherwise file down the base of your reflector to meet up with the lower seoul die height. other than that it is pretty straightforward. my bezel was extremely difficult to remove which led to me replacing it with a steel one from fenixstore.

 

[Valpo Hawkeye]

OK OT, but kinda the same question. How difficult is this mod? Just removing the old emitter and soldering in the P4? or is the any work needed done to the reflector driver etc?

I've modded two, and each time a simple emitter swap was all that was needed. The beam was great without any modification to the reflector. You'll need some Artic Silver or Alumina to isolate the emitter and for thermal transfer. You can buy this from PhotonFanatic or from Radio Shack.

 

[louie]

OK OT, but kinda the same question. How difficult is this mod? Just removing the old emitter and soldering in the P4? or is the any work needed done to the reflector driver etc?

Easy mod. Check tebore's thread for directions. Simply replace LED. I left the reflector as-is and find the beam perfect. You can't do anything to the circuit since its potted and only Henry knows its magic workings. Note that HDS60s may not see as much increase as an HDS42, as well as differences from XR models.

 

[voodoogreg]

Easy mod. Check tebore's thread for directions. Simply replace LED. I left the reflector as-is and find the beam perfect. You can't do anything to the circuit since its potted and only Henry knows its magic workings. Note that HDS60s may not see as much increase as an HDS42, as well as differences from XR models.

Thanks Louie and all, It sounds like a good way to go,I need to investigate and decide on which bin for a "60", any advice? or same as this thread's author?
I did figure it would be less mind blowing then the 42 mod, but it will still out do the lux III by 15-20 lumens at least, along with a somewhat longer runtime, correct? Thanks guys! VDG