Need someone to install a new LED in my ultra G

voodoogreg

voodoogreg

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It's pitifully dim now after use 24/7 as a computer "area" light. I know this
is not real hard but I just ruined my sonic "G" and am not gonna do it.

If one of the fellow brethen can without to much carnage feel free to
post a "PM me" or just PM me direct with a time/cost/ possible improvement,
Be nice if someone had a CS nichia BO on hand.

I am bummed,, bad day for my first cool LED lights :mecry: VDG


EDIT: for title snafu.G
 
Last edited:
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paulr

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It's actually dimmed significantly so when you put in a new battery it's noticably less bright than it used to be? :wow:.
 
voodoogreg

voodoogreg

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paulr said:
It's actually dimmed significantly so when you put in a new battery it's noticably less bright than it used to be? :wow:.

Yep I was pretty astonished too. It hung for about 6 -8 mth's mostly on, because i was using nimh's. It was my second brightest outta 4 CMG ultra's/ U-G's, now it's noticably dimmer then my worst one. I tried all batteries new/different, lith's too, it's the LED. (or circuit, that would be highly unlikely)

I wondered if the nimh had anything to do with it, or just on so much, nimh's run lower Voltage but I don't know about current.
anyway, it's enough to bum to the point of putting in a new LED. VDG
 
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paulr

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Well, these lights are known to overdrive their leds. Never let it be said now that the overdrive doesn't hurt them.
 
voodoogreg

voodoogreg

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So any taker's? I would really like to have a nichia CS in it soon for spring. And if it get's rendered inoperable during surgery, no problem, i can always have a light to upgrade to a lux1 pill like lamda or such. Help a poor brother! VDG
 
Brlux

Brlux

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I would almost volenteer but I don't know how to seal it back up to the quality it with which it once was. You have to break off the aluminum crip around the circuit board in order to get it apart and then it is hard to seal it back up. You end up with a circuit board that can fall out during battery changes and poore contenuity between the head and circuit board. Resulting in a light with intermitent reliability issues. Not to mention the headache of getting the potted circuit out and the high likely hood of damaging components like the inductor when trying to remove the potting epoxy. For my own lights I am perfectly ok with playing around, But I am a little nervous working on other peoples stuff. So I would recomend getting your hands dirty and trying it your self. You will have a great expierience even if the end results are less than you would like but you will have learned a lott and have built upon your modder skills so that your next project will be even better. If you need any help or pointers there are plenty of experts here on CPF who can help. Spend the money you would have spent on shipping and paying someone else to do this on some Basic and valuable CPF tools like a soldering iron, multi meter, dremil, epoxies, and so on.

Thats just my opinion and recomendation for all.

Thanks
Brlux
 
greenLED

greenLED

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I don't remember having continuity problems with this board. :confused:
 
Brlux

Brlux

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I have to admit I have not moded any Ultra G's but I have moded an older model infinity. I found that with the aluminum crimp broken off there was nothing to secure the circuit in and it was just floading in the head. Continuity did not seem to be as reliable as befor the crimp was removed.

I have sence moded it with a new circuit/PCB which I made to drive a luxeon using a LT3490. The new PCB is a very tight friction fit with several half vias runing through the side of the board conecting the top botom ground plain and creating a very tight friction ground conection.
 

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