Needing a small AA or CR123 light for edc... Bright with a Clicky a must...

Derty

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Feb 1, 2012
Messages
7
1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
__x__I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! 🙂

____Less than $25.
____Less than $50.
__x__Less than $100.
____Less than $150.
____Less than $300.
____I have no limit.
____I’m flexible, tell me what you gotJ.
____Other, please specify ________


3) Format:

__x__I want a flashlight.
____I want a headlamp.
____I want a lantern.
____I want a dive light.
____I want a portable spotlight.


4) Flashlight-specific format/size:

____Keychain size.
__x__Every day carry small (2-4 inches).
____Every day carry medium (4-7 inches).
____Holster carry.
____Big enough to need its own travel caseJ.
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
____N/A


5) Emitter/Light source:

__x__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

__x__I want to buy a light from a traditional mass producing manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
____I would consider getting a light that is pieced together (for example a “host” or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a “drop-in” emitter from another source). Under the right circumstances, this path can provide more options to the consumer to meet specific needs, and can often be easily upgradeable as technology improves.


7) What battery type do you want to use?

____I intend to use alkaline batteries (AAA, AA, C, D) (disclaimer, while it does not preclude all choices, these are not recommended for many of today’s most powerful lights)
____I intend to use rechargeable nickel chemistry (NiCad, NiMH, NiZn)
__x__I intend to use lithium primary batteries (CR123, CR2, Energizer Advanced/Ultimate Lithium AA/AAA)
____I intend to use rechargeable lithium (li-ion) chemistry. Feel free to specify a size if you know which size you want (14500, RCR123/16340, 17500, 17670, 18650, etc.)
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery. (Note: these choices may be very limited unless you are looking at spotlights)


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (0-10 lumens).
__x__I want to walk around an unlit rural area (50-150 lumens).
__x__I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want ridiculous amounts of lumens (800+ lumens).


9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.

__x__Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
__x__Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
__x__5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
__x__30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I want maximum throw possible)


10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
__x__3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).


11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase “you get what you pay for” is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A “night-stand” light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
__x__Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't care.
____I don’t know.


12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):

____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
__x__I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
__x__I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
__x__I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today’s high end lights).
____I don't care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
__x__I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
__x__I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Blinks to show location.)
____I want SOS mode.
____I want a beacon mode.
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
__x__Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today’s flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________.


15) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____“Hybrid” light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments
 
2 to 4 inches is keychain light territory.
150+ lumens is going to be CR123 territory too. You CAN get an AA but its going to be longer.

Heres my suggestions in the 40-60 dollar price range:


Klarus NT10. 4 brightness levels, side clicky

SUNWAYMAN M10R - 3 levels. end clicky with magnetic ring to select modes.

Quark 123 S2 - FIVE levels of brightness, end clicky. Has a clip that CANNOT BE REMOVED!

ThruNite 1C - 5 levels. clicky



My criteria were:

XP-G emitter preferred - powerful 200+ lumens, but reasonable price.
XM-L emitter ok - technically stronger but only at really high currents so its kind of a waste of money.
Clicky obviously. Many tiny lights are TWISTYs for keychain usage.
Multiple Modes - Battery life is a function of HOW MUCH LUMENS times HOW LONG RUN. It has very little to do with the light itself.
That means you want more brightness levels to get just enough light to get the job done...this saves battery life.
CR123 battery - not preferred as they get expensive. Would prefer a rechargable AA. BUT CR123 has more energy density (longer lasting) and has double the voltage in order to get 200+ lumens. This is difficult with an AA, though kind of doable (see Nitecore and Zebralights)
 
Last edited:
2 to 4 inches is keychain light territory.
150+ lumens is going to be CR123 territory too. You CAN get an AA but its going to be longer.

Heres my suggestions in the 40-60 dollar price range:


Klarus NT10. 4 brightness levels, side clicky

SUNWAYMAN M10R - 3 levels. end clicky with magnetic ring to select modes.

Quark 123 S2 - FIVE levels of brightness, end clicky. Has a clip that CANNOT BE REMOVED!

ThruNite 1C - 5 levels. clicky



My criteria were:

XP-G emitter preferred - powerful 200+ lumens, but reasonable price.
XM-L emitter ok - technically stronger but only at really high currents so its kind of a waste of money.
Clicky obviously. Many tiny lights are TWISTYs for keychain usage.
Multiple Modes - Battery life is a function of HOW MUCH LUMENS times HOW LONG RUN. It has very little to do with the light itself.
That means you want more brightness levels to get just enough light to get the job done...this saves battery life.
CR123 battery - not preferred as they get expensive. Would prefer a rechargable AA. BUT CR123 has more energy density (longer lasting) and has double the voltage in order to get 200+ lumens. This is difficult with an AA, though kind of doable (see Nitecore and Zebralights)

+1 on what joe1512's recommendation on the M10R, but i think the run on max for 3+ hours in your list is not going to happen on these flashlights. they will run on reduced output though.
 
wait for the release of the Eagtac D-series with clickies
they may even release a Titanium version with clickies!!
 
Im lazy, i only read the title, i do know you need a quark mini 123 tho 😉

You're too lazy but I've read it for you. :nana:
I'd recommend you get a Quark 123 tactical and then buy a regular clicky tailcap from FOURSEVENS. You get reverse clicky with programmable multi-mode.
 
Good suggestions all.
You could also check out Lumapower's Incendio with XM-L.
525 Lumen "Turbo" in (very) short bursts; 190L high for ~ 90 minutes, 2 more modes for adequate light/longer runtime (~1500 minutes on low.)
Only 3" long. I'd lean toward the T5 Neutral, but, honestly, the XP-G is plenty bright for EDC, and a bit less $$$.
I've read they keep getting better, and have the design down now.
 
Back
Top