Needs for Mag100

BlackEgoBrain

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Apr 4, 2010
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12
Hello,
I'm from Germany and my English is not the best.
I want to build a Mag100, but i dont know where i can buy the materials i need.

I would buy:

Maglite 4D - here
Cells - here (are thisone good?)
Bulb - here

I dont know where i can buy this things:
battery holde, metal reflector, ceramic bulb holder

Can you help me?

Greeting
EgoBrain
 

swampgator

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Aug 29, 2006
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Gatorville, Florida
Welcome to CPF. Almost everything you can think of is available via the search feature. Look around a bit.

CPF member Fivemega is well known for his custom parts. He makes everything on your list. Although he might not have a part presently for sale, he usually does a run if demand is high enough.

Member mdocod is also well known for his battery holders.

If neither of the above is able to help, Kaidomain has both the reflectors and bi-pin adaptors.
 

Databyter

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Oct 12, 2005
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525
Location
San Diego
Hello,
I'm from Germany and my English is not the best.
I want to build a Mag100, but i dont know where i can buy the materials i need.

I would buy:

Maglite 4D - here
Cells - here (are thisone good?)
Bulb - here

I dont know where i can buy this things:
battery holde, metal reflector, ceramic bulb holder

Can you help me?

Greeting
EgoBrain

Yes the cells are good, I got elites myself, but Titaniums are prefered by many here and you can't go wrong with either for that light.

Batt. Holder
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/244640

Reflector
http://kaidomain.com/

Ceramic Bulb Holder
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/171607

Smart charger (just in case you decide to get one to charge all your batt's while inside the pack as allowed by the FiveMega 12AA to 4D adapter Holder via a jack in it's tail.
http://www.batteryspace.com/smartchargersfornimhcdbatterypackseries.aspx

Don't forget a glass/Borofloat lens (borofloat is better heat/temp shock resistant)
http://www.flashlightlens.com/

Some of these might take longer to ship, like Kaidomain and the Kui Ceramic Bulb holder so order those first. The rest will ship fairly quickly depending on whether you are currently in the US or in Germany.
 

Hack On Wheels

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Joined
Nov 4, 2007
Messages
774
Location
Canada
Hello,
I'm from Germany and my English is not the best.
I want to build a Mag100, but i dont know where i can buy the materials i need.

I would buy:

Maglite 4D - here
Cells - here (are thisone good?)
Bulb - here

I dont know where i can buy this things:
battery holde, metal reflector, ceramic bulb holder

Can you help me?

Greeting
EgoBrain

:welcome:
Your English is quite good! Looking for mistakes I was only able to spot two small errors... far better than I would do with a different language. :)

Databyter has some good suggestions; a better source (in my opinion) for a reflector is "Britelumens", but they do charge extra for shipping. They also have replacement glass, but you will need to make sure it is Borofloat glass for adequate heat resistance.
 

mrartillery

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Mar 24, 2007
Messages
987
Location
north carolina
You might want to consider a switch upgrade, as the 62138 will be pulling over 9 and a half amps, your stock modded switch might hold up for awhile, then again.....:green:

Also if you're going to use AA's you'll need a dummy cell, as the 138 runs on 11 aa's not 12, fully charged on 12 and you'll get a lovely :poof:.

Something else you might want to consider is a bulb like the 64440 IRC, it has a much lower amp draw and will be much easier on your stock type switch, instead of AA's you can use 5 IMR 26500's in your 4 D mag. Also, 64440 has a greater output than the 62138 and will have a longer runtime due to higher capacity battery and lower amp draw.

Something for you to consider. ;)
 

Hack On Wheels

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Nov 4, 2007
Messages
774
Location
Canada
You might want to consider a switch upgrade, as the 62138 will be pulling over 9 and a half amps, your stock modded switch might hold up for awhile, then again.....:green:

Also if you're going to use AA's you'll need a dummy cell, as the 138 runs on 11 aa's not 12, fully charged on 12 and you'll get a lovely :poof:.

Something else you might want to consider is a bulb like the 64440 IRC, it has a much lower amp draw and will be much easier on your stock type switch, instead of AA's you can use 5 IMR 26500's in your 4 D mag. Also, 64440 has a greater output than the 62138 and will have a longer runtime due to higher capacity battery and lower amp draw.

Something for you to consider. ;)

All very good points, especially about the switch! I wasn't paying attention to the bulb wattage (and current draw).

There are some different solutions... an AW switch with soft-start, the JimmyM regulated switch, or a do-it-yourself MOSFET switch mod.
 

BlackEgoBrain

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 4, 2010
Messages
12
You might want to consider a switch upgrade, as the 62138 will be pulling over 9 and a half amps, your stock modded switch might hold up for awhile, then again.....:green:

Also if you're going to use AA's you'll need a dummy cell, as the 138 runs on 11 aa's not 12, fully charged on 12 and you'll get a lovely :poof:.

Something else you might want to consider is a bulb like the 64440 IRC, it has a much lower amp draw and will be much easier on your stock type switch, instead of AA's you can use 5 IMR 26500's in your 4 D mag. Also, 64440 has a greater output than the 62138 and will have a longer runtime due to higher capacity battery and lower amp draw.

Something for you to consider. ;)

Ok thanks! This is good to know. :)
 
Last edited:

jaundice

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Joined
Jul 19, 2008
Messages
312
I second MrArtillery's suggestion to go with 26500 (or 26650) IMR cells, instead of AA nimh. The energy density is greater, much greater in the case of 26650 IMR cells, and the cost is similar, when you include the cost of the AA battery holder.

-John
 

Hightower

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Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
71
Location
Germany/lower saxony
Hello EgoBrain,
you can get your lens together with the reflector at kaidomain. The mentionend titanium cells are not availible in germany (as far as i know) but eneloops are good, too (the voltage sags, but you'll have quite enough to burn paper).
I own two 100 Watt Mags. One from FM with the 138 bulb and 11 eneloops and one with the 625 with 12 enellops. The one with the 625 works much better to burn paper.

Regards

Michael

P.S.: I've read your question in a german forum. Its always interesting to see, that at cpf you'll get much more help and responselovecpf
 

mrartillery

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Messages
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Location
north carolina
Hello EgoBrain,
you can get your lens together with the reflector at kaidomain. The mentionend titanium cells are not availible in germany (as far as i know) but eneloops are good, too (the voltage sags, but you'll have quite enough to burn paper).
I own two 100 Watt Mags. One from FM with the 138 bulb and 11 eneloops and one with the 625 with 12 enellops. The one with the 625 works much better to burn paper.

Regards

Michael

P.S.: I've read your question in a german forum. Its always interesting to see, that at cpf you'll get much more help and responselovecpf

9.5 amps on Eneloops?! :shakehead I don't use even use Eneloops in my 2 D with a 5761, 5.5A is too much for them IMO much less 9.5. For anything much higher than 5.5 I use Elite's, due mainly to the fact that Titanium's are notorious for leaking.
 

ProofTech

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Boise, ID, USA
I own two 100 Watt Mags. One from FM with the 138 bulb and 11 eneloops and one with the 625 with 12 enellops.

Are you sure that you don’t have that backwards? According to LuxLuthor’s tests, the 138 can handle more voltage than a 625. I’m using 12 eneloops in my Mag138.
 

mrartillery

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Messages
987
Location
north carolina
[/FONT]
Are you sure that you don’t have that backwards? According to LuxLuthor’s tests, the 138 can handle more voltage than a 625. I’m using 12 eneloops in my Mag138.

According to Lux's charts the 62138 flashes at around 15v, 12 fully charged AA's can be up to around 18v hot off the charger, thus the need for a dummy cell. The only way i could see you running 12 is if you were to bleed the voltage off prior to starting it up, or use some form of soft start or regulate it. Even then, Eneloops are going to sag in a hurry under that kind of load.

Another alternative to the AA's if you were dead set on using the 62138 is 4 LifePo4 cells (26650), this way you wouldnt have to worry about :poof: and you would have a much better runtime.
 

ProofTech

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Mrartillery, an AW softstart switch, plus voltage sag, plus a few hours of rest for the cells after I charge them up is what prevents the bulb from flashing.
 

Hightower

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9.5 amps on Eneloops?! :shakehead I don't use even use Eneloops in my 2 D with a 5761, 5.5A is too much for them IMO much less 9.5. For anything much higher than 5.5 I use Elite's, due mainly to the fact that Titanium's are notorious for leaking.

I just checked my setup. The one from FM is a 138 with 11 AA cells and a dummy:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/176255

The other one is a Mag623 with 12 AA cells (sorry for the mistake).
According to this outstanding post from SilverFox
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/79302
you can use eneloops at 10 A discharge rate. There are of course better solutions (like the mentionend elite or titanium cells), but I couldn't found these here and I like the eneloops alot, because of there low self disharge rates. I may miss a couple of hundred lumens, but as I said, it works.

Best regards


Michael
 
Last edited:

LuxLuthor

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According to this outstanding post from SilverFox
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/79302
you can use eneloops at 10 A discharge rate. There are of course better solutions (like the mentionend elite or titanium cells), but I couldn't found these here and I like the eneloops alot, because of there low self disharge rates. I may miss a couple of hundred lumens, but as I said, it works.


All of us love Eneloops, but despite Silverfox's isolated, several run testing graph shown here, they are not designed for heavy discharge as a regular routine. You would have to do a number of runs at high current drain rates and see how well they hold up over time if you are going so far beyond their intended design. My guideline is to use them for up to maximum sustained 5-6 Amp draw.

I also agree with the problems of Titanium's leaking (3 batches over 18 months). Have not used any Titanium AA's for the last 1-2 years, so maybe they have better manufacturing. I switched over to Elite brand without another problem.
 

Hightower

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All of us love Eneloops, but despite Silverfox's isolated, several run testing graph shown here, they are not designed for heavy discharge as a regular routine. You would have to do a number of runs at high current drain rates and see how well they hold up over time if you are going so far beyond their intended design. My guideline is to use them for up to maximum sustained 5-6 Amp draw.

I also agree with the problems of Titanium's leaking (3 batches over 18 months). Have not used any Titanium AA's for the last 1-2 years, so maybe they have better manufacturing. I switched over to Elite brand without another problem.

I agree. But from my point of view a MAG100 isn't a edc. For me it's a setup to impress my friends to light my bbq smoker with a flashlight. And for me the eneloops are a good choice, because I can get it easy here (the starter of this thread is german, too) and I don't mind of a short lifetime.

Best regards

Michael


P.S.: @LuxLuthor: haven't had a personal response from you here, yet. Just want to say you thanks a lot for your work at cpf. Your testing of incandescent bulbs helped me f.e. very much to understand hotwires.
 

LuxLuthor

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I agree. But from my point of view a MAG100 isn't a edc. For me it's a setup to impress my friends to light my bbq smoker with a flashlight. And for me the eneloops are a good choice, because I can get it easy here (the starter of this thread is german, too) and I don't mind of a short lifetime.

Best regards

Michael


P.S.: @LuxLuthor: haven't had a personal response from you here, yet. Just want to say you thanks a lot for your work at cpf. Your testing of incandescent bulbs helped me f.e. very much to understand hotwires.

I appreciate your note, thanks.

I also understand being able to use Eneloops for those "show stopper" moments--demonstrating what a bright incan can do. The Eneloop being such excellent cells in general, they may tolerate that use just fine. We just don't know how long they will hold up under extreme loads. The thing that would answer that it is to keep doing run graphs at 10A, and see how many cycles, and how the performance curves look over time.

It would be an easy project for any of us with a CBA-II. If I get bored, I'll try it. That would take it from reasonable speculation to actual testing.
 

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