NEVERMIND: How to measure drive current for an intended emitter swap?

[brighterisbetter]

I'm considering doing a straight emitter swap on an Inova T4, and I'm not sure how to determine what the drive current is to the LED. The multimeter I've got is a Craftsman True RMS like the one seen HERE, except mine has the infrared thermometer function too. I'd like to avoid instaflashing an LED if at all possible, is there a way to determine drive current while the power is on, and what setting should I have it on? Is that all the info I need to know for a swap, besides voltage out the front? The T4 has a 18650-type LiIon cell that's labeled 3.6v / 2150mAh if that helps. I was thinking of putting an XRE or MC-E emitter in place of the LuxIV.

I've decided not to mod it after all :huh:

 

[TigerhawkT3]

Re: How to measure drive current for an intended emitter swap?

All you need to do is make sure you're using a compatible emitter. For example, if your current light has a LuxIII, your best bet is probably a Seoul. This has more to do with die height in the reflector than current usage.

There is no such thing as a LuxIV.

The MC-E has four dice and would be a more complex mod to a single-die light.

You might want to read the Welcome Mat.

 

[brighterisbetter]

Re: How to measure drive current for an intended emitter swap?

Hmmmm, after reading this review, I thought it had a LuxIV, but perhaps it's a LuxIII like you say. I also thought having the TIROS optic, that die height wouldn't be all that important in producing a tight focus. I guess I'll have to do a little more homework. I've got a dremel and could machine the sink a little to accomodate an emitter with a larger base, such as the P7 where the wiring would be more simple than an MC-E.

 

[Gunner12]

Re: How to measure drive current for an intended emitter swap?

Doing anything to the optic might screw up it's optical properties.

IIRC the TIROS(their optic) T4 uses a Luxeon III, so a Seoul P4 swap should be easier.

 

[LukeA]

Re: How to measure drive current for an intended emitter swap?

Hmmmm, after reading this review, I thought it had a LuxIV, but perhaps it's a LuxIII like you say. I also thought having the TIROS optic, that die height wouldn't be all that important in producing a tight focus. I guess I'll have to do a little more homework. I've got a dremel and could machine the sink a little to accomodate an emitter with a larger base, such as the P7 where the wiring would be more simple than an MC-E.

Die height is extremely important with TIR optics, even more so than with reflectors.

As mentioned above, don't try to modify the optic.

A P7 won't work well in this light. Neither the stock driver nor the stock optic will accommodate a P7 the way they will accommodate a P4.

 

[brighterisbetter]

Well as per everyone's advice, I'm going to hold off on modding the T4. It's going to stay on the charger in the garage as a utility light, thanks for all the advice.

 

[griff]

nothing ventured .......nothing gained:naughty:

 

[thegeek]

If the light has a LuxV in it then an MC-E wired in 2s2p would work well with the driver, not sure how the optic would make things look, but it should be bearable at least. If it's a luxIII, then an SSC P4 would be a direct swap, and probably work great with the optic. I would say dig into it. Once you get to the emitter you can tell for sure what it is, then decide whether or not to proceed.

 

[ledaholic]

Go ahead and put in a P4, you will like the difference. I did this and it is much improved. It is just a direct swap.