New 123 Lummi

[M.TEX]

OK not sure if this info is at some place...but what will be price range
for this light ?

Did I read right ? you got 500 600 lumens on your try ???

Wow ! anyways I would like to know about and be on the line for another
fantastic criation....

Is it 2009 as you guys know....how early they will be out ?

Thanks

M.TEX

 

[shomie911]

Any updates?

 

[orb]

I'll be putting in some more prototype work during the next few weeks.

 

[mightysparrow]

Very cool! A great candidate for my first Lummi, as others have said here. 🙂

 

[sunsync]

Count me in! I love the 'old' design of the RAW and the WEE, but something new like your prototype will be stunning as well.

 

[morati]

Was wondering if these are still gonna be produced?

 

[medieval]

Paypal ready for one of each. I too echo the sediment on making it like the Raw and Wee. Simple design, yet striking. Probably a lot less machine work involved too.

 

[Blades]

I'll be putting in some more prototype work during the next few weeks.

It has been a few weeks, any new pics?? 🙂


Jason

 

[Dead_Nuts]

1 x 123 is my favorite format and I would love to have a Lummi in that size.

Waiting patiently . . .

 

[groo01]

Groo here
If you will make this light with the MCE led and a pocket clip
[wire or some smooth desigh not those flat screw on things]
I hope you can ship to the USA as I WILL have one.
Ps Please make it usable with AW rechargables.
Please contact me when payment is needed .
Thankyou

 

[Southernlight]

Rob, are you still looking at doing 2 levels? Could 3 stages be possible? Something like 2, 30, High ?

 

[sunsync]

Rob,
I know you're busy with the Da and Ag, but can you status us regarding the Lummi 123? Do you think we can expect this new light by mid-year? Keep up your excellent work, I'm loving the Raw NS and Wee NS.
:twothumbs
The NS threads are silky smooth, can anyone tell me if there any sacrifice in smoothness with other materials? And, do any of you use primary batteries like Saft LS 14250 in the Raw? Any problems? It appears I would have to strip off the outer, label layer to make it fit (I'm assuming this will not damage the integrity of the battery).

Thanks!

 

[MKLight]

Rob,
I know you're busy with the Da and Ag, but can you status us regarding the Lummi 123? Do you think we can expect this new light by mid-year? Keep up your excellent work, I'm loving the Raw NS and Wee NS.
:twothumbs
The NS threads are silky smooth, can anyone tell me if there any sacrifice in smoothness with other materials? And, do any of you use primary batteries like Saft LS 14250 in the Raw? Any problems? It appears I would have to strip off the outer, label layer to make it fit (I'm assuming this will not damage the integrity of the battery).

Thanks!

I've tried the Saft. It fits in there perfectly. I haven't done any runtime tests and have only used that battery infrequently...just to see if it worked. I plan on using that only in an emergency, as I usually carry one 10280 fully charged spare. The main reason I purchased them was for my mom, as I gifted her a Raw NS and she is not comfortable in charging them. Anyway, the low mode seems about the same; the high mode is maybe 1/2 as bright.

Good luck!
Mike

 

[sunsync]

Interesting response Mike,
It's strange - the Saft absolutely will not fit into my Raw NS, the plastic covering starts to bunch up, and I can only push it about a quarter inch into the body-obviously don't want to force it. Before I pulled off the plastic label, I kinda wanted to hear if this would be detrimental to the battery. Good to know it works once I get it in although I'd hate to give up brightness over the rechargeable battery. I'd planned on carrying a couple primaries instead of the charger, guess I won't.
Thanks for your help,
Mike

 

[MKLight]

Hey Mike,

When I ordered the Saft, the place I bought them from said that some batteries from the same manufacturer were being manufactured in multiple places, including the US, Europe, and Asia. It was an ambiguous comment, so I don't know if Saft was included, but I wouldn't be surprised it they were...A millimeter or two could cause the issue you've experienced.

IIRC, taking off the battery "wrapper" won't cause any effects. I think the wrapper is more of an advertisement than a benefit.

Also, to answer your question about different materials, my NS is smoother than my Ti, but after polishing the threads with metal polish and toothpaste (at different times and both recommendations I found on CPF), the Ti is nearing the smoothness of the NS. Also, I'm not sure about the aluminum on Lummi's, but as long as you use lubricant, all my aluminum lights are smooth (some smoother than others). Rob and Mike Salt recommend Nyogel 779ZC under "These are high end flashlights, I should not have to maintain them, right?" here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=190715 It works well.

Good luck! 🙂
Mike

 

[groo01]

Groo here
I would like to suggest that a push button be added to the base,
If this allowed the light to go to FULL EYEBALL FRYING MCE POWER,
the light would double as a defensive device.
A scoff-law would have a problem finding you after a quick
shot of 600+ lums and the light would still supply good lighting and run time
on a rcr123 and use a primary in an emergency.[primary not a requirement]
Note: I like the twisty for different power settings the tail switch would
be for momentary only.😗

 

[wiseghost]

Rob, are you still looking at doing 2 levels? Could 3 stages be possible? Something like 2, 30, High ?

3 stages is a great idea! It would be perfect EDC in that case. :thumbsup:
Orb, is that possible?

 

[sunsync]

Rob and Mike Salt recommend Nyogel 779ZC under "These are high end flashlights, I should not have to maintain them, right?" here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=190715 It works well.

Thanks Mike,

I use Nyogel 779ZC on all my lights, I find with the NS lights it keeps things nice and smooth as new. It's very tempting to buy the Wee or Raw in the other metals, but probably will wait for a completely different offering from Rob, like the new 123.

Mike

 

[MKLight]

Mike,

The NS and Ti are both cool. It's surprising there is such a price difference when both are very unique.

I'm looking forward to seeing what Rob creates.

Take care,
Mike

 

[SteveStephens]

It's surprising there is such a price difference when both are very unique.

Nickel silver is easy to machine while titanium is nasty and eats tools. Ti costs more, too. Thus the difference in price.