New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.

[Jfowler]

I bought my Haiku with a HIVE driver in December. I used it in stock form for a few weeks, and was very happy, but felt I was not getting the full experience without learning how to utilize the different options this driver offers.

Ill be clear about something - this was my first attempt at learning how to program a custom light. I have never used a soldering iron, and I don’t speak “toggle” or “flash”.

I read this thread through a few times, and read RUSH’s operating guide several times. None of it will really click until you just solder that jumper closed, sort out the toggle, and see the flash sequence. I actually got the programming functions much quicker than I figured out the toggle sequence to easily get into programming mode.

To keep this post brief as possible, my point is simply that novice users (like me) should not be intimidated by something that seems complex at surface level. To relate it to a similar hobby, I felt like learning how to program my Haiku was akin to learning how to clean and sharpen my Sebenza. If someone is stuck, ask a question and I’ll see if I can translate my experiences.

For the record, I am currently running a XP-L HI (4200k) Haiku with 16650 battery pak. I set the HIVE driver to turn off memory, and flipped it to the three level setting.

 

[Slumber]

Congrats on nailing the programming! A good alternative to soldering the jumper is using pencil graphite. I mostly use my Haiku as a two mode (no memory) light.

 

[Jfowler]

Congrats on nailing the programming! A good alternative to soldering the jumper is using pencil graphite. I mostly use my Haiku as a two mode (no memory) light.

Thanks! I started with the graphite trick, and it absolutely got me into the programming mode - but it only worked like 1 in 20 times. I couldn’t tell if it was my lack of toggle skills or poor conductivity, so I eliminated the possibility of poor conductivity by soldering the gap.

I had much better success post solder (probably batting around .500), but unsure if it came down to the solder joint or my improved timing. Either way, in my experience with this driver, the problem solving got easier when I could eliminate a variable.

 

[Kalsu]

For the record, I am currently running a XP-L HI (4200k) Haiku with 16650 battery pak. I set the HIVE driver to turn off memory, and flipped it to the three level setting.

Do you have a picture of your Haiku with the 16650 battery pack? I have been considering getting a 16650 pack for the light I have on the way.
Glad you got the programing figured out. I had Don solder the bridge on my light so when I get it I can play around with the programing.

 

[Jfowler]

Here is a pic.

https://imgur.com/gallery/g50c43R

It is about exactly 5” in length.

I am thinking about getting a 1x123 pack for it just for tradition. If the McGizmo collection grows, the 16650 will probably take on lego duty, and I’ll spec the future lights with 1x123 packs. The 16650 pack looks great in pictures I have seen with Mahi and Sundrop heads.

 

[Kalsu]

Here is a pic.

https://imgur.com/gallery/g50c43R

It is about exactly 5” in length.

I am thinking about getting a 1x123 pack for it just for tradition. If the McGizmo collection grows, the 16650 will probably take on lego duty, and I’ll spec the future lights with 1x123 packs. The 16650 pack looks great in pictures I have seen with Mahi and Sundrop heads.

Thanks for the picture. I like the look of that.

 

[Jfowler]

Can someone explain their preference for running a specific voltage foldback setting?

If it helps, I plan on running 100% rechargeable batteries in the 1x123 and the 1xAA (14500) paks.

I am really trying to grasp this one in the user guide, but I am struggling to understand which option is preferable for me. I’d love to hear a simple explanation on minimal vs optimal (vs primary) settings.

 

[jon_slider]

I’d love to hear a simple explanation on minimal vs optimal (vs primary) settings.

since you plan to use LiIon, focus on that first

the difference is that optimal warns that the battery is low, sooner, which gives you less runtime, but prolongs the lifetime of the battery

Good call on the voltage thresholds for the output reduction for different cell types. The reduction steps span a certain voltage range, for all but the 2x NiMH/alkaline that range is 0.5 V.
I've added this information to the manual.

Setting / Cell type​	Voltage threshold first reduction step​	Voltage of last reduction step​
1: Li-Ion minimal​	3.0 V	2.5 V
2: Li-Ion optimal​	3.3 V	2.8 V
3: Lithium primary​	2.5 V	2.0 V
4: 2x NiMH/Alkaline​	2.1 V	1.9 V

the other battery chemistries have different operating voltages than LiIon.. dont worry about it, unless you use those cells

 

[Jfowler]

I’ve stared at that chart. I have the full user guide book marked.

So optimal sacrifices run time in favor of protecting the longevity of the actual battery... I have to admit, I’m not overly concerned about the lifespan of a rechargeable battery.

I was really hoping it was like a maximized output w/ sacrificed runtime vs sacrificed output for maximum run time sort of thing.

 

[desert.snake]

Another interesting observation for levels up to 25 ma at 1000 ma setting - that is, 1-4 level flickers, 5 does not flicker, 1 and 2 levels go out on their own after a while, and they all go out if I am outside in cool weather. When turned on, a flash is visible, but there is no further light. My friend suggested to me that most likely the extinction is due to the parameters of the diode, in the cold, the resistance of LED increases and the current current is not enough for ignition. I tested it in a freezer (-18 C) at level 3 (12 ma), which burns well indoors and then at level 4 and 5 - nobody turns on, only a faint first flash is visible, but when I put it in warm water, it starts to shine again.

Maybe this is due to a specific instance of the LED?

I have XML2. For example, Nichia indicates in coils voltage grades, Cree does not indicate it, I did not find this in the datasheet, but it is quite possible that the Cree have a similar spread of characteristics, and if there is a coincidence of an inappropriate diode and cold weather, it will go out on small current.


Or it may be due to the fact that in the driver itself, because of the cold, something freezes and it does not produce the current that it should?

Or does both the LED and the driver freeze?



it would also be nice to move the setup steps 14 15 between 4 and 5 steps, so it's really more convenient than going through all the steps if you just want to change the memory type and velocity

 

[GarageBoy]

With the current HIVE - if I understand, PWM is only used on the lowest few levels, and one can raise the level to a threshold where PWM is not used if it bothers them?

 

[JWRitchie76]

Hello,
Can someone explain to me in Layman's term how to simply turn off the mode memory function in my Haiku? Thanks!

 

[archimedes]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.

Hello,
Can someone explain to me in Layman's term how to simply turn off the mode memory function in my Haiku? Thanks!

It is a pretty long process overall, not really complicated, but detailed. Where are you getting stuck ?

Probably obvious, but to start ...

• your driver is the HiVe ?

• the jumper is soldered closed ?

• you can enter programming mode ok ?

• you have a copy of the flowsheet available as a guide ?

 

[JWRitchie76]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.

It is a pretty long process overall, not really complicated, but detailed. Where are you getting stuck ?

Probably obvious, but to start ...

• your driver is the HiVe ?

• the jumper is soldered closed ?

• you can enter programming mode ok ?

• you have a copy of the flowsheet available as a guide ?

Yes I have the newer hive driver. I have not attempted to do any programming yet. I am aware that the "jumper" needs to be shorted. Been trying to figure out what all the mumbo jumbo is in the 9 page manual? I mean seriously, what does the word "volatile" have to do with mode memory? So yea, I'm just to the point where I'm trying to make heads or tails of what the manual is actually saying and trying to decipher the ridiculous flow chart that looks like it was developed by someone at USPS. Sorry it's just a little annoying is all with the goofy terms and wording.

 

[archimedes]

The manual uses the term "persistent" to mean mode memory, and "volatile" to mean no mode memory.

I believe those terms may derive from computer jargon.

 

[archimedes]

I'll add that Figure 2, at the top of Page 5, was the key to my understanding how to program the HiVe.

I don't know if anyone has done a video guide on this programming, but actually seeing the process would make it far easier to understand than reading how to accomplish this.

 

[McGizmo]

I'll add that Figure 2, at the top of Page 5, was the key to my understanding how to program the HiVe.

.....

Can you provide the post number as page size and number seems to be a function of browser and display size. Thanks!!

 

[archimedes]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.

I'll add that Figure 2, at the top of Page 5, was the key to my understanding how to program the HiVe....

Every detail included in that drawing is important, and worth studying in detail.

Can you provide the post number as page size and number seems to be a function of browser and display size. Thanks!!

I meant from the PDF ...

 

[McGizmo]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.

Oops! Makes sense!! Thanks.

 

[archimedes]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.

Oops! Makes sense!! Thanks.

Sure, cheers !

Enjoyable to have the ability to set these up exactly to preference