Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.
The guides and flow charts are a bit tricky. I had to translate for myself - if we are wired the same, you may find this helpful...
First, bridge the little gap. I have 4 HIVE drivers; 2 are soldered, 2 used the graphite pencil trick. The pencil works surprisingly well.
Second, the toggle description is weird, because the counts given (2 long, 4 short, 2 long) are actually the off periods. Again, I couldn't wrap around that. I had to actually write it down so that I could re-do the count in terms of presses. You never have to latch the clicky switch to a true "on" - I'll use the term "tap" as a stand in for momentary on. And it is really just a tap; just press long enough to make the light flash. IMO, the better description for the toggle sequence (from off) would be:
tap, pause, tap, pause, tap,tap,tap,tap,tap , pause, tap, pause, tap+hold
The pauses are long enough that the light level never changes. Those rapid taps in the middle are fast enough to make the light level change.
If you count the pauses and the spaces between the rapid taps in the middle, you will see the 2 long, 4 short, 2 long sequence.
If you got it right, the last hold will start a programming sequence. You will see a disco flash, 1 set of blinks, then a second set of blinks, then another disco flash, then a constant medium brightness, then a constant low brightness. Just hold the clicky down and let the cycle complete. Once the cycle is complete, you can just hit the clicky with a bunch of taps (at least 6) to get out of programming. I suggest getting really good at the toggle before screwing around with the levels in programming. It will save you frustration.
Can you comfortably enter programming?
The guides and flow charts are a bit tricky. I had to translate for myself - if we are wired the same, you may find this helpful...
First, bridge the little gap. I have 4 HIVE drivers; 2 are soldered, 2 used the graphite pencil trick. The pencil works surprisingly well.
Second, the toggle description is weird, because the counts given (2 long, 4 short, 2 long) are actually the off periods. Again, I couldn't wrap around that. I had to actually write it down so that I could re-do the count in terms of presses. You never have to latch the clicky switch to a true "on" - I'll use the term "tap" as a stand in for momentary on. And it is really just a tap; just press long enough to make the light flash. IMO, the better description for the toggle sequence (from off) would be:
tap, pause, tap, pause, tap,tap,tap,tap,tap , pause, tap, pause, tap+hold
The pauses are long enough that the light level never changes. Those rapid taps in the middle are fast enough to make the light level change.
If you count the pauses and the spaces between the rapid taps in the middle, you will see the 2 long, 4 short, 2 long sequence.
If you got it right, the last hold will start a programming sequence. You will see a disco flash, 1 set of blinks, then a second set of blinks, then another disco flash, then a constant medium brightness, then a constant low brightness. Just hold the clicky down and let the cycle complete. Once the cycle is complete, you can just hit the clicky with a bunch of taps (at least 6) to get out of programming. I suggest getting really good at the toggle before screwing around with the levels in programming. It will save you frustration.
Can you comfortably enter programming?
