New EDC Light Recommendations.

[Stefano]

Mostly open trails and wildlife can be an issue in the Northeast USA. Walk at fairly fast pace for 1 hour. CRI is not super important but would be nice if it does not negatively affect brightness too much. I have a headlamp, looking for hand held. All weather.

Thank you.

If you have a headlamp to see around you then you can consider a flashlight that has throw (starting from a minimum of 20,000 cd and above)
Some of the flashlights you have listed are not eligible (Acebeam only has 8500 cd)
If you need to see far you can also consider recent Fenix models with SFT70 led (TK20R V2.0 or TK22 TAC)

 

[shane1]

@Stefano - Any experience with both Fenix PD35 V3 vs TK20R V2? The TK20R looks a little big for carry?

 

[bykfixer]

Question regarding the Elzetta Bones…..Is it a single output? No hi/low?

Correct. On/off only.

 

[Stefano]

@Stefano - Any experience with both Fenix PD35 V3 vs TK20R V2? The TK20R looks a little big for carry?

No I have no experience with Fenix PD35 V3.0 but only with V2.0 and earlier versions.
The PD35 V3.0 is not bad as a flashlight but comes with a "small" 2600 mA battery.
It has a cigar shape and a diameter of 25mm, it can be very convenient in a trouser pocket.
The TK20 V2.0 has a 34mm diameter head, it will require a holster or jacket pocket to carry.
Other considerations: The 34mm head offers better light performance and better heat management, the TK20 V 2.0 has 3000 lumens but can hold them for a minute or so It can hold 1000 lumens for 10 minutes before dimming a bit.

The Fenix PD35 V3.0 drops in brightness from 1700 to 1000 lumens in 2 minutes and 40 seconds.

I found this information in online reviews but it is not specified at what temperature the test was done and whether a fan was used or not.
Outdoors in wind and cold temperatures you may be able to maintain high performance for a significantly longer time.

They also have different batteries: 18650 battery with 2600 mA capacity vs 21700 battery with 5000 mA capacity.
To recharge the PD35 v3.0 you will need to take out the battery and connect it with a cable.
In the TK20R v2.0 the charging port is external.

Another consideration: the price of the TK20R V 2.0 is high while that of the PD35 v3.0 is lower.
Personally I would not go into a dense forest with either of them but if you are on an open path or in a deep field the matter is different.

Always consider that the PD36R could be inserted as a compromise between the two.

 

[Stefano]

@shane1
I add to the text of the previous message that when you have to make a choice you should not only look at the maximum power and how long it can be maintained but the level immediately below the maximum.

This is the High level of 600 lumens and 11700 cd for the PD35 v3.0 and it seems that it can be kept for two hours or so (with 2600 mA battery) is not bad and could be more than enough for your walks.

For the TK20R V2.0 the High level is 1000 lumens (17600cd) for at least 10 minutes then according to the various reviews present online it drops to about 800 lumens and can be maintained for about 3 hours.

All this can be of little importance if you walk with the headlamp on and use the torch you hold in your hand only a few seconds every now and then, to see far only when you need it (I do this) in this mode of use the heat management and how many seconds you can use the Turbo ceases to be a problem.

 

[kerneldrop]

Be sure to wear oven mits while holding on to 800 lumens.

I once spent $80 on an import light. It quit working after a week.
I keep the host because one day I'll replace the internals and put Anduril 2.0 on it since it's an E-switch.
Now I build my own lights or buy various boutique lights where I know the makers.
I recommend the $20 Convoy/Sofrin/Fireflies because I know what makes lights go bright.

If you want a light that you'll pass down generations then spend just a little more than you would on a Fenix and Zebra and get a Malkoff.

 

[shane1]

Be sure to wear oven mits while holding on to 800 lumens.

I once spent $80 on an import light. It quit working after a week.
I keep the host because one day I'll replace the internals and put Anduril 2.0 on it since it's an E-switch.
Now I build my own lights or buy various boutique lights where I know the makers.
I recommend the $20 Convoy/Sofrin/Fireflies because I know what makes lights go bright.

If you want a light that you'll pass down generations then spend just a little more than you would on a Fenix and Zebra and get a Malkoff.

Looking at the Malkoffs now. Looking at the MD2 with M61HOT with hi/low ring or the MDC HA 1CR123. Also Surefire EDCL2-T. Any recommendations?

 

[SYZYGY]

slightly off-topic, but does ZL have actual high CRI lights as well? like SST20 or Nichia or the sort..? Or can you emitter swap it?
I'd be mildly interested in a sc64, but only if I can use it with some proper color rendering

yes, ZL has actual high CRI offerings. like cree xhp and samsung LH351D (an actually respectable emitter for emitter snobs, which the sc64c le has).

if you want more options like nichia 519a or 219b (or luminus sst-20), the sc64c le is a good choice for modding because the driver has compatible voltage and emitter pads. i actually just put a 519a 3500K dedome in one and like it a lot.

[MOD] Zebralight SC64c emitter swaps

i just bought a new sc64c le to put a 519A 3500K dedome. first time taking one apart. i ground down the handle of some metal spudger tool i had on my bench. you could probably make a tool out of almost any suitable piece of steel. just needs to be rigid enough to not flex in use. i worked it...

budgetlightforum.com

here's a thread about sc64 emitter swaps. i linked to my first post about modding mine recently, but the whole thread is worth a read if you're considering it.

@Bob_McBob mods and sells them (he's also on BLF and reddit if you can't get ahold of him here). there are probably other people that could mod them for you too.

you may enjoy this post with a comparative beamshot:

The Official Zebralight Thread .

5000K dedome is fantastic, @kerneldrop made me a P60 with one.

www.candlepowerforums.com

Yes you can definitely emitter swap. You will have cosmetic marks, but those are just beauty marks needed to make that light beautiful again.

if you make a good enough tool, it is actually possible to get the bezel out without chewing it up. mine looks pretty unmolested. also, the sc64c le looks pretty good even unmodded. i just wanted a warmer temp and rosier tint.

 

[SYZYGY]

If you aren't buying American made like Malkoff then don't pay more than what a Convoy S2+ costs, which is $20.

I'm sure Zebralight is great, but $80 for a light I can recreate for $20 is a hard sell. If I'm using an eswitch it'll have Anduril 2.0 on it.

Be sure to wear oven mits while holding on to 800 lumens.

I once spent $80 on an import light. It quit working after a week.
I keep the host because one day I'll replace the internals and put Anduril 2.0 on it since it's an E-switch.
Now I build my own lights or buy various boutique lights where I know the makers.
I recommend the $20 Convoy/Sofrin/Fireflies because I know what makes lights go bright.

If you want a light that you'll pass down generations then spend just a little more than you would on a Fenix and Zebra and get a Malkoff.

are you sure you understand what ZL offers? there's no way you can recreate it for $20.
more or less industry-leading, high-efficiency driver design. 12 brightness levels (6 are convenient to get to based on which you select), including sub-lumen moonlight modes. unibody construction for superior heat transfer / thermal efficiency. they are also among the most compact lights, especially relative to their output and thermal performance. sc64 series is just a bit larger than an 18650.

what directly competes with it? afaik, nothing. but also worthy of consideration is emisar. some of their lights have high efficiency (boost) drivers, but they don't have moonlight. overready boss probably competes with it as well, but it costs >$500. also, whoever makes the drivers for the boss makes really cool lights too. the name escapes me. but irrc those cost >$1k and are in limited runs.

from my perspective, aside from being american made and probably being built to withstand more abuse (at the expense of being significantly bulkier and heavier), malkoff lights appear to be inferior in every way.

i do appreciate american made stuff (and other "premium" COOs). i have a lot of fancy american, german, and japanese hand tools. stuff that could be passed down and used probably as long as tooling and fastener drive systems don't change standards. but the idea that an electronic device should be passed down through generations is completely absurd. just think of the flashlights we had as kids. i wouldn't pass that sһit down to anyone, even myself today. all that stuff is in the trash. battery, driver, and diode technology will continue to improve over generations.

please expand upon your perspective since i'm sure it doesn't match mine. basically i'm asking you to convince me to buy a malkoff because i could use another light

 

[fulee9999]

actual high CRI offerings. like cree xhp and samsung LH351D

you and I have very different opinion on what high CRI is. I had an LH351D "high CRI" pill once and to this day it's the biggest disappointment in my flashlight choices...

well while I was typing that out I realized I still have the LED I removed on the MCPCB somewhere and I have the means to measure spectral data, so I did

Some say data beats opinion, however even tho this is a fair R9 LED, it just looks horrid and green to my eyes.
I did measure it outside a flashlight so that might have an effect on it, but yeah, by the numbers it's great, in real life it's horrid.
So to sum up my rambling, I just wanted to say I'm not going anywhere near the Samsung LH351d if I can help it

 

[SYZYGY]

you and I have very different opinion on what high CRI is.

we don't, actually
CRI is well defined, as you've shown. it's quantitative.

to be fair, you asked about CRI, not about tint, beam evenness, or overall beam appearance.
i stand by my assessment that ZL offers high CRI options stock. you have also demonstrated this.

note that i modded mine with nichia 519a. not because of CRI but because i like the look of the output more.

i think you're getting quantitative vs qualitative assessment mixed up or convoluted.
and it sounds like we both prefer emitters like what nichia offers for qualitative reasons.

 

[fulee9999]

to be fair, you asked about CRI

yeah, you're right, and there is a reason why the flashlight community is moving away from CRI to using rather like the TM30 to have an idea about the emitted light... thanks for the info anyway, if and when I come across a ZL in the future I'll try to remember your BLF post

 

[SYZYGY]

did you see the link i posted about modding sc64? why not put your emitter of choice in one

also, just because the LH351D you have on hand is ugly, that doesn't mean they all are. i wonder if ZL has a better batch. but either way, just put something sexier in there. it's not that hard.

I'd be mildly interested in a sc64, but only if I can use it with some proper color rendering

 

[kerneldrop]

are you sure you understand what ZL offers? there's no way you can recreate it for $20.
more or less industry-leading, high-efficiency driver design. 12 brightness levels (6 are convenient to get to based on which you select), including sub-lumen moonlight modes. unibody construction for superior heat transfer / thermal efficiency. they are also among the most compact lights, especially relative to their output and thermal performance. sc64 series is just a bit larger than an 18650.

also, whoever makes the drivers for the boss makes really cool lights too. the name escapes me. but irrc those cost >$1k and are in limited runs.

Serge of Lux-RC Labs makes the drivers.

I've never heard a bad thing about ZL. It's an excellent option should you want the bells and whistles ZL claims.
The most knowledgeable flashlight guy I know speaks highly of them, so they must be excellent.
I would get one if I didn't have too many other lights.

I'm a simple dude just needing a light to turn on and off. Malkoff high/low switch fills the bill for me.

My personal preference is a tail switch with 1-3 modes. If I want to get into several mode options then I'll use a stepless rotary that goes from .01 - 600 or an Anduril 2.0 that goes from .01-1,200.
The Sofrin Anduril is $25.

Edit: I don't put too much value in driver efficiency or thermal design. There's very little difference in an inefficient driver vs efficient driver. The H17fx is the most used custom driver on the planet and it's an "inefficient 7135". Heat spreads to pretty much anything. titanium custom lights are a fan favorite, and they get hot fast.

 

[kerneldrop]

Looking at the Malkoffs now. Looking at the MD2 with M61HOT with hi/low ring or the MDC HA 1CR123. Also Surefire EDCL2-T. Any recommendations?

You may carry the MDC more bc it's easier to carry. The M61 is large for a pocketable EDC.

If I could only pick one I guess I'd do the MDC Neutral 16650. You can EDC it in the pocket and it's bright enough for outdoors with good battery capacity

Surefire is always a great choice.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Not sure how much spot or flood you prefer. Emisar has some capable options. Multi emitters on high will drain the battery pretty fast. The inch and a quarter reflector (D1) with a single dedomed 5700K 519a has a lot going for it, when it comes to good throw for that sized flashlight but decent spill. Do yourself a favor and go for a good color rendering LED. The loss of lumens is really not that much, especially if you are not a master blaster.

A person who likes portable illumination a lot should try a good ramping flashlight (Anduril variant).

SST-20 4000K is a small die and offers a good compromise for smaller reflectors for those wanting more throw than flood. The Samsung LED in my ZL SC64 LE does not look as pleasing to my eyes as the two others mentioned here.

 

[:)>]

For me I think that the Malkoff MDC is the best EDC package available. It has excellently spaced levels and can be used with rechargeable 3.0V batteries by Keeppower. The clip is excellent also... oh and the beam quality is excellent.

 

[shane1]

Can anyone tell me if there are any discount codes for Malkoff?

 

[scalpel_ninja]

Can anyone tell me if there are any discount codes for Malkoff?

15% off for signing up for their newsletter.

 

[shane1]

I tried but it is not coming through. Also, I ordered a P60 a few years back so maybe that is why I am not getting it.