NEW- ENERGIZER ALUMINUM 1 WATT- 1XAA LED FLASHLIGHT(lots of pics)

Yoda4561

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Ahh, the p4 needs to be isolated?? Is there a trick to it or just put a tiny dab of the AA epoxy on and stick it on the heatsink?
 

Stereodude

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Ahh, the p4 needs to be isolated?? Is there a trick to it or just put a tiny dab of the AA epoxy on and stick it on the heatsink?
I have found there is a trick to it. If you use the epoxy and just put the two together you can still get metal to metal contact. I put a very thin coat (as thin as possible, basically a finger smear) of AA on the bottom of the LED first, let it cure for ~10-15 minutes, then stick the P4 down with more AA, or with just normal thermal compound (if I think I will want to get the LED off later).
 

ps56k

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how can you tell these are Luxeons vs Rebels
just by looking at the lens end - while still in the blister package ?

the one I have is product # - MLT1WAAE
hmm - decoding model number ???
ML (?) T (tactical switch) 1W AA (E) what's the E ?

here's the 3w version... MLT3W2AAL

SO - I'm guessing the MLT = Metal, LED, Tactical
then 1W or 3w
then AA or 2AA (should have been 1AA or 2AA)
then E = standard "Energizer Alk" or L = Energizer Lithium ??
 
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Stainz

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A good series of questions re the E Al 1W 1xAA, especially when compared with the similar priced, but US-made, Inova X1 (V2/3): Out of the package, is it a good spot or flood? Is it brighter? How is the run time? Does it still work after the drop-catch-it-on-the-first-bounce test? Sure, a better emitter can be installed... but then it isn't the same light anymore. Mods are great, I just want to know how it fares 'out of the blister pack'. Sounds well made. Thanks!

Stainz
 

Yoda4561

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Out of the box: Medium spot with wide spill, good but not excellent color(it's on the warm side), beam is smooth but not perfect when shined at a white wall, much much brighter than my Gen2 Inova X1, at least 4 times the percieved brightness(this is a conservative estimate) it'll light up the house across the street easily, but it's no 60+ lumen surefire in that respect. Runtime was about ~2 hours by my estimation, but that was with intermittent use and I wasn't actually timing it. I'll take some outdoor beamshots tonight comparing the energizer with my X1 and an Inova Radiant 2xAA(just so you know the Energizer is a good bit brighter and throws further), and I'll throw in my 3d MagLED for kicks.
 

copperfox

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Here is a summary of what I've done to the Energizer 1xAA light: Swapped luxeon emitter for SSC P4 U-bin from DX, SW0 tint. DIY orange peel reflector using Rustoleum Painter's Touch Crystal Clear Gloss as seen here. I also cleaned every bare aluminum contact surface with deoxit and progold.

Straight out of the pack with the lux emitter and the energizer cell that came with it, I estimated its output to be equivalent to the Novatac 120P's 30 lumen setting. After the modifications, using a charged Eneloop, I estimate its output to be equivalent to the Novatac's 42 lumen setting. Please note that my Novatac has a UCL lens, so it's probably closer to 45-50 lumens. I'm very happy with the result. The beam is on the floody side thanks to the SSC emitter and the stippled reflector. Given its 1AA form factor, knurling, forward clickie, beam pattern, and 50 out the front lumens, this is a great around the house, general purpose flashlight. Go buy one and mod it!!! :rock:

Sorry, still no runtime estimates.
 

Marduke

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how can you tell these are Luxeons vs Rebels just by looking at the lens end ?

the one I have is - MLT1WAAE
hmm - decoding model number ???
ML (?) T (tactical switch) 1W AA (E) what's the E ?

They physically look different.

emitIII.jpg



white_web.jpg
 

alfreddajero

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Im really guessing that the MP would be a lot brighter........but i was finally able to see one on the hook today and got one......maybe i should have gotten two.....lol....great for the price.....and another thing that i like is the forward clicky......momentary on is always a good thing.....but it does seem to be a touch sensitive for my liking.
 
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ps56k

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notice any difference in beam
with change in battery - 1xAA -
Alky vs Lith vs NiMh ?
 

Delta

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I have mine already sandblasted in with a few others...I also ordered some new mineral glass lenses for it.

This is one of the lights that will be getting the Duracoat treatment soon. After that, there won't be much else I can do to it.
 

dannyduke

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I just have the light. Mine wasn't hard to take off the head and the combo from it. Swapping the emitter is beyond my skill, but I like to see how the beam would be without reflector (I just love having 1 light that's all flood)
Can anyone show me how to safely detach the reflector (to be reattached if needed) ?
 

copperfox

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First unscrew the pill by placing the tips of a pair of needlenose pliers in the two holes on the underside of the pill. These two holes are in the middle of the black plastic ring, outside of where the positive end of the cell makes contact. Twist this counter-clockwise to unscrew it. Once you do this, the reflector will be visible. If I remember correctly, there are two notches in the bottom of the reflector for you to get leverage. It should be self explanatory once you see it. Let me know if this helps. :)
 

dannyduke

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Thanks copperfox,

Unscrew the pill was no problem, I did it after took the head off from the body (I meant the pill as "combo" in my first post). Now look at the reflector I still have no clue, it's like a round frame built tightly inside the head. The notches I see just like 2 small indents on the frame that lies against not the reflector but inside of the head. Stick the long "dental" pick in I could spin the reflector around but can't make any leverage up and out
 

copperfox

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Just keep spining the reflector until it threads its way out. I don't know what you mean by "leverage."

The exterior of the reflector is threaded to accomodate the interior threads of the head. The threads are very fine, requiring many turns. When you spin the reflector does it get any closer to the opening, or any farther away from the plastic window?
 

Brad

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I went to Target today. I just picked up the 1aa cree and the 2aa rebel lights. For $17 these are really nice. Good fit and finish. Great threads too. As soon as I got home I put some Super lube synthetic grease on all the threads. They work extra smooth now.

These are the nicest lights for under 20 dollars I've ever seen in a local store. I'm very happy with them so far. I'm doing a little runtime test on them now. I put two Eneloops in the one and a single Duraloop in the other. So far they've been on for two hours and no dimming yet. The 2aa is a little hot but I've had it just sitting on the nightstand. Not real hot though. The 1aa isn't even warm. Very nice for the money.

I'm glad I bought these. The tint is nice on both but the 2aa is a little warmer and more to my liking. They both lit up the basement real nice.

For the money they seem like a good deal. Now to see how well they hold up over time.
popcorn.gif
:popcorn:

Update: The 1aa went out at 2.5 hours. No moon mode. The 2aa is real dim but still going.
Update: 2aa went out at 3 hours.

Brad
 
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Burgess

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Stumbled upon this thread again. :thumbsup:


However, the Photos no longer show. :thumbsdow

_
 
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