*new* Fenix E20 (2014 edition)

[WarRaven]

No hehe, more like burn in.

 

[ForrestChump]

No hehe, more like burn in.

I'll try the deep fryer next.

Nothing like home cooked Fenix.



After the Alkaline's ( not sure if that was tottaly fair as they were "drawer" batteries ), She's definitely taking a trip to the post office tomorrow.

 

[leon2245]

Haha yeah if it passes the F.C. quality test... you know it's good!

 

[WarRaven]

Disappointing though I'd wager almost as rare as hens teeth.
Try again.
Edit, I mean, try another light.

 

[ForrestChump]

Haha yeah if it passes the F.C. quality test... you know it's good!

HA HA Thanks.

Whenever I say "Forrest approved" that light got a SERIOUS inspection. My OCD won't have it any other way. If it's a light Im keeping for awhile it gets extensive water testing.
If it's on the sales thread and like new I inspect all functions to a T, not a twinkle gets by modes, switch inspection, properly cleaned and lubed......... I wish I had a "Forrest Approved" badge...I don't toot my horn on the "Forrest Approved" thing though, I figure I sell or recommend enough lights the rep will catch up to the phrase. Im running out of brands to recommend though...manufacturers have to try harder. I only have 3.

Disappointing though I'd wager almost as rare as hens teeth.
Try again.
Edit, I mean, try another light.

Cooked it for a half hour, as predicted this just sped the process of showing the flicker faster after the lights warm. This is identical to the E1DL I had.

Like I said Im pretty sure lights that blast so high have a hard time on low. Im NO expert, just my gut.

 

[WarRaven]

Could be, sounds like a bad light though.
I can't imagine this getting by others and not getting caught or mentioned a fair bit.
Not to take anything away from or downplay the FC rating guild honestly, just can't see it being a broad issue in this case.


Even the missed click mystery was found on LD12, wasn't always present or obvious, though it was.

 

[ForrestChump]

Could be, sounds like a bad light though.
I can't imagine this getting by others and not getting caught or mentioned a fair bit.
Not to take anything away from or downplay the FC rating guild honestly, just can't see it being a broad issue in this case.


Even the missed click mystery was found on LD12, wasn't always present or obvious, though it was.

Without other samples it's a toss up. Although I will say there are many positive attributes of the light. If you use it for it's intended purpose and aren't an avid reader or are looking for a twinkle, you should be good to go.....that is if this is even a wide spread problem and not simply a lemon.

 

[recDNA]

187 yeah?


Also, I didn't really go over the light with a fine toothed comb, I hit it quick with alcohol and a T-Shirt.

Maybe I should give her another shot....... Im almost certain this is a engineering thing that goes unnoticed as there aren't many people who would read with a light like that...

It's a twinkle, but does seem to have a pattern, the problem is the pattern is inconsistent which looks like a flicker....

No idea what output is but i would guess less than 187 with 2xAA and xrer2

 

[ForrestChump]

Fenix E20 2014 - Low Mode flicker

#2.............

 

[WarRaven]

Are you kidding?
That really sucks.

Apologies for encouraging a second run at the light.
Guess only some are sensitive enough to have experienced it and reported here at CPF.


You didn't put eye drops in before testing did you 👻

 

[ForrestChump]

Are you kidding?
That really sucks.

Apologies for encouraging a second run at the light.
Guess only some are sensitive enough to have experienced it and reported here at CPF.

You didn't put eye drops in before testing did you 

I highly doubt anyone reads with this light. Or for that matter really uses low mode up close on a flat surface.....

This is not an uncommon problem and is also found often in SF lights as well.

I just don't know how any company puts this thing through a light meter and doesn't see the flicker in the chart.

Im positive this is an engineering issue. Perhaps companies think it's not a big deal, or perhaps it adds additional cost to the light vs's the returns they receive?

I have a ProTac 1 AAA that has the most noticeable PWM I have ever experienced, but it is consistent enough to were if you use it for reading, you can't see it on the page. Dosen't bother me at all...0 flicker.

Other than this issue the light is pretty awesome, the beam is WAY better on this one, the build quality, mode change, fit and finish are all perfect.

What to do?

 

[WarRaven]

Maybe keep it as blaster on high output?

Try stretching spring a wee bit maybe?

 

[ForrestChump]

I think Im going to live with it. The light is pretty darn nice and the price is unbelievably low. I have no doubt this affects many lights form many manufacturers and goes unnoticed.

My magic OCD powers.

 

[ForrestChump]

Seems to only have a twinkle on low using lithium batteries. I don't have any duraloops handy but would guess they would put up a rock solid low mode like the alkalines have been doing.

Thorough cleaning, confirmed twinkle / flicker on low.

None the less, very useful and nice light. Immaculate construction, fit & finish. Excellent tint ( last one was way more on the green side ) and beam. Definitely a thrower, useful spill for up close tasks.

Despite the twinkle everything seems very reliable. The shake feature has a learning curve but is now near instant. This is so you can use the light in a normal manner without accidentally bumping modes, the action is very deliberate to switch modes. Even small drops don't change the output. Running however, I'd lock it out.

Locked out @ 125 your getting around 5 hrs of output off lithium / 2500mah nihm....I think this would make a great LEO light. The non crenelated bezel could definitely take out a window in a pinch. 125 may not sound like much, but it's definitely more than adequate with this beam pattern.

For $30-$35 it's a no brainer.

 

[ForrestChump]

Seems to only have a twinkle on low using lithium batteries.

Anyone care to chime in as to why? Help a chump out....

 

[WarRaven]

Buck circuit having issues with higher forward voltage of lithium's?

You've no loops?
🔋

 

[ForrestChump]

Is this something that can put strain on the buck circuit & it?

I only run Lithiums. I got to say, switching over to AA / AAA is WAY more cumbersome, complicated and expensive coming from CR123 Primaries.

 

[WarRaven]

No worse then going to RCR really, except there, your losing or giving up capacity, where as here going to NiMH you're gaining.
About long term implication or if what I thought is the case,
I can not confirm nor deny that I am sorry.

Though, with some idea and best guesstimates I'm thinking if alkaline work, then NiMH should be fine too.
Might be higher voltage from lithium's causing issue.

Now others can find an give an exact answer, I've not left you alone without at least a guess to what's going on.
Someone is going to eventually say, that's incorrect or stupid so just making my peace there lol.

 

[ForrestChump]

Now others can find an give an exact answer, I've not left you alone without at least a guess to what's going on.
Someone is going to eventually say, that's incorrect or stupid so just making my peace there lol.

:thumbsup:

Thank you.

I do hope someone can tell me what the longterm effects are from running lithiums??? All these views no one knows.....

Someone is going to eventually say, that's incorrect or stupid so just making my peace there lol.

I don't think so but if they did, they would have to deal with me first. :devil: No one messes with Forrest's friends....

 

[WarRaven]

Right on lol, I'm golden then.

Others will weigh in eventually I'd think.
If not may have to grab a pack of loops to test it out and verify if still present. Another way would be,..
When these lithium cells are near worn out,check then.. It'll take a bit to drop their voltage I'd guess too for the record.
That should give us results to perhaps conclude higher voltage causing flicker.