New guy learning about 18650 details...

[bigbob76]

I probably sound like a broken record, I've said this so many times but I am so happy to have found this forum. I've always had an unusual interest in flashlights but my only experience outside of AA, AAA, C, or D cells has been my purchase of several Surefires over the years that use the 123 cells. I avoided any of the budget lights because I was so confused with all of the abbreviations/acronyms etc. Since I found this forum I've ventured out and bought some budget lights that use the 18650. I've been doing a lot of reading on here and have a bare bones understanding so far. I know just enough to realize how much I don't know, lol. For the time being I'm going to try to stick with the 18650 powered lights. Thank you in advance for correcting any of my assumptions. I have a couple of lights that use (2) 18650 cells so I am assuming I must use button top cells, that is all I have so far anyway. Otherwise they would not make contact with each other, right? I will only buy major brand protected cells and I see how manufacturers exaggerate their ratings. My next step is to buy some cells and a charger. Hopefully I can buy a charger that is as close to idiot proof as possible without spending a lot of money. I use my lights everyday at work as a building inspector. I squandered a little bit of money before I read about things like flood and throw. It seems that I mainly need a concentrated beam of light at between 3 and 10 feet distance and it doesn't have to be extremely bright. When reading the descriptions of lights for sale what would I look for to meet that requirement. I had been using my Surefires for welding inspection where I wanted bright light and would be right on top of the welds to be inspected. I've been using the AA budget lights for looking at nails and screws at between 3 and 10 feet distance. Some of the budget lights I've bought so far that don't suit my needs will get wrapped up and given as gifts next Christmas! Two of the budget lights I bought were because they used (2) 18650 calls and were single mode. I do know that one thing so far, I definitely do not care for messing with a bunch of modes I don't need. I will perhaps end up carrying two lights, one low power flood beam and one concentrated high power beam. Wow, I am really long winded, lol.

 

[ChrisGarrett]

Welcome aboard.

Don't know what you're asking, but if you want a plug and play li-ion charger, there are a few like the Xtar VC4 (USB) li-ion/NiMH charger that one inserts the cells/batteries into and waits for the light to go green.

Same with the NiteCore D4.

Both are somewhat slow, but do charge up faster with only two slots filled.

Something like the 2 slot Xtar VP2 is fairly cheap ($35 shipped,) but requires some button pushes; however, it's a very flexible li-ion only charger that handles all the sizes, chemistries and voltages.

For something a bit more involving, the Opus BT-3400 v. 2.2 (or the newer v. 3.1) will do both li-ion and NiMH and is flexible. It's also an 'analyzing' charger and can give you a bit more 'status' on the health of your cells/batteries above and beyond the VC4 and D4 listed above.

Good luck.

Chris

 

[KeepingItLight]

Is color rendition important for home inspection?

If so, you may want to try out something with a high-CRI Nichia 219B emitter. CRI is an acronym for "color rendering index." LEDs with a high CRI do a better job rendering colors accurately.

 

[bigbob76]

Welcome aboard.

Don't know what you're asking, but if you want a plug and play li-ion charger, there are a few like the Xtar VC4 (USB) li-ion/NiMH charger that one inserts the cells/batteries into and waits for the light to go green.

Same with the NiteCore D4.

Both are somewhat slow, but do charge up faster with only two slots filled.

Something like the 2 slot Xtar VP2 is fairly cheap ($35 shipped,) but requires some button pushes; however, it's a very flexible li-ion only charger that handles all the sizes, chemistries and voltages.

For something a bit more involving, the Opus BT-3400 v. 2.2 (or the newer v. 3.1) will do both li-ion and NiMH and is flexible. It's also an 'analyzing' charger and can give you a bit more 'status' on the health of your cells/batteries above and beyond the VC4 and D4 listed above.

Good luck.

Chris

Thanks for the info Chris, when I looked at the Nitecore D4 I bought it. Usually I take my time and shop around. This package deal was on Amazon for $49 in a damaged package and I bought it. I had enough Amazon points that I didn't have to spend any cash and it was free shipping. I needed batteries anyway. Thanks, Bob

[h=1]Nitecore D4 Digicharge universal home/in-car battery charger, Four Nitecore 18650 NL183 2300mAH rechargeable batteries with 2 X EdisonBright AA to D type battery spacer/converters[/h]by Nitecore

 

[bigbob76]

Is color rendition important for home inspection?

If so, you may want to try out something with a high-CRI Nichia 219B emitter. CRI is an acronym for "color rendering index." LEDs with a high CRI do a better job rendering colors accurately.

Thanks very much. In my building inspection work the color factor doesn't matter. In my other work on the side, on aircraft, it would matter because there is a lot of color coded stuff. I have kept my certifications up to date (Airframe and Powerplant with Inspection Authorization) but haven't been doing any work lately. Thanks, Bob