New Lathe...Changed from PM 1127-VF To a PM1236

[tino_ale]

I remember one 27mm titanium head I got from Scott (TB) years ago. The fit of the reflector to the head was so tight that one had to place the reflector and then gently tap the head, watching the reflector slowly but freely sitting down to it's final location. Any attempt to actually push the reflector would stuck the part as one can't puch a part perfectly straight by hand.

Needless to say, there was no ratling or centering issue whatsoever. Premium work as always with TB.

 

[Davo J]

Nice pictures and that 0.001mm scale will make things better.
I have fitted 4 DRO's and they all state to remove those plastic pieces as they are for set up alignment.
The scales have a piece built into the end cap to stop them over traveling.

Dave

 

[darkzero]

Interesting, none of the Sino documentation I received states anything about removing them. I'll just leave them on for now.

EDIT: Just talked to the supplier I got my Sino stuff from, he said to remove them. Guess I'll do that. Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[Davo J]

I thought they where only for shipping and alignment. It was the Meister manuals I know for sure they said to remove them, but would have to check the Sino one I have.
The only damage I could see them doing is they would rub on the aluminum housing depending on how tight the small screws are pushing them apart.
All mine are in the spare parts box, so don't throw them away as they might be needed latter if you take them off for some reason. I always use feeler gauges to do the setting, and just use the plastic to get close.

Dave

 

[darkzero]

I have a request for a Ti spear/javelin that's going to be 30" long. So now I'll finally need an outboard spider. Time for me to make one too & here's my version which will thread into the spindle.

Spindle thread is 1-5/8-16. My spindle bore is 1.535" at it's smallest point on the gear train end. so I'm able to fit 1.5" stock all the way through with no issues. YMMV as some have reported their spindle bore to be just under 1.5". The bore is larger towards the chuck side.


Started out with some 2"Ø CRS.

Used the 4 -jaw to face & center drill both ends.

I only have a pitch mic for external threads that has a 1" capacity & I haven't messed around with thread wires yet so I'll be turning between centers.

Used my custom Android app to calculate thread depth (I may have given some of you guys the PC app which has evolved to Android now with a few more calculators. Will, Barry, Ray, Dan & Bob, if you have Android devices and are interested send me a PM or email ).

Test fit, not enough depth & need to tweak the major Ø.

So back on the centers a few more times until I was happy with the fit.

Now it screws in all the way & I'm happy with the fit.

Drilled up to my largest bit on hand, 1". I've been wanting to get the larger set of S&D drills but I'm not sure if it's worth it & I wish I had one more lower spindle speed around 30 rpm. I use the cheap China S&Ds, they work fine for me even with Ti 6-4.

A Fowler electronic edge finder showed up today as I've been curious about them. At $30, cheap enough to give it a try. Have to be real careful with this solid type as the tip does not "break away". It works by contacting the metal & continuity through the mill (to think, the tip contacts the work piece, then through the chuck, super spacer, table, base/leadscrews, column, to the head, then the spindle, collet, & finally the edge finder's body, what a journey). I may try the more expensive break away ball type tip later but they have their limitations & advantages because of the ball. Just testing it here, I still just used the good ol conventional edge finders.

Used the SS to drill, tap, & chamfer four holes.

Back to my little trusty Enco 4x6 to cut off the excess. If you haven't noticed, I made a pull out tray using a thick aluminum baking pan that's mounted to the frame. No more using a cardboard box anymore sitting under the middle tray & fine chips all over the place when using it. Keeps the middle tray much cleaner too now. Those slides for the tray was the very first thing I made on the mill.

Final boring to allow 1.25" stock to fit through comfortably.

The finished spider. Really wish I had some better steel on hand than 1018 but this should last me a while.

Now I can continue on with the Ti javalin....

Thanks for looking!

:wave:

 

[precisionworks]

Very nice work on the spider/cathead 🙂

... Ti spear/javelin that's going to be 30" long ...

Since the part is 30" long & the machine has 36" between centers why did you not turn the spear/javelin between centers? Most of the barreled actions that arrive at my shop have to be turned between centers as they will not fit through my machines spindle bore. Another plus for centers turning is that runout approaches 0.000000" (but Royal's manufacturing tolerance +/- 0.000050" TIR & that's about what I see ... half a tenth).

Just wondering.

 

[darkzero]

Very nice work on the spider/cathead 🙂

Thanks Barry!

why did you not turn the spear/javelin between centers?

Now I can continue on with the Ti javalin....

Ok, so I lied. 🙂 After I made the spider & posted, I was playing with it & then realized I really didn't "need" it after all but it sure was a good excuse to make make one. 😉

Actually the javelin is two pieces so it made it easier to make. Still required use of the follow rest though. I didn't turn it between centers cause the entire thing is knurled. There's cases where the work piece will slip in the 6-jaw when knurling Ti where I would then use the 3-jaw but it hasn't happened often.

I was afraid the drive dog would slip when knurling between centers. But to be honest I really didn't think of it much, I guess I could have milled a flat to prevent slippage but the forces of knurling Ti is far greater than I am comfortable putting on two centers let alone one. I've knurled aluminum between centers but never anything else.

First time I have ever knurled Ti longer than 8" or so, each piece had a 16" section of knurling. Had to use the follow rest & the lathe made so many new noises that I had never heard before. I think she was telling me that she did not like that but she was a sweetheart & pulled both of them off without incident. I sure was scared though as was standing off to the side with my foot resting on the brake. I now know every part on the lathe that can possibly make rattle noises.

 

[darkzero]

I've been wanting to make some sort of spindle work stop & I was going to make a second threaded spindle adapter for this purpose while I was making the spider. The Aloris spindle stop for the size I need is over $400. Rovi Products who are near my work offers a similar version for less than $200. Dorian also makes them but I couldn't find a price on them or anyone that sold them. If anyone is interested & has a spindle bore of 1-5/8" to just over 2", there's a seller on ebay who has a few of the Dorian sets for $160. Damn, I wish they had my size, they look nice!

Well happy birthday to me, bought myself my own birthday present. 🙂 MSC carries the Yuasa spindle stop for just over $200. Went to the local MSC outlet yesterday & ordered one. My sales guy gave me 15% off of it. Picked it up today, model SWT-105. Way better than anything I could have made & it's simple to use. The wrench is overkill long (my guess it's the same wrench used for all their sizes). I think I may make a shorter one someday.

 

[wquiles]

Nice work as always Will 🙂

Will, Barry, Ray, Dan & Bob, if you have Android devices and are interested send me a PM or email.

I will be sending you an email shortly 😉

 

[darkzero]

Nice work as always Will 🙂

Thanks Will! 🙂

 

[darkzero]

The wrench is overkill long (my guess it's the same wrench used for all their sizes). I think I may make a shorter one someday.

Took care of that today. I don't have a welder so using some drill rod, CRS, & a M4 SHCS, this is how I made a new handle.
Now the wrench fits in my tool box.

 

[precisionworks]

Just remember ... it makes one heck of a noise when you leave the wrench handle in the headstock & start the machine at 1500 rpm ... don't ask me how I know :devil:

 

[gadget_lover]

Just remember ... it makes one heck of a noise when you leave the wrench handle in the headstock & start the machine at 1500 rpm ... don't ask me how I know :devil:

You obviously need to use a spider of some sort to support the outboard end of that wrench. If you can't find the one you just made, you can always wrap about an inch of masking tape around the shaft, building it up till it's a good fit. 🙂


Daniel

 

[darkzero]

Just remember ... it makes one heck of a noise when you leave the wrench handle in the headstock & start the machine at 1500 rpm ... don't ask me how I know :devil:

You obviously need to use a spider of some sort to support the outboard end of that wrench. If you can't find the one you just made, you can always wrap about an inch of masking tape around the shaft, building it up till it's a good fit. 🙂


Daniel

:laughing:

Thanks for the tips guys, I'll try to remember that!

 

[PEU]

the backside end of the spindle its usually threaded, you could turn a brass or delrin bushing to keep that rod centered.


Pablo

 

[darkzero]

the backside end of the spindle its usually threaded, you could turn a brass or delrin bushing to keep that rod centered.


Pablo

Pablo, yes if you look a few posts back I utilized this spindle threads to make a spider. The wrench for the spindle work stop is not meant to stay in the spindle. The wrench is only used to tighten the spindle stop to secure it in the spindle or to loosen it & pull the workstop out of the spindle. As Barry was being funny, I think Dan's comment was a joke too, at least that's how I took it if he was not mistaken.

 

[gadget_lover]

Yes, I was joking too.

I should mention that I do have a drawbar that I threw together quickly which does have a wad of masking tape to keep it centered as I tighten the nut against the washer. It is in effect a single use spider made of tape. It does work.


Dan

 

[darkzero]

I bought a couple of ER40 plates last year, finally got around to mounting one to the lathe. Pretty happy with the way it came out. Measuring the run out on the inside taper where the collet sits the needle barely even moves at all.

Made a handle for holding it while tightening/loosening. Also showing a 1" Lyndex ER16 extension that I scored for cheap.

 

[darkzero]

Also made me a test bar. Before using this test bar I had .0008" taper over 18" which is not bad considering the error from both the chuck & drill chuck using methods 1 & 3 here.

 

[wquiles]

Made a tommy bar for it. Also showing a 1" Lyndex ER16 extension that I scored for cheap.

That sure came out very nice indeed 😉