StrikerDown
Enlightened
Broke! I wonder why
I think that must be the life of a budding machinist... at least those that listen to Barry!
Gorgeous hardware dude! :twothumbs (read; JEALOUS)
New Lathe...Changed from PM 1127-VF To a PM1236
- Thread starter darkzero
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Broke! I wonder why
I think that must be the life of a budding machinist... at least those that listen to Barry!
Gorgeous hardware dude! :twothumbs (read; JEALOUS)
alexmin
Newly Enlightened
Guys,
how do you remove the chuck on your PM1236?
how do you remove the chuck on your PM1236?
precisionworks
Flashaholic
A "chuck catcher" is a really good lathe accessory, and easy to make if you have basic wood working skills.
Use a hardwood like oak or walnut and make the width the same (or just a little larger) than the outside bed width. Add a skirt on each side to keep the catcher in place. It can be lifted up and placed anywhere on the bed, and the smooth wood underside will not harm the machined ways. Place it under the chuck when installing or removing, and the ways will thank you :thumbsup: Mine often sits outboard of the tail stock (photo above) & provides a good spot for hex keys or a mic, or any other small tooling.
precisionworks
Flashaholic
😀😀😀
Total cost in the chuck catcher (way protector) might be $2. I only buy those things that can't be easily shop built ... meaning most everything
StrikerDown
Enlightened
The first time I popped the D1-4, 3 jaw off my 1440 (same as your chuck Alexmin) I had the plywood 4 jaw box top on the ways (and they were grateful!). The chuck was so STUCK I had to smack it with the large dead blow 15 or more times rotating it between smacks! I was starting to wonder if the cam locks were loose or miss marked! It finally popped loose when I least expected it and it slipped out of my grip landing on the plywood.
I'm going to get some wood and make a tool/chuck catcher, bigger than the box top! That looks like a great idea Barry.
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alexmin
Newly Enlightened
Talking about STUCK. This chuck should be added as an example to every dictionary for word STUCK
Took me an hour(actually more but I am too embarrassed to admit it) to persuade (with knocking and a cheating bar) cam lock pins to move.
Today I'll proceed to removing the chuck.
I have two questions:
1. What is the purpose of the three hex screws + spring + pin setup?
This small pin seems to be pushed into a groove on a camlock pin. Does it help with camlock pin alignment? It does not seem to prevent movement of cam lock pins.
2. I found that one of the pins is missing on my chuck. The screw and spring are there but no pin. Does it affect anything?
Took me an hour(actually more but I am too embarrassed to admit it) to persuade (with knocking and a cheating bar) cam lock pins to move.
Today I'll proceed to removing the chuck.
I have two questions:
1. What is the purpose of the three hex screws + spring + pin setup?
This small pin seems to be pushed into a groove on a camlock pin. Does it help with camlock pin alignment? It does not seem to prevent movement of cam lock pins.
2. I found that one of the pins is missing on my chuck. The screw and spring are there but no pin. Does it affect anything?
StrikerDown
Enlightened
I'm not sure what pins and springs you are talking about? My cam lock pins screw in to the back of the chuck or back plate and are kept from rotating loose or tighter by an allen head screw. Got a pic?
The pins get pushed by the springs onto the camlock, so you need 3. The camlock as well as having a groove has a small dimple in it so when you unlock the camlock you will hear/feel a click and that is the pin going into the dimple, then your right to take the chuck off. If you have a look down the spring hole the dimple should line up when the camlock is opened. I had trouble with mine and had to move the dimple over with a rotary burr so it lined up.
Davo
Davo
Very nice. In shop class, almost every lathe has it's own fitted "chuck catcher".
Here's a pic I took today of one on a smaller Regal. Not as much as a custom fit like most the Le Blondes which are cut to match the contours of the ways for each lathe (I think this one originally belonged to another lathe). Definitely a necessity as most chucks are 8" & 10" as well as some even larger & heavier 4 jaws.
I guess I was lucky? My 3 jaw was easy to remove, one firm tap with a rubber mallet & the chuck broke free. On mine there was a good amount of oil between the mating surfaces of the chuck back plate & spindle (which could also help make it feel "stuck").
I won't even try to unlock the cam locks with the key provided. I use a long ratchet & an extension to lock & unlock the cam locks. The cushioned handle is also a nice luxury. 🙂
The springs are on the chuck's back plate? I've never removed the cam lock pins entirely but I don't recall seeing any springs. The hex screws only keep the cam lock pins in place, they aren't meant to tighten the cam lock pins securely. Remove the hex bolt to adjust the cam lock pin's length by screwing or unscrewing them, them reinstall the hex bolt to keep the pin in place. I had to adjust one of mine to get a nice lock up.
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They are to hold the camlocks in place. If you undo the alen head bolt you will find a spring and below that is a small rod that is pointed but has a flat on each side.
On my lathe
https://ishop.gasweld.com.au/ishop/stock/item/580713
it has a drilled hole in the rod for the spring to sit in and if you remove the small rod the camlock can then come out.
I just went down and took mine out to give you a better idea of the setup as they say a picture is worth a thousand words. You can see in the picturewere I had to move the dimple/hole over a bit to line it up properly.
Now only to find I can't upload the pictures? Any help
Trying again for a photo
Davo
On my lathe
https://ishop.gasweld.com.au/ishop/stock/item/580713
it has a drilled hole in the rod for the spring to sit in and if you remove the small rod the camlock can then come out.
I just went down and took mine out to give you a better idea of the setup as they say a picture is worth a thousand words. You can see in the picturewere I had to move the dimple/hole over a bit to line it up properly.
Now only to find I can't upload the pictures? Any help
Trying again for a photo
Davo
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Clark
Newly Enlightened
http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/LathePreciionMatthews1236cradlefor4.jpg
http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/LathePM4jawchuckandlathecradle.jpg
[2 oversize images replaced by links - DM51]
I had one system of lathe cradles for chucks when I had an 80 pound Buck Chuck to lift and spin on a L00 thread on my Clausing 5914 lathe.
Now that stuff is replaced with the Precision Matthews PM1236, thanks to this forum, and the 4 jaw is a little heavy but not bad.
I came up with a new system for the 1236.
I still have the process:
1) Lift chuck by the cradle handle and set it on the ways.
2) Slide the cradle to the headstock.
3) Rotate the chuck in the cradle until it clocks with spindle.
4) Slide the cradle toward the headstock an chuck and spindle engage.
Notice the glass bedding on the PM1236 cradle to get axial alignment.
http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/LathePM4jawchuckandlathecradle.jpg
[2 oversize images replaced by links - DM51]
I had one system of lathe cradles for chucks when I had an 80 pound Buck Chuck to lift and spin on a L00 thread on my Clausing 5914 lathe.
Now that stuff is replaced with the Precision Matthews PM1236, thanks to this forum, and the 4 jaw is a little heavy but not bad.
I came up with a new system for the 1236.
I still have the process:
1) Lift chuck by the cradle handle and set it on the ways.
2) Slide the cradle to the headstock.
3) Rotate the chuck in the cradle until it clocks with spindle.
4) Slide the cradle toward the headstock an chuck and spindle engage.
Notice the glass bedding on the PM1236 cradle to get axial alignment.
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StrikerDown
Enlightened
Nifty system :thumbsup:. But now you have added to my project list 
I got a bit tired of using a hex key for the carriage lock so like some of the larger lathes I wanted to make a lever for it.
The old method
After a bit of looking around I found a bolt on solution. I chose a Kipp adjustable (multi position) lever. These would probably be great for mills, after they are locked/tightened you can pull the handle up to disengage it from the splines & move it into any position to keep it out of the way. As I find more applications for these I will definitely be getting more. They come in different shapes, sizes, & materials. The stainless ones are nice but are very expensive, I choose one to match my lathe the best.
All I used aside from the Kipp lever is a small spacer so the lever doesn't come in contact with the carriage. I'll probably add a spring to it to give it some resistance when not locked down.
Removed the old bolt, simply screwed in the new lever.
Here's the lever lifted up which can be moved into 20 different positions after it has been tightened down.
Positioned out of the way, probably will rarely ever get in the way on the lathe.
Overall view
Probably not a common solution but like my 8x14 I decided to change the compound bolts. On the 12x36 the original studs & bolts did not strip like the 8x14 but I got used to using hex head bolts & find it much more convenient.
M10 bolts with some heavy duty washers from Mcmasters
Used some Grade 8 bolts that I threaded the heads then cut them off & ground down to use as the nuts.
So now with the carriage lock lever the old hex key still gets use for the compound. Much more easier than using my long Matco wrench which I don't like keeping away from the set anyway.
The old method
After a bit of looking around I found a bolt on solution. I chose a Kipp adjustable (multi position) lever. These would probably be great for mills, after they are locked/tightened you can pull the handle up to disengage it from the splines & move it into any position to keep it out of the way. As I find more applications for these I will definitely be getting more. They come in different shapes, sizes, & materials. The stainless ones are nice but are very expensive, I choose one to match my lathe the best.
All I used aside from the Kipp lever is a small spacer so the lever doesn't come in contact with the carriage. I'll probably add a spring to it to give it some resistance when not locked down.
Removed the old bolt, simply screwed in the new lever.
Here's the lever lifted up which can be moved into 20 different positions after it has been tightened down.
Positioned out of the way, probably will rarely ever get in the way on the lathe.
Overall view
Probably not a common solution but like my 8x14 I decided to change the compound bolts. On the 12x36 the original studs & bolts did not strip like the 8x14 but I got used to using hex head bolts & find it much more convenient.
M10 bolts with some heavy duty washers from Mcmasters
Used some Grade 8 bolts that I threaded the heads then cut them off & ground down to use as the nuts.
So now with the carriage lock lever the old hex key still gets use for the compound. Much more easier than using my long Matco wrench which I don't like keeping away from the set anyway.
DM51
Flashaholic
Clark... your post #133 above is inconsiderate as it forces people to scroll sideways - not only in your post, but for all the other posts on the page. Please edit it to put a line break between each photo.
Also, some of your photos are over size. Please read Rule 3 and re-size them, or they will be removed.
Also, some of your photos are over size. Please read Rule 3 and re-size them, or they will be removed.
precisionworks
Flashaholic
Nice mod ... the little details make a huge difference 😀
Reid Tool has dozens of styles of levers:
http://www.reidsupply.com/Results.aspx?pid=1100000
+1
I am still using a hex wrench on my 12x, but I am ready to move to something more user friendly 😉
Thanks. It really does make a great difference, couldn't be happier.
I got the idea from searching MSC's Big Book but MSC only carries a few types.
Reid Tool was also one of the Kipp suppliers I was looking at but they didn't list the exact one I wanted.
I got mine from Fixture Works. They have listed much more of the Kipp products than anyone else. I originally wanted a different one but chose this one since it wouldn't need any modifications to it & matched better.
