BVH
Flashaholic
The Roadaway truck showed up at 1:00. As the driver was maneuvering the skid to the back of the truck, I was quickly checking all sides to be sure there was no obvious damage. NONE seen! Once in the garage, I popped the top and everything looked good, no damage. I quickly checked all the precision surfaces. They all looked very good! Ok, I'll sign the receival slip and let the driver be on his way. I removed the rest of the crate and began cleaning at about 3:00. Took a two hour break for dinner and back to cleaning. Finished cleaning all painted and metal surfaces at about 11:00 PM. Looks 1000% better! I used Honda spray polish to clean the Cosmo off all painted surfaces and penetrating oil to do the metal surfaces. Both worked very quickly to get thru the Cosmo crust. I was surprised how fast the Honda polish worked. I re-oiled all the precision metal surfaces with Way oil.
I took the compound off and as with other machines, there are rocks n stuff in there. No problem cleaning this out. The mechanic in me wants to take off the crosslide. For surely there are more rocks there but I've never adjusted jibs before and don't know if this is something I should do down the road after having gained a bit more knowledge. Taking it off means I'll have to remove and replace the DRO slide too. Question: Should I take this leap and attempt to adjust the jibs and the DRO slide? I have the DRO manual and will read it but since I'm writing, I figured I ask those who've been here before.
Sadly, I probably won't have my stand risers until the weekend. After buying those pricy Footmaster casters and designing a number of versions of risers to accommodate them, I've decided to go with the Mason feet. The Footmasters just don't seem as strong and sturdy as the Masons. The Masons have close to 1.5 X's the floor contact area as compared to the Footmasters. The stand will be much more simple to build this way, too. 2x2, 1/4 wall square tubing instead of the 2x4, 1/4 wall that I was going to use. They will be simple rectangles matching the stand bottoms with short extensions sticking out front and back on the two outer tubes. Once everything is in-place, the welder will weld in two, 2x2 tubes connecting the two base risers to give me a complete box construction with the lathe acting as the top tube. Down the road, I'm going to have the welder make a tool tray between the stands. I just have to move the modesty shield to the back of the stands. To give me mobility, I'm making a "J" lifting cradle that will slide under and snugly around each end riser tubing, allowing me to raise each end with my floor jack and replace the Masons with simple casters if I should need to move the lathe out from the wall. Question: Is it possible that I could tweak and damage the lathe bed by lifting one complete end at a time?
The original distance between centers, front to back of the stand mounting holes is 8.5". I will end up with a distance of 18.5". This should provide good stability for the 4" rise. The riser will stick out 2.5" from the stand, front and back and the Mason foot will be 3.25" out. Hopefully, not too much of a tripping hazard.
I'm getting excited now after the false start two weeks ago. Opinions on my questions would be appreciated.
I took the compound off and as with other machines, there are rocks n stuff in there. No problem cleaning this out. The mechanic in me wants to take off the crosslide. For surely there are more rocks there but I've never adjusted jibs before and don't know if this is something I should do down the road after having gained a bit more knowledge. Taking it off means I'll have to remove and replace the DRO slide too. Question: Should I take this leap and attempt to adjust the jibs and the DRO slide? I have the DRO manual and will read it but since I'm writing, I figured I ask those who've been here before.
Sadly, I probably won't have my stand risers until the weekend. After buying those pricy Footmaster casters and designing a number of versions of risers to accommodate them, I've decided to go with the Mason feet. The Footmasters just don't seem as strong and sturdy as the Masons. The Masons have close to 1.5 X's the floor contact area as compared to the Footmasters. The stand will be much more simple to build this way, too. 2x2, 1/4 wall square tubing instead of the 2x4, 1/4 wall that I was going to use. They will be simple rectangles matching the stand bottoms with short extensions sticking out front and back on the two outer tubes. Once everything is in-place, the welder will weld in two, 2x2 tubes connecting the two base risers to give me a complete box construction with the lathe acting as the top tube. Down the road, I'm going to have the welder make a tool tray between the stands. I just have to move the modesty shield to the back of the stands. To give me mobility, I'm making a "J" lifting cradle that will slide under and snugly around each end riser tubing, allowing me to raise each end with my floor jack and replace the Masons with simple casters if I should need to move the lathe out from the wall. Question: Is it possible that I could tweak and damage the lathe bed by lifting one complete end at a time?
The original distance between centers, front to back of the stand mounting holes is 8.5". I will end up with a distance of 18.5". This should provide good stability for the 4" rise. The riser will stick out 2.5" from the stand, front and back and the Mason foot will be 3.25" out. Hopefully, not too much of a tripping hazard.
I'm getting excited now after the false start two weeks ago. Opinions on my questions would be appreciated.
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