Thanks to JimmyM's X1 Regulator Board, I was able to breathe some new life into my LarryK14. Read about the board here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...e-Order-JM-PhD-X1-PWM-Lantern-Regulator/page2
With the original 4500 mah, Sub-C Nimh pack, the best I ever got was about 7 minutes run time until the spot was noticeably yellow. Worse, whenever I went to use it (somewhat infrequently), the Nimh's had self discharged more than 3 or 4 Volts, which is a ton for this light. I modded in a couple of GensAce 6S/5300 mah unprotected Prismatic Lipo packs in Series giving me about 50 Volts to the regulator. But, in essence, they are protected packs for the following reasons:
1. Jimmys board has many user programmable settings, Low Voltage Cutoff being one of them. I programmed LVC to occur at 43 volts - 3.58 Volts per cell. So the packs are protected from over discharge.
2. I parallel and balance charge both packs to 4.15 Volts per cell using my CellPro PL8 and 2 safe parallel and balancing charging boards, just about the safest hobby charger there is. So the packs are protected from over-charging and cell imbalance.
3. The GensAce packs are rated at 30C continuous and 60C burst. The current draw at 29.8 volts is just under 22 Amps, so the packs are coasting at about 4.2C. Hense, the packs are protected from over-current.
At 43 Volts LVC, the board switches into a programmed 10_second, 14.75 Volt dimming mode and then shuts down power.
I can set up to 5 different Voltages to the bulb (these are obtained by successive pushes of the momentary "On" switch. I set level 1 to 29.8 Volts, Level 2 to 28 volts, Level 3 to 26.5 Volts and Level 4 back to 29.8 Volts. I chose not to use Level 5. Running at Level 1, I get 18 minutes of run time and power to the bulb is 650 Watts. The bulb never dims like it used to because it's in full regulation until the 10-second dimming mode kicks in. (If you look close at one for the frontal shots, you can see where the backing that the bulb sits on, started to melt at approximately 17 minutes - before I noticed it).
I used Deans Wet Noodle 12 awg wire throughout. In my 18-minute test drawing about 22 Amps, it reached about 90 degrees F about 1" from the bulb terminal. Granted, it will be used in a closed environment but I will never run it 18 minutes continuous. Probably 3-5 minute bursts.
Some pics:
Lots of Dremel grinding on the plastic case ribbing to make a nice little snug nest for the batteries. I had to be careful not to go too far otherwise, the batteries would end up being loose in their nest.
More grinding......
Left side Battery, regulator board, Power switch - in back of handle (Power to the board, not the lamp) and On/Level/Off switch (Blue button).
Right side Battery in case.
The original fuse holder stuck too far into the case, interfering with the new, longer packs so I had to basically chop it off (but carefully, so it would still look normal from the outside). I didn't want to do a Mickey-patch on the plastic.
New Power switch and the original plastic bezel that came with the light and was used as a charging port, IIRC. I ground it down so that my slide switch could be used in this position. Since the bolt patterns were not the same, I had to add a metal tab to provide a wedged fit inside the case behind a molded in tang. This switch was optional. It makes and breaks a 3 ma current used by the electronics to stay in sleep mode. I didn't want the draw (self discharge over a long period of time).
Switch and bezel assembly.
Switch/bezel assembly mounted in back of handle.
The front end of the light. Small red wire provides + Voltage (up to 70 Volts) to the board.
I was concerned about heat from this Hot Boy bulb being within 1" of the Lipo packs and the regulator board. I finally stumbled upon a UL listed fire blanket manufactured for carrying your baby/small child out of a burning building. It is nice and pliable but has a super tight knit. I had a tough time just getting a sharp Awe thru it to thread the wires. The back of the bulb was about 275 F degrees after my 18 minute run. I put the blanket up next to it (not touching) and it blocked pretty much all the heat.
If one layer of heat protection is good, two must be better, right?
The back end with fuse and holder installed, connections almost made and Lipo balancing connectors. The fuse holder conveniently wedges tightly down into the rear cavity of the light's rear positioning legs. Obviously, all the Anderson Power Pole connectors are color-coded so I don't get confused when charging and re-connection them all - Well, I certainly hope I don't make a mistake!
Finished top view.
Finished side view. It still looks just about how it looked when it arrived from Harbor freight as a $19.95 special!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...e-Order-JM-PhD-X1-PWM-Lantern-Regulator/page2
With the original 4500 mah, Sub-C Nimh pack, the best I ever got was about 7 minutes run time until the spot was noticeably yellow. Worse, whenever I went to use it (somewhat infrequently), the Nimh's had self discharged more than 3 or 4 Volts, which is a ton for this light. I modded in a couple of GensAce 6S/5300 mah unprotected Prismatic Lipo packs in Series giving me about 50 Volts to the regulator. But, in essence, they are protected packs for the following reasons:
1. Jimmys board has many user programmable settings, Low Voltage Cutoff being one of them. I programmed LVC to occur at 43 volts - 3.58 Volts per cell. So the packs are protected from over discharge.
2. I parallel and balance charge both packs to 4.15 Volts per cell using my CellPro PL8 and 2 safe parallel and balancing charging boards, just about the safest hobby charger there is. So the packs are protected from over-charging and cell imbalance.
3. The GensAce packs are rated at 30C continuous and 60C burst. The current draw at 29.8 volts is just under 22 Amps, so the packs are coasting at about 4.2C. Hense, the packs are protected from over-current.
At 43 Volts LVC, the board switches into a programmed 10_second, 14.75 Volt dimming mode and then shuts down power.
I can set up to 5 different Voltages to the bulb (these are obtained by successive pushes of the momentary "On" switch. I set level 1 to 29.8 Volts, Level 2 to 28 volts, Level 3 to 26.5 Volts and Level 4 back to 29.8 Volts. I chose not to use Level 5. Running at Level 1, I get 18 minutes of run time and power to the bulb is 650 Watts. The bulb never dims like it used to because it's in full regulation until the 10-second dimming mode kicks in. (If you look close at one for the frontal shots, you can see where the backing that the bulb sits on, started to melt at approximately 17 minutes - before I noticed it).
I used Deans Wet Noodle 12 awg wire throughout. In my 18-minute test drawing about 22 Amps, it reached about 90 degrees F about 1" from the bulb terminal. Granted, it will be used in a closed environment but I will never run it 18 minutes continuous. Probably 3-5 minute bursts.
Some pics:
Lots of Dremel grinding on the plastic case ribbing to make a nice little snug nest for the batteries. I had to be careful not to go too far otherwise, the batteries would end up being loose in their nest.
More grinding......
Left side Battery, regulator board, Power switch - in back of handle (Power to the board, not the lamp) and On/Level/Off switch (Blue button).
Right side Battery in case.
The original fuse holder stuck too far into the case, interfering with the new, longer packs so I had to basically chop it off (but carefully, so it would still look normal from the outside). I didn't want to do a Mickey-patch on the plastic.
New Power switch and the original plastic bezel that came with the light and was used as a charging port, IIRC. I ground it down so that my slide switch could be used in this position. Since the bolt patterns were not the same, I had to add a metal tab to provide a wedged fit inside the case behind a molded in tang. This switch was optional. It makes and breaks a 3 ma current used by the electronics to stay in sleep mode. I didn't want the draw (self discharge over a long period of time).
Switch and bezel assembly.
Switch/bezel assembly mounted in back of handle.
The front end of the light. Small red wire provides + Voltage (up to 70 Volts) to the board.
I was concerned about heat from this Hot Boy bulb being within 1" of the Lipo packs and the regulator board. I finally stumbled upon a UL listed fire blanket manufactured for carrying your baby/small child out of a burning building. It is nice and pliable but has a super tight knit. I had a tough time just getting a sharp Awe thru it to thread the wires. The back of the bulb was about 275 F degrees after my 18 minute run. I put the blanket up next to it (not touching) and it blocked pretty much all the heat.
If one layer of heat protection is good, two must be better, right?
The back end with fuse and holder installed, connections almost made and Lipo balancing connectors. The fuse holder conveniently wedges tightly down into the rear cavity of the light's rear positioning legs. Obviously, all the Anderson Power Pole connectors are color-coded so I don't get confused when charging and re-connection them all - Well, I certainly hope I don't make a mistake!
Finished top view.
Finished side view. It still looks just about how it looked when it arrived from Harbor freight as a $19.95 special!
so in other words I need a host that's going to accommodate that bulb which is about 20cm in diameter/width and 10cm deep? Cheers
