New LEMAX LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

BVH

BVH

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Re: New Xeray XV-LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

I would guess that since this is a production light, a GB would have to take place over at MarketPlace in the GB sub-section?
 
XeRay

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Re: New Xeray XV-LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

I would guess that since this is a production light, a GB would have to take place over at MarketPlace in the GB sub-section?

I believe you are correct on that thought. But I am in no way an expert on these issues.
 
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Glowmo

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Re: New Xeray XV-LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

@XeRay: I have a question concerning the two bulb models you offer (D1S and a DL50). Do they have different performances and throw capabilities? Or is it "only" the life span that differs between these two bulbs?
 
XeRay

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Re: New Xeray XV-LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

@XeRay: I have a question concerning the two bulb models you offer (D1S and a DL50). Do they have different performances and throw capabilities? Or is it "only" the life span that differs between these two bulbs?

The DL50/740 is made for higher wattages. and is a P32D socket base while the D1S has the igniter built in with the bulb. You can see it on our website in the products section. The DL50/740 plugs into our XeSparQ igniter socket also can be seen on our website. The DL50/740 looks about like a std Philips D2S or GE D2S bulb. This bulb is much easier (easy) to replace and much faster on the (70) light compared to the D1S version on the XV-LX50. The different performances are mostly based on the watts "pumped" into either of them. The D1S is not suitable beyond about 55 watts, and the DL50/740 is not suitable below about 45 watts or more than 75 watts. The performance and throw abilities are related to the entire engineered optical system and ballast, not only the bulb. The bulb is only 1 piece of the system.
 
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Glowmo

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Re: New Xeray XV-LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

The DL50/740 is made for higher wattages. and is a P32D socket base while the D1S has the igniter built in with the bulb. You can see it on our website in the products section. The DL50/740 plugs into our XeSparQ igniter socket also can be seen on our website. The DL50/740 looks about like a std Philips D2S or GE D2S bulb. This bulb is much easier (easy) to replace and much faster on the (70) light compared to the D1S version on the XV-LX50. The different performances are mostly based on the watts "pumped" into either of them. The D1S is not suitable beyond about 55 watts, and the DL50/740 is not suitable below about 45 watts or more than 75 watts. The performance and throw abilities are related to the entire engineered optical system and ballast, not only the bulb. The bulb is only 1 piece of the system.

You've got me wrong. It's my fault. I'm located in Germany and I know Petr from LEMAX since a few years. So I want to purchase the light from LEMAX. Now I wonder that LEMAX seems to use the D1S buld on the LX70. I want to know whether the performance of the LEMAX LX70 and your XV-LX70 is different. I already asked Petr about the DL50 because this bulb seems to be the more reliable choice.
 
XeRay

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Re: New Xeray XV-LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

You've got me wrong. It's my fault. I'm located in Germany and I know Petr from LEMAX since a few years. So I want to purchase the light from LEMAX. Now I wonder that LEMAX seems to use the D1S bulb on the LX70. I want to know whether the performance of the LEMAX LX70 and your XV-LX70 is different. I already asked Petr about the DL50 because this bulb seems to be the more reliable choice.

If you asked Petr, you should already have the answers then.
The lumens maintenance will be very different over time, and bulb life will also be different.
Initially the performance will be very close, but over time (usage) they will diverge significantly.
Also the DL50/740 is easy to replace (D1S, not quite so) even in the field, because it is socketed and the igniter is not removed to change the bulb.
 
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BeastFlashlight

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Re: New Xeray XV-LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

The lumens maintenance will be very different over time, and bulb life will also be different.
Initially the performance will be very close, but over time (usage) they will diverge significantly.
Also the DL50/740 is easy to replace (D1S, not qute so) even in the field, because it is socketed and the igniter is not removed to change the bulb.
This is very useful information

So does this light dominate the Polarion PH50 in every way?
 
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XeRay

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Re: New Xeray XV-LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

Yes, it's 20W higher output and 35% more reflector area.

Just curious, what is the reflector diameter of the Polarion PH40 and PH50 ??

My guess about 70 mm. if correct, then 10mm less than our 35/50 at 80 mm.
Only an estimate based on about 3 or so inches at the bezel outer diameter, if I am understanding correctly what I have read.

I just made some additional calculations assuming the Polarion reflector is 70 mm diameter.

Our 35/50 being 80 mm, the surface area difference between those 2 is 30% more on the XV-LX50 (80mm) than a 70mm reflector.
Our 35/50 is 80 mm and our 50/70 is 100mm. This is about 50% more surface for our 70 vs our 50.
From a 70 mm reflector going to 100 mm the surface area is in fact doubled (approx).
That is a fairly radical increase of surface area relatively speaking, and substantialy more effective (efficient) at pushing Lumens out the front.
 
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LuxLuthor

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Re: New Lemax LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

We will add something to the pricing page soon as well, we felt that could wait. The intro page was more important.

How about a Toaster attachment?
 
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BeastFlashlight

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Re: New Lemax LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

How are you supposed to maximize battery life, by letting the battery fully drain before a recharge or by topping off the charge in shorter charge cycles? And also, does the brightness level degrade when the battery gets low or is it more of a 'Totally on or totally off' deal?

Man I want this light!! I have enough money for this or a Maxabeam but not both, very tough decision
 
XeRay

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Re: New Lemax LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

How are you supposed to maximize battery life, by letting the battery fully drain before a recharge or by topping off the charge in shorter charge cycles? And also, does the brightness level degrade when the battery gets low or is it more of a 'Totally on or totally off' deal?

Three isuues here to discuss. I will let the experts here comment (detailed) on the best practices, for maximizing Battery life (years), and number of useful life charging cycles. I believe, topping off is good and an occasional, like once a month, a full drain and full recharge.
Again, there are many people here who can answer that question better than me.
The brightness does not change based on battery condition (output voltage). The internal HID ballast is a voltage regulating device and provides consistent output over the battery condition range. Also to optimize run time, use the lower power setting as much as possible (based on need) because the ballast is drawing less amps in this "low" mode. Please read, the downloadable (from the website) operational manual for more details about low battery level operation and behavior. The short answer is, the light either works (adequate charge) or will not work (very low battery) depending on available battery charge, it does not dim on a low level battery charge.

Man I want this light!! I have enough money for this or a Maxabeam but not both, very tough decision

This light and the Maxabeam are very different products (different technologies), with very different visible optical characteristics. You should buy whichever one fits more closely with your intended application needs and likes. The question is, what is your goal in this purchase and how will you use the light once you buy it. There is no "fair" comparison between the 2 lights (Maxabeam and XV-LX70) when it comes to Lumens out the front and I believe true utility as well. The XV-LX70 blows it away in that department. Others in this forum can do a better and more objective comparison, to help you decide which is the best choice for you. I believe our light is far more useful in real life and emergency situations. Others here can and likely will expound on these points of comparison.
 
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BeastFlashlight

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Re: New Lemax LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

This light and the Maxabeam are very different products (different technologies), with very different visible optical characteristics. You should buy whichever one fits more closely with your intended application needs and likes. The question is, what is your goal in this purchase and how will you use the light once you buy it.
Ah yes you are very correct not even close to identical lights, this is like being torn between a Lexis and an H1 Hummer.

One more battery question please, if I were to put this light off to the side for a year and not use it is it fine to just let it sit, or would there be a recommendation to charge it once a month or something like that? Thanks
 
XeRay

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Re: New Lemax LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

Ah yes you are very correct not even close to identical lights, this is like being torn between a Lexis and an H1 Hummer.

One more battery question please, if I were to put this light off to the side for a year and not use it is it fine to just let it sit, or would there be a recommendation to charge it once a month or something like that? Thanks

I would defer to the battery experts here, to best answer that question.
I have some "good" OLDER information regarding that, but I would prefer to publish only the BEST current researched information on that issue.

The battery should be disconnected from the light, that much I am 100% sure of, for any long term battery storage.
There are opinions regarding fridge or freezer storage and optimal charge level for long term storage. I hope someone with the facts will address both of those issues here.
I am also sure, you should not long term store it with less than about 40% charge. So this question remains, should it be stored at what charge level, between 100% AND 40% ???
Thanks in advance, for the help on these battery related questions in this thread.
 
BVH

BVH

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Re: New Lemax LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

Good question on possible parasitic current draw. The small sample of Polarions known here on CPF seem to suffer this issue. I, myself, experienced it with my original PH40. Leave it for 3 months and the battery is completely discharged or discharged enough to trip some type of internal protection. In any case, the light was not usable until re-charged. Seems others with PH40 and PH50 are having the same problems. Not sure about the Reaper. I understand that reed and/or magnetic switch draw some current to operate?

Having had the PH40 and still having my Maxabeam Gen3 upgrade, I will say my preference in these two lights for "purely utilitarian purposes" was the PH40 because of its total Lumens output and well focused reflector design. The Maxabeam is breath-taking with its' pencil-like beam but at 900 Yards, I could not identify what it was that I was illuminating because of the very tiny field of view. The Polarion still had great throw due to the shear amount of Lumens and the much wider field of view being lit up very brightly is much, much more usable.

Notice I emphasized purely utilitarian purposes above. My heart still falls for pencil beam Short Arcs for pure fun.

You can find nice used inexpensive (relatively) Maxabeams on Ebay at almost any point in time. So invoke the CPF motto: Buy them both.
 
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XeRay

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Re: New Lemax LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

Good question on possible parasitic current draw. The small sample of Polarions known here on CPF seem to suffer this issue. I, myself, experienced it with my original PH40. Leave it for 3 months and the battery is completely discharged or discharged enough to trip some type of internal protection. In any case, the light was not usable until re-charged. Seems others with PH40 and PH50 are having the same problems. Not sure about the Reaper. I understand that reed and/or magnetic switch draw some current to operate?

Bob, Are you referring to storage with the battery in the light ??
I would be curious if they have the same issue with charge loss, with the battery removed from the tube. I would bet this is not the case.
High quality cells should have a very very minimal loss over time, as long as there is no current drain (even very small) being applied to the battery.
Battery unconnected is the best way to go.
 
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BeastFlashlight

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Re: New Lemax LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

I am fine with the fact that after a long sitting period the battery will be totally depleted and in need of a full charge, that doesn't bother me. I was more so asking if the long term life/health of the battery is hurt by long term non use, like is it bad to let it sit totally depleted for a LONG period? Thanks
 
XeRay

XeRay

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Re: New Lemax LX70. Killer Polarion PH50.

I am fine with the fact that after a long sitting period the battery will be totally depleted and in need of a full charge, that doesn't bother me. I was more so asking if the long term life/health of the battery is hurt by long term non use, like is it bad to let it sit totally depleted for a LONG period? Thanks

The experts on this battery technology are best to answer this very technical line of questions.
I do know, if the battery is allowed to discharge too far, there is some "point of no return". The battery becomes unusable and must be rebuilt or replaced.
This is true for all batteries using this Chemistry.
 
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