New Malkoff Flashlight: MD2 (Part 2)

bigchelis: please contact me at [email protected]

Sorry everyone but I can't pm so I had to do this here.

If anyone is interested in selling one of the first 100 run of MD2 contact me at the above e-mail addy. Thanks.
 
I just got my Camo MD2 + High/Low switch + M60WF and it it AWESOME! :rock:

I've been using the gold standard M60 (Pelican M6 host) for over a year now and it's been great. I work half the time on grave shift in an industrial environment and I blind myself every time I try to read something in-hand.

I was impressed with the slightly warmer tint of the M60 compared to other LED lights but the M60 looks so blue compared to the M60WF! I exaggerating a little of course but I'm blown away by the warmness of the M60WF.

With the switch on Low combined with the warmness and floody beam it's perfect for reading paperwork in the dark.

On a final note, the camo anodizing is pimp!
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUMjQSsQnyw

This is a video showing how to put together the head of an MD-2 with the switch ring and then converting the Switching the MD-4's Wildcat head to the MD-2 and vice versa. There is also an MD-3 body coming out. All very nice.
 
That isn't really an issue, more the fact that there is less contact in the swith when at the momentary position for the obvious reasons.
 
On my MD2-M30 (Type III Natural) running on an 18650 I get less output when pressing the switch momentarily but I get full output on my MD2-M60 (Type II Black) running on primaries and on my MD4-Wildcat I get full output as well. I should swap the heads on my on MD2s to see if this follows the body/switch. I agree with you guys its not a big deal its just a little strange since my Surefires with clickies (E1B, L4, L5) produce full output regardless of whether I press them momentarily or click them on.
 
JJay03 said:
Is there still the issue with the momentary on not being quite as bright?
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Wow! I feel so stupid.

I actually never tried momentary with my MD2 HA w/M60W and I've had it for several months and use it everyday.

I don't have the issue that you mentioned.

Thanks for bringing it up.
 
It might just be when using the M30. Im also using a imr 18650 which im really happy with the run time.
 
Robert_M said:
I think JJay03 is correct. I only see this issue on my M30 ... my M60 and my Wildcat don't have this issue.
Click to expand...

The big difference between the M60 and M30 is current draw from the battery(s). The M60 with two CR123's may draw about 600+mA's, while the M30 with one 18650, up to 1500mA's. Any resistance issues with the tailcap switch will be magnified with the higher current draw.

Bill
 
Spitz said:
Responded (x2....forgot to ask something in the first e-mail response). I'm interested but have a few questions.
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I have not asked yet why you want a "first 100" light. There has been a bit of talk in this thread regarding the switch. As per my email , I got this light off CPF , bundled with some other stuff. I also got another MD2 off the forums - serial #251. I have stored the #0064 , used the #251.

I have now tested both and there is an obvious difference in the switch operation.
With the #64 , the switch is bouncy , ie you get a flash of light when switching on. The momentary is a bit dodgy too , as described in this thread.

So if you want a collectors item with "dodgy" switch - you have found your light!
So that's either a great sales pitch , or a warning. I'm not sure which. :thinking:
Let's just call it honesty 🙂

edit: using M60 and 18650.
 
Last edited:
Chodes said:
I have not asked yet why you want a "first 100" light. There has been a bit of talk in this thread regarding the switch. As per my email , I got this light off CPF , bundled with some other stuff. I also got another MD2 off the forums - serial #251. I have stored the #0064 , used the #251.

I have now tested both and there is an obvious difference in the switch operation.
With the #64 , the switch is bouncy , ie you get a flash of light when switching on. The momentary is a bit dodgy too , as described in this thread.

So if you want a collectors item with "dodgy" switch - you have found your light!
So that's either a great sales pitch , or a warning. I'm not sure which. :thinking:
Let's just call it honesty 🙂

edit: using M60 and 18650.
Click to expand...

If you haven't tried twisting out the switch part way and putting it back in but not real tight you might find that the "dodgy"ness goes away. I am not sure if you have to take the rubber boot off to do that, probably makes it easier.
 
I started thinking about purchasing an MD2 but I have a few questions that I hope to get answered before I make my decision.

(1) I read somewhere that Kroll switches will have a "parasitic drain" on the batteries. Is this true? If so is it only on certain model Kroll switches? Does the MD2 tailcap switch have this "parasitic drain" on the batteries?

(2) A few posts in this thread state that when the tailcap switch is used in momentary function that there is less light output compared to when the switch is fully activated. So if I use the MD2 with a Malkoff M60WL and a single lithium ion 3.7V battery should I expect that to happen?

(3) How water resistant is the MD2 (with Malkoff LED module)? Would adding a lens to the bezel make it more water resistant or does it not matter?
Is it as water resistant as a Surefire 6P?

(4) Are the aluminum walls thicker on the MD2 than a bored Surefire 6P walls would be? (For using 18650 sized battery).

Thank you for any answers.
 
My buddy WadeF put his MD2 into a sink full of water while it was turned on. The light is clearly water-resistant.
 
Answers will be shown directly under each question.



Mikellen said:
I started thinking about purchasing an MD2 but I have a few questions that I hope to get answered before I make my decision.

(1) I read somewhere that Kroll switches will have a "parasitic drain" on the batteries. Is this true? If so is it only on certain model Kroll switches? Does the MD2 tailcap switch have this "parasitic drain" on the batteries?
There is no parasitic drain. This is a simple mechanical switch, when it is off its open circuit. I have tested this.

(2) A few posts in this thread state that when the tailcap switch is used in momentary function that there is less light output compared to when the switch is fully activated. So if I use the MD2 with a Malkoff M60WL and a single lithium ion 3.7V battery should I expect that to happen? I have just tested this with a M60 that is a full power light expecting 4.5V or more to work well and be up to full power with a single 18650 battery in my MD2. I saw no change from momentary to "clicked" on on my unit. My s/n is 0122. Did not test it with a light measuring device but I believe the person who first made that complaint said it was noticeable to his eyes. I tried several times with no evidence of change. I also read that Gene had stated in one case to simply rotate the switch partly out and snug it back up and for one person that may some operation issues go away as it re-sat the actual springs that rub against the threads of the host that they make contact with. I have not seen any new threads of switch problems.

(3) How water resistant is the MD2 (with Malkoff LED module)? Would adding a lens to the bezel make it more water resistant or does it not matter?
Is it as water resistant as a Surefire 6P? The MD2 has a rubber gasket to the LED module and from the head to the body. It has been shown in photos operating underwater with no problem. It is very water resistant without a piece of glass. The Malkoff Module's front end is sealed in and waterproof on its own. It should be just fine down to the typical 1 meter used for testing of "water resistant" devices. Using a glass in front of the module might actually be worse if its not the right full diameter to have a tight fit to the rubber gasket. Plus if the glass cracks there won't be a tight seal behind the glass to the module whereas the module lense is very unlikely to be able to crack.

(4) Are the aluminum walls thicker on the MD2 than a bored Surefire 6P walls would be? (For using 18650 sized battery). Both of these flashlights have differing wall thicknesses along the length. The bored out Surefire 6P is definitely thinner in some sections than the Malkoff is. The SF is very thin where the back end threads are for the removable tail cap. The Malkoff Doesn't have a removable tail cap section and so the wall does not come down to a much thinner thread. The screw in switch in the back end is different and doesn't come to the outer perimeter of the host wall and the wall is not thinned down. Although some might argue that with the tailcap on the Surefire overall is still stronger, I would say its not. The Malkoff host wall appears to remain thicker along the entire length of the wall and the recessed area of the switch is protected. I believe it is stronger with more uniform wall thickness along the entire length to the head. I also believe from what I see comparing the 2 directly that the Head section for the Malkoff is stronger. May be a moot point. It was designed from the start to take an 18650 diameter battery and not shaved down.

Thank you for any answers.
Click to expand...
 
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