New Ra Lights products (Part 5)

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mbassoc2003 said:
Sounds like mine, and mine never bulged either. But then it didn't work, and from what people say here, it's meant to as the air trapped inside the battery compartment disipates and the seals take effect. It ellegedly then goes down, but I imagine the interior of the light still maintains a level of possitive pressure over the outside air, and that helps. So a bulge would be a good sign.

Deffinately been changes over the old faithful Novatac design. Don't know why. Can you feel the contacts through the rubber skin? On mine you could, but on the NT you can't, and the thicker rubber is most welcome. I really don't want that sort of tactile experience!

My ideal light would be an Ra with a slightly shorter body in titanium with a warm emitter up in the 140-170 range, a thicker flush tailcap and a return to the shape of the second edition NT lens down clip, all with a current Ra deeper curling, and a thick black AlTiN finish and the option to buy with no markings.
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Titanium!
 
I'll tell you by end of june when I receive my 170Cn if the new rubber boot is concave, but the one on my 140C(E) is definetely not, it is convexe.

While it is a good sign that the o-ring seals everything tight, it can prevent the light from tailstanding (I often use it at home) and when the bulge is big, it's not so easy to perform correct double or triple clicks anymore.

I hope Henry doesn't ever create a 200Cti, my wallet wouldn't survive that... 😛
 
Henk_Lu said:
I'll tell you by end of june when I receive my 170Cn if the new rubber boot is concave, but the one on my 140C(E) is definetely not, it is convexe.

While it is a good sign that the o-ring seals everything tight, it can prevent the light from tailstanding (I often use it at home) and when the bulge is big, it's not so easy to perform correct double or triple clicks anymore.

I hope Henry doesn't ever create a 200Cti, my wallet wouldn't survive that... 😛
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I saw a photo here somewhere with 4 Ra Clickys and 3 had the concave shape rubber boot and 1 had the convexe type boot.

The boot on mine doesn't ever more up or down whilst or after changing batteries. The rubber boot rests directly on the internal switch. The 'O' ring seal is nice and tight and is keeping the water out - I 've checked!

James...:thumbsup:
 
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I'd buy one if it worked and someone tested it before it was actually shipped. Maybe quality assurance or something like that? Do they have that over there?
 
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:)> said:
I'll bet they could be built if the demand was strong enough.
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Ti Clickie's are in preproduction now. The only problem is the wait, first to announce them, then when they actually ship. Drives me crazy. I sent an email to Henry on my birthday of last year and I'm still waiting.
 
Ti Clickies may have appeared sooner, but I feel safe in saying that more issues than anticipated were identified in the product. It makes no sense to release a Ti version until it's solid and they have the time and resources to create them, and test them. These would be premium and you want them to look, feel, work, and smell that way. Also with the current economic conditions and a number of other factors the demand may not be as high for a semi-custom Ti light like the Clicky as in the past.
 
If I could find some form af assurance about quality and performance, I'd drop $500-600 on a Ti Clicky without a problem. At the moment, there seems to be a lot of problems or 'glitches' with the light, and I'm not gonna invest another $500 in a Ti Clicky when I already have one faulty light in my possession, and one in for repair. I'm not stupid enough to start throwing good money after bad until there is a marked change in the manufacture and marketing of these lights.
 
In case anyone was wondering, the Clicky's auto-off feature does work in momentary mode as well. And yes, I love the Clicky enough to hold the switch for 10 minutes for useless facts like this
 
I'm a fresh owner of a Clicky Executive 140 wide beam.
I'm looking for runtimes and reviews.

Any help will be hotly welcome 🙂
 
Tested all three clickies (140,170,200) earlier at a dark trail and it was pretty awesome. The 200 especially. I wouldn't say it's tons brighter than the 170 but there is more spill and a brighter hotspot.

But when I switched on the 2100 and 3600 lumen lights the clickies were drowned out. Haha.
 
I have a EDC120T and mine had a faulty switch so I emailed Henry and he said that he'd send me a new one. It took a couple of weeks, but it finally came yesterday and I'm happy to report that my Clicky is working 100% now.

My main reason for posting this is that I wanted to report that Henry has apparently changed the design of the tail cap. Gone are the evenly spaced holes around the rim, so perhaps they are no longer press-fitted. There was speculation that the press-fitting was possibly messing up the anodizing and I'm happy to say that the anodizing on the replacement is almost perfect. Maybe the tail cap is actually threaded now and Henry just uses something like Loc-tite to secure it now. The rubber button appears to be of a different design, as well. It has a slightly taller profile and the grip texture is a little different. The last difference is a little hard to explain but I'll try. There is a change in design where the rubber button meets the base of the tail cap. With my old switch all I could see was rubber at the base--like the button had some kind of flange that seated under the metal of the tail cap. With the new one, you can see a metal ring that is the same diameter as the rubber button where the rubber joins the tail cap. Perhaps the reason for this last one is that Henry is using a different, more reliable switch from a different source that had slightly different dimensions, so thusly called for a redesign.

Disclaimer:

This is all 100% pure speculation on my part.

Anybody else care to speculate???
 
Ralls said:
I have a EDC120T and mine had a faulty switch so I emailed Henry and he said that he'd send me a new one. It took a couple of weeks, but it finally came yesterday and I'm happy to report that my Clicky is working 100% now.

My main reason for posting this is that I wanted to report that Henry has apparently changed the design of the tail cap. Gone are the evenly spaced holes around the rim, so perhaps they are no longer press-fitted. There was speculation that the press-fitting was possibly messing up the anodizing and I'm happy to say that the anodizing on the replacement is almost perfect. Maybe the tail cap is actually threaded now and Henry just uses something like Loc-tite to secure it now. The rubber button appears to be of a different design, as well. It has a slightly taller profile and the grip texture is a little different. The last difference is a little hard to explain but I'll try. There is a change in design where the rubber button meets the base of the tail cap. With my old switch all I could see was rubber at the base--like the button had some kind of flange that seated under the metal of the tail cap. With the new one, you can see a metal ring that is the same diameter as the rubber button where the rubber joins the tail cap. Perhaps the reason for this last one is that Henry is using a different, more reliable switch from a different source that had slightly different dimensions, so thusly called for a redesign.

Disclaimer:

This is all 100% pure speculation on my part.

Anybody else care to speculate???
Click to expand...

Thanks for the update but with that kind of change we really need PICS if you are able to. This sounds like a badly needed update to the tailcap.
 
callmaster said:
Tested all three clickies (140,170,200) earlier at a dark trail and it was pretty awesome. The 200 especially. I wouldn't say it's tons brighter than the 170 but there is more spill and a brighter hotspot.

But when I switched on the 2100 and 3600 lumen lights the clickies were drowned out. Haha.
Click to expand...


200...😱

Where do I order that one at?

:poke:
 
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