new set screw tool for Mag D switch

Yup. That shows my dedication to the hobby and attention to detail. Either that or it just provides further evidence that my brain does not work right/normal :crackup:

You actually cut open a brand new mag to figure out what screw was in there? :faint:
That was the first reaction I had as well....followed closely by sheer admiration at your inner geek in action 'needing to know.' See now because of your contribution, we all have absolute certainty with photos.

:bow: :bow: :bow:

This is pretty funny. I cannot think of any reason for them to change the type of setscrew to a somewhat obscure torx type that they know most people's tool set won't fit...other than a lame attempt to foil people like us wanting to mod them. I never had the hex (Allen) type strip, and have tightened/loosened hundreds of them.

I think the issue is something else. On The High Road Forum ( mostly about guns) a poster had issues with several Mag lites all new that did not work. intermintent light and such and a used one that fell and quit working but was having issues as well before the fall.
I suggested that the issue might be the switch had come loose and that he tighten the switch. I explained how in detail.
Later the poster found that this was indeed the issue all along and the light works just fine now and he posted a great big Thank You.

Torx's were developed as the screws heads were failing before reaching the desired torque needed on aircraft screws is my understanding.
Torx and Torx Plus allowed the screws to be tightened without the tool walking out of the screw and destroying the head. This has been a widespread change in industries all over. I guess Mag Lite just finally got with the program.

Perhaps that is a more generous and accurate explanation. However, this scenario is why Maglite made the internal circular slot and retaining ring clip to block forward advancement, and punched/drilled an indented hole for the conical setscrew to fix into. If they had such a concern as you suggest, they could have put a dab of loctite on the threads.

I can only go by my own experience, and some of my mags have had the same switch assembly removed and tightened as many as 25-30 times without ever stripping the hex wrench threads. I have never had one come loose or lose contact with the aluminum wall.

Then there is all the negative historical baggage of how Maglite has aggressively sued so many as a regular business practice, the telephone conversations about this issue I described earlier, the complete lack of providing a torx key to customers when they knew full well that none of the torx wrenches people have would fit, none available for sale to anyone when asked...and upon being disconnected after the fundamental information was provided, the lady calling me back and quite rudely letting me know she had my name and number from caller ID, and wanted my Maglite serial number.

But, perhaps you are correct in your interpretation.
 
It seems like they have stopped providing switches and repair parts and want you to ship a 15-30 dollar light to them for repair now. With today's shipping rates that make no sense.
 
At least in the short term you can buy the switch assembly for "D" size lights online.. Here for lights with the "D" in the serial number - note photo still points to the old switch, not the new one, and that it includes the old style hex key!:
http://www.zbattery.com/D-Cell-Switch-Replacement-D-In-Serial-Number?sc=7&category=97920


The same place no longer carries/shows the switch for lights without the "D" in the serial number.

I tried that and Zbattery does not have them in stock per the email they sent me.
 
Could you very carefully stick a small drill bit down the switch assembly (with a diameter just smaller than the torx set screw) and just drill out the thing, and with a little force, push the switch assembly out from the front end? Would it be possible to do this without damaging the threads of the switch assembly and buying a new set screw with a standard head from a hardware store? I have not run into one of these abominations yet, but I'm sure I will in no time!
 
Could you very carefully stick a small drill bit down the switch assembly (with a diameter just smaller than the torx set screw) and just drill out the thing, and with a little force, push the switch assembly out from the front end? Would it be possible to do this without damaging the threads of the switch assembly and buying a new set screw with a standard head from a hardware store? I have not run into one of these abominations yet, but I'm sure I will in no time!
Even without the proper torx wrench it's easy to remove the set screw. See post 15.
 
I tried that method and it screwed up the plastic components of the switch.
How exactly? If a 2mm allen wrench is used for the tool it should fit through the switch without engaging the plastic parts and only engage the metal set screw itself. There should be no risk to the plastic parts.
 
More photos of the "problem" with the wide shaft on most all T8 tools.

I ordered and received two supposedly thin shaft T8 L hex tools, based on the photos on McMaster's catalog. Unfortunately, as others have mentioned including myself, the shaft is the problem, as it is wider than the actual tip. I simply use my grinder to turn down the shaft until they fit on the small hole in the switch - nothing pretty, but quick and effective.

Close up of the "step" in the shaft that causes the problem:
DSCF2804_crop.JPG



Here in the photo you have (top to bottom): Original screw hex wrench, grind T8 hex wrench, original T8 hex wrench not yet ground:
DSCF2804.JPG



Here on this second shot, from left to right: original screw hex wrench, grind T8 hex wrench, grind T8 hex wrench:
DSCF2805.JPG
 
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You are the king of this thread :bow:

You should seriously sell those, i'd buy one. Currently im using a sanded down 2mm allen wrench to ghetto-rig the screw.
 
What a stupid thing for Mag to do. Doesn't make any logical sense, unless you are a lawyer.
 
How exactly? If a 2mm allen wrench is used for the tool it should fit through the switch without engaging the plastic parts and only engage the metal set screw itself. There should be no risk to the plastic parts.

A 2mm allen wrench will fit the new switch opening as well but not so with the T8 Torx. So you have to go to a bit bigger than a 2mm allen. That caused the plastic switch parts to stick because the inner plastic flexes and then binds vice cutting cleanly. Somebody a little more meticulous might have better luck than I did.

I went with the same method wquiles used, made a T8 Torx smaller in diameter and now they are no problem.
 
You are the king of this thread :bow:

You should seriously sell those, i'd buy one. Currently im using a sanded down 2mm allen wrench to ghetto-rig the screw.

It would not surprise me if someone modified a Torx for sale with the expressed purpose of being able to fit and remove Maglite's new set screw, thereby depriving them of their repair fee, that they would sue the individual. Never mind if they would prevail, it is the "wear you down with legal expenses" strategy they would perhaps intend.

Of course if some Chinese company did it (as they always do)--beyond the reach of USA law, that would be ideal. In the meantime, it is easy to do what wquiles did with an electric grinding wheel, or Dremel.
 
If it helps in the search...the orange T8 flag show in my photo (post #74)...as far as I can tell, the shaft is the same diameter as the tool tip. There's two imprints molded into the handle; SFS and SWISS.
 
Would those in your picture be these, right?
link ...

Of course the trick is to see who we can buy these from and buy one to try out 😀
Looks like you found the source Will 🙂

McMaster sells the fingertip t-handle style, and the price is very reasonable (between $2 and $3 each).

If you call McMaster and ask them to verify, I'm confident they will do a bin pull, and let you know if the shaft diameter is equal to the tip diameter.
 
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I found a 7 pc. folding Torx driver set that works. It is a Chesco model 88056 with sizes from T-6 to T-10,T15 and T-20. The UPC number is 038548880563.

Updated on 3-10-2011: There are 2 different Chesco 88056 tools



:thumbsup:The 'good' Chesco set is 3" long closed, has slotted screws holding it together and has the Chesco name stamped on the right side. The T8 works on a 3D Mag LED.


:thumbsdowThe set I bought from Ebay is 3 5/8" long, has Allen screws holding it together and has the Chesco name stamped on the left. This one does not fit.
 
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In the local hobby shop I noticed a 2mm Flat blade screw driver selling for $3 so I bought it to try. works like a champ and then I change the set screw to an allen head.

The maker of this screwdriver is dynamite and the part number is DYN2829. The have a website (www.dynamiterc.com) if anyone is interested.
 
Looks like you found the source Will 🙂

McMaster sells the fingertip t-handle style, and the price is very reasonable (between $2 and $3 each).

If you call McMaster and ask them to verify, I'm confident they will do a bin pull, and let you know if the shaft diameter is equal to the tip diameter.

Well, I though I did find the source, but no - going home without the trophy :crazy:

I bought five more "samples" from McMaster, which per the photos/descriptions all had a good chance of being narrow enough. Some of them had round shafts, some hex shafts, some supported Torx only, some supported Torx and Torx Plus, etc.:
DSCF2837.JPG



New ones on top. Older, ground ones bottom:
DSCF2838.JPG



Close-up. NONE of them fit :ohgeez:
DSCF2839.JPG
 
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