New Surefire E2DL 200 LUMENS?!?!

[marcos100]

I'm new in this flashlight thing and I'm thinking on this or the lx2, but I don't know how the low output compares.
I can't find how useful is 5 against 15 lumens. I don't want to throw 200 lumen on a sleeping friend when looking for something in a dark room.

What I can do with 5 and 15 lumens?

Thanks

 

[beaniecap]

Part of me wants to believe that it is just a spec correction. But I picked up my E2DL back in July 09 and compared to my X300 it doesn't seem as hot. And the X300 is supposed to be 10 lumens dimmer @110L than the E2DL @120L. So I'm not sure what to think.

However if the E2DL really has been upgraded to 200 lumens with the same length of run time I'll seriously be considering picking one up.:candle:

 

[njet212]

OK here's the my rough test result between my E2DL Blister package rated 120 lumens VS LX2 Lumamax. See post #124

I use Krisbow Lux Meter to measure the flashlights output, it's provide the measurement only on Lux / Candlepower. The maximum measurement for this Luxmeter is 2000 Lux ( 185 lumens ), so this is will not so accurate data but it's just give idea about the output between these 2 lights. The conversion i use is www.unitconversion.org


The distance between Luxmeter and The Flashlight is 62 cm ( less than that the Luxmeter cannot read the flahlight output )


LX2
High = 1993 Lux / 185 Lumens
Low = 154 Lux / 14 Lumens

E2DL ( Blister Pack rated 120 Lumens packaging )
High = 1934 Lux/ 180 Lumens
Low = 101 Lux / 9 Lumens


So this 2 light has nearly the same output on High.

 

[Patriot]

We sell SF where I work, so I took my meter there today. I tested 2 new LX2's my own current LX2 and 3 new E2DL's on the same set of batteries.

Lux results of informal bounce test


LX2
341 (my current LX2)
346
358


E2DL
332
342
351


If I had to guess, these two lights seem to possess the same electronics and drive settings.

 

[njet212]

@Patriot:

Which E2DL did you refer to on your post ? Is it the blister pack rated 120 lumens or is it the newest version box pack rated 200 lumens ?

 

[Patriot]

@Patriot:

Which E2DL did you refer to on your post ? Is it the blister pack rated 120 lumens or is it the newest version box pack rated 200 lumens ?

Sorry, they're the newest version box pack rated at 200L.

 

[Henk_Lu]

FWIW, today I checked three E2DL's for tailcap current draw on high and low.

Sureprise, surprise, the oldest one from a 120 lumen marked blister pack was 440 mA on high, 20 mA on low. The two newest ones included one from a blister pack, and another in the latest box pack and they drew 710 mA and 740 mA on high, 20 mA and 30 mA on low. The same body and pair of cells were used for all measurments. My meter only gives resolution to 10 mA, so the variation in low is likely not as dramatic as 30 vs. 20 mA.

Based on an admitedly small sample size the newer E2DL's seem to be driven harder than the original version. As and aside, a single level KX2C pulled 840 mA.

Paladin

I just measured my E2DL, which is a 120 Lumen model according to the seller (I got no packaging).

On High, it starts at 760mAh ang goes rapidly to 800mAh where it stabilises. On Low, it takes 30mAh.

I checked the cells, they currently read 2,93 Volt while a new Surefire reads 3,25 Volt. So, the draw on high should be around 685 - 720 mAh.

Probably I got a pretty new old model! :wave:

 

[Chao]

I just found this note from Brightguy webpage:

"Note: SureFire is using up old packaging literature that has the old lumen rating of 120 lumens. You can be assured your E2D LED Defender is the newest model with 200 lumens by checking the serial number. If your serial number starts with the letter B, you have a 200 lumen model."

So seems like the serial number starts with latter A can be the 200 lumen model, and starts with letter B is sure the new 200 lumen model!

 

[SunStar]

I just measured my E2DL (120 lumen variety) that I purchased in December '08. Its serial is A17729. According to my multimeter, it measures better than 800 mA on high and 20-30 mA on low. It seems to settle between 830-840 mA on high after several seconds. It does not disappoint and seems to be as bright if not slightly brighter than my Malkoff M60 / C2.

I'm curious how the amperage draw will compare with the E1B variants (80 v. 110 lumens).

I think Al is probably right in that the average supplied by SF has now achieved a steady state of 200 lumens with nominal variation.

 

[nitebrite]

hi,

i was wondering if there is likely to be a large difference in visible brightness if one was to purchase an e2dl today vs. one purchased in november '08.

i was also wondering why they switched to borofloat. i read some posts here that stated that borofloat and pyrex are the same thing from different manufacturers.

can i tell how bright my e2dl is with a voltmeter? i have read about that here but i do not know how to use the voltmeter while the light is assembled.

so unless i just want another one(which i don't) am i going to see any large performance gain if i get another now?

edit: mine has an emitter that looks exactly like the one in post #194, if that helps determine how many lumens it might be. it is very bright imo.

thanks

 

[Search]

My E2DL was made before they upgraded them 🙁

... Sooo I put an XPG in it :devil:


I'll raise your 200 lumen E2DLs with my single mode E2DL 😗

 

[nitebrite]

i am sure yours is much brighter but i was wondering about the stock ones. my questions are on page 7.

thanks

 

[Search]

i am sure yours is much brighter but i was wondering about the stock ones. my questions are on page 7.

thanks

Sorry, I was talking crap, not speaking to anyone specifically.

hi,

i was wondering if there is likely to be a large difference in visible brightness if one was to purchase an e2dl today vs. one purchased in november '08.

Yes and no. You probably will see a small difference, but let me stress the word small. It isn't going to be a night and day type of thing.

i was also wondering why they switched to borofloat. i read some posts here that stated that borofloat and pyrex are the same thing from different manufacturers.

I believe borofloat allows more light to pass through, while retaining more strength. Someone will have to answer this one. I've never put any thought into lens.

can i tell how bright my e2dl is with a voltmeter? i have read about that here but i do not know how to use the voltmeter while the light is assembled.

I've got an easier way. Look at the serial number.

"A" s/n = 120 lumens, "B" s/n = 200 lumens

It will either start with an A or a B.

so unless i just want another one(which i don't) am i going to see any large performance gain if i get another now?

You might call them, and tell them you have an older head and see if they will let you buy the new one. Being SureFire, they might surprise you and just give it to you. However, their customer service is tier one. I'm sure you can buy the head without buying a new light somehow if you ask the right person :thinking:

edit: mine has an emitter that looks exactly like the one in post #194, if that helps determine how many lumens it might be. it is very bright imo.

thanks

:nana:

 

[nitebrite]

actually there were "a" serial numbers in early 2009 that had 200 lumens.

a friend has a light meter and has the one in the 200 lumen packaging with the "b" serial.

we tested them today. his puts out 186 lumens mine puts out 174. the reading was in lux of course but he did the conversion. well, not much difference to answer my own question. i can also gather since there is not much difference i don't have to get it just for the borofloat either.

the intresting thing is the new one is not at, or over 200 lumens. surefire always has been known to underate lights. it was all the other companies that overated them. i guess some of them do put out 200 or over but not many of them from what i have read. it is not worth it to me if it probably is going to put out 10 or so more lumens. i like their lights but this one i hardly use.

thanks

 

[Bullzeyebill]

actually there were "a" serial numbers in early 2009 that had 200 lumens.

a friend has a light meter and has the one in the 200 lumen packaging with the "b" serial.

we tested them today. his puts out 186 lumens mine puts out 174. the reading was in lux of course but he did the conversion. well, not much difference to answer my own question. i can also gather since there is not much difference i don't have to get it just for the borofloat either.

the intresting thing is the new one is not at, or over 200 lumens. surefire always has been known to underate lights. it was all the other companies that overated them. i guess some of them do put out 200 or over but not many of them from what i have read. it is not worth it to me if it probably is going to put out 10 or so more lumens. i like their lights but this one i hardly use.

thanks

A simple way to measure output of different flashlight for comparison purposes, particularly those with the same beam shape and make, is to use bounce with a light meter, or luxmeter. Gives comparisons only, not lumens. Bounce readings need to be taken in a fairly small space area without any ambient light present, like a small bathroom without a window. If you are pretty sure of the lumen rating of a given flashlight you can sort of extimate lumens when comparing to other lights. Not perfect, but some of our good testers here on CPF use this method.

Bill

 

[pm91]

I didn't know the E2DL was their best-selling personal defense flashlight.

 

[Size15's]

actually there were "a" serial numbers in early 2009 that had 200 lumens.

a friend has a light meter and has the one in the 200 lumen packaging with the "b" serial.

we tested them today. his puts out 186 lumens mine puts out 174. the reading was in lux of course but he did the conversion. well, not much difference to answer my own question. i can also gather since there is not much difference i don't have to get it just for the borofloat either.

the intresting thing is the new one is not at, or over 200 lumens. surefire always has been known to underate lights. it was all the other companies that overated them. i guess some of them do put out 200 or over but not many of them from what i have read. it is not worth it to me if it probably is going to put out 10 or so more lumens. i like their lights but this one i hardly use.

thanks

It is not possible to do "the conversion" to get lumens from a lux measurement from a light meter. You need a calibrated integrating sphere, correctly set-up and operated to be sure of the lumen output.

Based on the lux measurements you state I'm not sure you can be confident that the two lights are actually different.

 

[nitebrite]

i don't know then. i guess he didn't know that much about it.

i looked at the picture here of the old vs. new and they look about the same. i take it all of the old ones put out a lot more than 120 lumens. so with out actually having any way to measure i am still wondering if a new one will be very noticeably brighter. mine is very bright. simply shining my friends new one and my own one on the wall from 13 feet away i couldn't really pick one as being much brighter. they both had fresh sf batteries. also here there was a post that measured a new one at 1934 lux/180 lumens. i wonder how njet212 did that conversion. i take it you cannot do a conversion in that manner. i think if the ones in late 2008 were putting out high 170's to mid 180's there is not much noticeable difference than. there was another old post here where a very old one put out 210. i wish i had some way to measure them properly.

i am more concerned about what i can actually see rather than numbers though.
i am also still wondering why the borofloat is better(edit: i i see borofloat offers more light transmission than pyrex). i would like to get one if it is a much brighter/better light than mine but if it is not i don't really need two.


size15's, do you think if i get one now i will notice it is much brighter? maybe my friends was not a good example. the lux readings on ours were within about 60 lux of each other.

thanks

 

[Size15's]

size15's, do you think if i get one now i will notice it is much brighter? maybe my friends was not a good example. the lux readings on ours were within about 60 lux of each other.

Since you don't appear to be an 'early adopter' having an E2DL from the original release, I am not convinced that a current E2DL will obviously 'brighter' than one from before SureFire put a line in the sand.

Remember that SureFire seem to be taking the approach to actually update their ratings if necessary, as a result of testing production samples more frequently.
In the past SureFire stuck with their inital rating even when performance increased through a general improvement in the LEDs being used.

As for lux measurements - there are so many variables uncontrolled and unknown that even as a comparative rating they are weak-to-useless data.
Unless the measurements were double or ten times different... In which case there shouldn't be much need to take the measurement in the first place because one should be obviously brighter than the other.

Al :shrug:

 

[symes]

You know this looked attractive until I read the operating mode thing...

Don't like that the first press on gives maximum output then have to press again to get low output... thought their older approach was better or to have a collar like the U2.

I guess because it is pitched at the self defense market they are thinking "always go bright first"....but I love control - I want to be able to choose that!

Now if they can just make the LX2 as short as the L4 so it first the small pocket of my 5.11s we'll be good to go!

Simon