New Titanium Fenix

Candle Power Flashlight Forum

Help Support CPF:

I just got mine.. Have been fondling it for a hour or so. Nice looking light.
It came in a nice gold box.
Pretty bright.. Floody beam with a slight donut. Nice white tint.
Will remain a shelf queen probably.
 
Got mine. Top-notch build quality. Expect decent run times with Fenix efficient circuitry. Only gripes are that Fenix still needs a lower low, and RCR123 appears to put the light in direct drive so you lose the med and low levels. I do think because of its size it will go in the EDC rotation. Oh, and I've already given it the "brushed aluminum" finish 🙂
 
Dobbler said:
Only gripes are that Fenix still needs a lower low, and RCR123 appears to put the light in direct drive so you lose the med and low levels.
Click to expand...


Too bad the levels are lost with the RCR123. It essentially relegates it to primary use only, which is fine if your not a fan of rechargeable.
 
Patriot said:
Too bad the levels are lost with the RCR123. It essentially relegates it to primary use only, which is fine if your not a fan of rechargeable.
Click to expand...

Bought it as an EDC candidate which means runtime is more important (to me) than brightness. It's not that much brighter on RCR anyway.
 
MattK said:
With pretty much every Fenix we've tested if you use the 3V RCR123A's you get all of the output levels.
Click to expand...

With the PD10 Titanium the low levels start to change when battery voltage is above 3 volt and medium is stable until 3.5 volt (At least on my copy of the light). This means that a 3.2 or 3.3 volt battery will show 3 levels, but the low level will be a bit to high.
These new emitters probably has a lower Vf, i.e. they goes into direct drive at a lower voltage.
 
I compared my mini 123 to my Fenix Ti and the mini was clearly brighter. Not dramatically so, but easily visible to the eye.
 
MattK said:
With pretty much every Fenix we've tested if you use the 3V RCR123A's you get all of the output levels.
Click to expand...
Most of the ones I've tested lose the low mode and is at the same output as the medium level.

I've pretty much purchased every single "3v rcr123a" and tested them all. They are NOT up to snuff. There is VERY good reason I do not carry them. Let me educate you.

1) They're really not 3v's. They're actually 4.2v without load (so they will fry low power electronics - i.e. cameras that use cr123a). Under load they are 3.3v to 3.5v. Still not good. They'll blow some of your expensive incandescents.

2) They actually use an LDO circuit to "regulate" the voltage under load. This means it simply acts like a variable resistor. So imagine, the LDO is actually dropping up to 1v. At higher currents that's a lot of energy wasted! I've pulled out cells after being under heavy load and the battery is hotter than the light!

3) Their capacity is abysmal at best. They are as bad as 1/2 the capacity of the awrcr123's that I sell and as bad as 1/4 the capacity of lithium cr123a primaries.

I've done my homework and would not carry these at their current state. That would be a dis-service to my clients. I'm not sure why other vendors are still selling them :shrug:
 
Hey David, what do you know about AW's LiFePO4's? The specs say they are 3.2v, and AW even responded to my question in cpfmp, saying that these would be suitable for use in this Fenix PD10 Titan which takes 3V CR123A's.

I hope they work alright... already have some AW LiFePO4's being shipped to me. Of course I already know about the lower capacity compared to primaries.
 
madmook said:
Hey David, what do you know about AW's LiFePO4's? The specs say they are 3.2v, and AW even responded to my question in cpfmp, saying that these would be suitable for use in this Fenix PD10 Titan which takes 3V CR123A's.

I hope they work alright... already have some AW LiFePO4's being shipped to me. Of course I already know about the lower capacity compared to primaries.
Click to expand...
I've been playing with them since 2007. as you mentioned 1) they are lower capacity and 2) they are actually a much safer technology
 
headophile said:
:laughing:

fenix still has dibs on the design though imo :nana:

personally, i don't like knurling at all, especially on small 'bling' lights which i like to be as sleek as possible. i like jetbeam's e3p for this reason. too bad they don't offer it in titanium.
Click to expand...
The E3P is a good couple inches longer than the PD10, and since the PD10 is a twisty, you really do need something to make it easy to grip.
 
I got mine on Friday, and promptly tossed it in my pocket with my keys. Then I decided I should take some pictures of it:

CIMG3739.jpg


CIMG3736.jpg


CIMG3738.jpg


CIMG3740.jpg


CIMG3741.jpg


CIMG3734.jpg


+
Titanium
Really shiny
No strobe
R5 LED is nice and bright
Seems to have good heat conduction
Threads are not titanium-on-titanium, so regular grease will work fine

-
Raw-machined finish would hide scratches better than polished finish
Inductor makes a hissing sound on highest setting when battery wears down a little
Threads aren't terribly precise, so it needs a couple of grease changes during break-in
Threads on head are made of aluminum and need careful breaking-in, whereas brass is much more tolerant of grit
Relatively soft titanium alloy -- I dropped it on a tile floor and it dented, whereas my Haiku survived hitting concrete with just a scratch

All in all I'd say it's a good starter titanium light, good for learning why people like titanium for this sort of application, and being current-controlled, it should run for a long time before needing a battery change.
 
4sevens said:
I've been playing with them since 2007. as you mentioned 1) they are lower capacity and 2) they are actually a much safer technology
Click to expand...


Yup. The only use I have for them nowadays is in a FLuPIC'd customized SSC P4 single-cell nightstand light in moonlight mode.


On topic, I'm with MrGman - too much $ for what the Fenix offers.
 
fyrstormer said:
Uh, no. I want titanium because it will never corrode or tarnish and I can beat the hell out of it and it will still look good, and while you might be able to get the same with stainless steel, titanium weighs less. A hundred years from now some kid could find this in the woods, put a new battery in it, and it will work.

Most things that are made out of steel should be made out of titanium. In pretty much all applications it's a better material to work with, and there's more of it in Earth's crust than iron, interestingly.
Click to expand...
I was going to drop the topic, but then I see this. So in what app is Ti a better material in?
 
Henk_Lu said:
Yeah, that looks surprisingly for sure! :huh:

Don't you have a Quark MiNi to compare? THAT would be interesting, showdown!!!
Click to expand...

The PD10 ti is no thrower, it produces a little white wall. 🙂

Unfortunately i have no Quark Mini to compare. But as of the design and
build quality i like the Fenix much more (i already had some Quarks in my
hands...🙂). And for its size, i really bright! :devil:
 
toby_pra said:
The PD10 ti is no thrower, it produces a little white wall. 🙂

Unfortunately i have no Quark Mini to compare. But as of the design and
build quality i like the Fenix much more (i already had some Quarks in my
hands...🙂). And for its size, i really bright! :devil:
Click to expand...

Indeed. And after a few years away from the hobby, I have only this to say:
having a low-serial numbered light is kinda cool. 😉
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top