New Tooling mods

[cmacclel]

Don't you hate it when your looking forward to new tooling and poop just don't work!

I bought a Dorian 5c collet holder for my BXA post in order to hold boring bars, reamers, drills, ETC. I mount it up and low and behold that I can not get it centered even with the tool holder adjustment nut bottomed out!

Bust out the mill and a Hanita AlTIN coated carbide roughing cutter and watch the sparks a fly! Did I mention the Dorian holder was HARD!!!

Also it seems my 5/8ths Lyndex collet is bad as it holds my 5/8 boring bar SLOPPY 🙁 Figures the cheap china R8 collet holds in nicely.


Chuck out my new Pencil Sharpener

http://www.vimeo.com/3352809

Problem

Solution 🙂

Finished

 

[precisionworks]

Did I mention the Dorian holder was HARD!!!

+1

Both Dorian & Aloris are as tough as they come, much like milling hardened 4340 chrome moly. Around 50 to 100 SFPM is top speed, with a tiny chip load per tooth - .0005". If you can find a 60° helix, they shear the material better than the normal 45° helix.

Looks good:thumbsup:

What type of tool black did you use?

 

[cmacclel]

What type of tool black did you use?

I originally tried some gun blue/black stuff I had that worked perfectly last week on a barrel I threaded but it didn't work well on the holder it just made it look like it was flame hardened. The black is duracoat dabbed on.

Now if I only knew how to turn the handles on the MILL 🙁 I guess it comes with experience....not going the wrong way that is 🙂
Mac

 

[65535]

Hell Mac with a CNC lathe and a mill you should be able to make your own toolholders. Get yourself a dovetail cutter and you'll be set.

 

[gadget_lover]

Now if I only knew how to turn the handles on the MILL 🙁 I guess it comes with experience....not going the wrong way that is 🙂
Mac

After a while it becomes second nature.

BUT....

You still find yourself occasionally doing the wrong handle the wrong way.

This is a great place to use the table stops. They restrict the area that the table can move (without forcing it) so you have some warning that you are about to make your nice square pocket sort of multi-lobed.

For those that have not milled, a pocket like that in hard steel will take multiple passes, and each pass has three sides where you can overshoot the limits of the pocket. You end up with a small (or large) divot out of the side. The same thing happens when you get to the side and move it just 1/2 tool diameter to start the next run BUT accidentally go the wrong direction.


Your work looks real good Mac. You are doing well.


Daniel

 

[precisionworks]

each pass has three sides where you can overshoot the limits

I have never done that on a mill (that had a DRO)

It's pretty easy to do when you're counting turns. When you make a mistake using the dials, the error is usually one full dial revolution. And that always happens on the final cut.

 

[cmacclel]

I have never done that on a mill (that had a DRO)

I have though I have to admit that was the first time I ever milled a pocket 🙂 I guess I need to figure how to really work that DRO some day.

Mac

 

[precisionworks]

There are a couple of way to help stay within a desired shape, like a pocket.

If the material is shiny (Ti, Al, steel, etc.), coat it with your favorite color Dykem

Blue is my choice, but red is about as popular. Use a sharp scribe to outline the pocket, but keep the scribe line about 1 mm beyond where the end mill will cut, otherwise the scribe line gets milled away.

On dark materials, like the toolholder, Dykem does not show up. There you'll want to use a silver artist's pencil (aka welder's pencil):

Again, stay just outside the pocket when marking.

I've seen a lot of old timers use one of these methods to keep from messing up.