Newbie, MagCharger Questions

[relic1300]

First, I'd like apologize both for starting a thread that I know has been covered and for putting it in what may not be the best place. I've searched, but perhaps I am search-inept. The one post I found on disassembly was rather vague without the pictures that have been long gone.

Yesterday, a police officer gave a very well used MagCharger to my boss to do with what he wishes... I think he bought a new Stinger from us. Being the resident "flashlight guy" (I don't really know much, but I know a lot more than the other folks there), my boss offered it to me. Now I'm trying to figure out what to do with it.

All I know is that it was given to us without a battery pack. Whether or not the light is operational is unknown. The switch feels pretty loose, but I'm comparing that to a 3D Mag. I've never played with a MagCharger before.

Now the questions:
How do I remove the switch assembly to ohm it out and what should I get as acceptable readings?

What are the specs on the battery pack? Voltage? Type of cells?

I've been toying with the idea of building a Mag85 for some time now, but with lots of other things going on, I just haven't gotten around to it. I'm wondering if I should just use this as parts or a host for that. Opinions?

By the way, wasn't the MagCharger lens supposed to be glass? This one is definitely plastic. I'm thinking that the glass lens was broken and replaced with one from a D cell.

Thanks in advance.
-Tony

 

[kts]

I got a stock MagCharger, it got a glass lens, its MUCH more powerful than any of maglites other models.

Its also HAIII compared to a standard mags HAII.

With a proper focused bulb it will easy throw 250M.+

Cant help you with Mag85, but Im sure you can find some threads in here that will help you with the build.

 

[relic1300]

Yeah, I've read a ton on the Mag85s, I just wondered if it would be better to get it working as a stock MagCharger or if I should just hack it up. After all, it was freebie, which would make me feel a bit better about it.

 

[metlarules]

The battery is a 6volt pack of 5 1/2d cells and is available herehttp://www.cases4less.com/maglite/detail_mag_recharge.html.

One of the easiest mods to do is to put in a welch allyn 1160.Use a mica shield in between the bulb and socket. You can also use a Phillips 5761 but that will require you to enlarge the bulb opening in the reflector.
There is also led assembles like thesehttp://www.batteryjunction.com/tetl3waluwhl.html
http://www.batteryjunction.com/magcharger-tle-300mr.html

 

[tekguy]

first put a battery and a bulb in it and see if it works. if it aint broke dont fix it. try the terralux tle300mr led upgrade from battery junction. probably the best thhing you can do while keeping the same configuration

 

[relic1300]

Thanks. I'll see if we have a handful 1/2 Ds rolling around the tech drawer at work and check if the light works before I do anything else.

If it doesn't, is anyone able to tell me how to get the switch out? The more I play with it, the more I find it suspect (very loose and sticks).

 

[StandardBattery]

amazon has the pack for $19
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N9ES/?tag=cpf0b6-20

but maybe you can wire up any 6v pack or powersupply just for testing. That led drop in looks cool.

 

[metlarules]

If you just want to test it to see if it is fuctioning properly you can put in 3 d cells. The bulb will be dimmer but you can at least see if everything is in working order.

 

[gswitter]

If it doesn't, is anyone able to tell me how to get the switch out?

My MC's not as old as yours, and I don't know if they've changed anything over the years, but here's what I do...

1. Unscrew and remove bezel/lens/reflector
2. Remove bulb
3. Slide head down over body to remove (not really necessary, but it helps to have it out of the way for the next step)
4. Unscrew upper portion of body (with the switch) from the lower at the charge ring junction
5. Press switch button all the way in while pushing on empty bulb socket to slide switch out of the body

Getting the switch back in can be a little tricky - you'll probably need something thin to depress the button as you slide the switch into the body. That, however, is the only tool you'll need for disassembly/reassembly.

 

[relic1300]

Thanks again, I'll have to check it out a little later. We might actually have five 1/2 D cells lying around at work that I could test with... we build custom battery packs.

 

[Gunner12]

I'd try using 3D batteries first to see if the switch and the bulb work. If they do, then make or get the battery pack for it.

You can also swap in a Welch allyn 1160 or 1111 for more output.

...Its also HAIII compared to a standard mags HAII...

Arrg(sorry, I always have to correct this when I see it), No such thing as HA II. HA doesn't mean Anodizing. HA means Type III anodizing and only type III andodizing, which is tougher then the Type II anodizing, which is not HA II. HA II doesn't exist.

 

[relic1300]

I didn't have to buy anything to test it out... we had a box of 2500mAh 1/2 Ds and I just welded some tabs on them (only takes a couple minutes) and popped it in to see if it would work... it does! Even with my discount it came to a little over $10, but at least I had it in-hand and I know the quality of the cells. Now I just have to pick up a new lens for it and a couple spare bulbs, and I'll probably keep it stock at least until this pack I built wears out.

Any recommendations on an aftermarket lens or should I just order one from Mag?

 

[offroadcmpr]

Borofloat and UCL lens' are the most commonly used

 

[relic1300]

Can anyone point me towards a reliable source for 1160s? I'm having more trouble finding them than I thought.

Also perhaps a source for sheets of Mica shield. Is this a necessity when running an 1160?

 

[LIGHTSMAD]

looking at those pics i would certainly buy a new flashlight!

but anyway,

if changing to these super bulbs wa1161 5761 ect.....change the socket to a ceramic slug from five mega...cause if you are running the mag for long periods...you may melt the original plastic socket!

 

[relic1300]

The flashlight was given to me. It was an officer's duty light.

Besides, it's got a new battery pack, I'm ordering a new lens... there are only a few more parts in the light that could possibly need replacing before it would be a brand new light, save for exterior aesthetics.

As for changing the socket, it probably wouldn't be used for extended periods. I have a re-branded Nuwai (I think that's right) 3 watt Luxeon that is typically the first light that I reach for. After that I have two Luxeon 3D Mags, so at this point I'm treating this one like a project/toy. If I end up melting the socket, I'm not any worse off than if I replaced it to begin with.

 

[gswitter]

litho123 has 1160's for sale in the Marketplace, and he includes a mica shield.

 

[relic1300]

Hey, thanks for the heads up! I just ordered a few.

 

[relic1300]

The pack I built, fresh off the charger reads about 7v. Can anyone tell me if that's going to be a problem for the 1160?

 

[gswitter]

Should be fine. In LuxLuthor's Destructive Incan Bulb Tests thread, the 1160 didn't instaflash until 7.8v.